1. Climbing category: high-altitude technical.
2. Climbing area: South-Eastern Pamir, Yazgulem Ridge, Khovraz-Dara valley.
3. Summit: Pik Kholodnaya Stena (5959) via the right bastion of the north face.
4. Assumed category: 5B (first ascent).
5. Route characteristics:
   • combined route
   • total elevation gain: 1500 m
   • wall section elevation gain: 1100 m
   • ridge elevation gain: 400 m
   • total route length: 3770 m

Passport

I. Class of first ascents 2. Pamir, Havraz-Dara valley 3. Peak "Kholodnaya Stena" via the bastions of the left part of the East wall 4. Assumed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain 1619 meters. Average slope up to the ridge — 68°. Average slope up to the summit — 65°. Average slope of sections R23–R24 — 85°. R42–R48 — 85°. 6. Piton placement

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent area — Yazgulem Range, Central Pamir.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Kholodnaya Stena, 5959 m. Eastern wall (right part).
4. Expected difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1700 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty level — 1299 m, average steepness — 80°
6. Number of driven pitons: for belaying, for creating artificial footholds: rock — 388/17

Passport

Ascent Details

1. Ascent type: High-altitude technical climb
2. Ascent region: Central Pamir, Maly Yazgulem ridge, Khavraz-Dara valley
3. Peak: Dik Cold Wall, 5959 m, via the northwest route
4. Anticipated difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 1520 m length of 3rd category terrain — 420 m, average steepness — 28°
6. Pitons used: for protection: rock — 15, camming devices — 11, ice screws — 3, bolted pitons — none. for creating artificial holds — none.

REPORT on the first ascent of v. Kholodnaya Stena via the northwestern ridge, category 3B Group composition:

• Leader:
• Participants: Ponomarchuk V.S., CMS; Matveenko V.M., MS; Ivanov N.R., CMS; Krasnukhin L.I., CMS; Nastobursky A.N., CMS; Kapustina T.D., 1st sports category. 1980

Brief geographical overview

Passport

1. High-altitude technical class 2. Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge, Tanimass-3 lake area 3. Peak "6113" via the right part of the northern wall 4. Proposed — Category 5B difficulty, first ascent 5. Elevation gain — 1200 m, wall section length — 1240 m, length of sections with Category 5B difficulty — 310 m, average steepness of the main (wall) part of the route — 64° (5050–6050 m) 6. Pitons driven:

53a

USSR Alpine Championship

High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category

Report

on the first ascent of Peak 6113 m via the right part of the north face by the Ukrainian "Burevestnik" Sports Club team Team leader: I.V. Bozhko Coach: A.M. Bychek 1985, Ukrainian Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Club 252000, Kiev, Vorovsky St., 30-g, tel. 26-37-16

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical climb
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range, Tanymas-3 glacier.
3. Peak 6113 m, center of the North face.
4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference 1200 m, length of the wall part of the route 1450 m. Length of sections with 5B category of difficulty - 620 m, 6B category of difficulty - 575 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 68° (4900–6060), including 6B category of difficulty 80° (5420–5970).
6. Pitons driven: | rock | nut | bolt | ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |

Description

First Ascent of Peak 6113.5 m

Geographical Information

Peak 6113.5 m (photo 1) is located in the southeastern part of the Fedchenko Glacier, in the Vysokaya Stena range. Four glaciers originate from its slopes:

• The northern slopes give rise to the Tanymas 3 glacier;
• The western slopes feed the second (unnamed) glacier, which is a right tributary of the Fedchenko Glacier;
• On the southwest, a third (unnamed) glacier flows, which is the last right tributary of the Vitkovsky Glacier;
• To the south flows the fourth glacier, also a right tributary of the Vitkovsky Glacier.

Approaches

The group of first ascensionists approached Peak 6113.5 m on July 27, 1962, from the base camp (altitude 3900 m) located on the shore of a lake at the confluence of the Kaskadny Glacier with the Abdukagor Glacier.

4. Brief Characteristics of the Ascent

4.1. Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area, ridge: Central Pamir, Vysokaya Stena ridge
3. Peak: Tartu University – 350 years height 6350 m ascent route: from Lake Tanymas II via the northwest ridge
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference: 850 m