Pamir-Alay

Description of a Category 5B climbing route to Peak 4500 m via the left buttress of the North face in the Alai Range, Pamir-Alai.

ASCENT LOG XXXI USSR Alpine Championship Ascent class: rock climbing Region of ascent, range: Pamir-Alai, Alai range. Peak, height, ascent route: Peak 4300 m, height approximately 4500 m, via the left counterfort of the North face. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff. Route characteristics: Section lengths: 5A — 120 m 5B — 245 m

**Ascent route to Gandakush peak (3850 m) with 3B category of difficulty via rocky ridge, with detailed path description and recommendations.**

Climbing type — rock Climbing area — Alai ridge, Dugoба resort area Peak, its height — Gandakush 3850 m Ascent route — NW edge Proposed category of difficulty — 3B Route characteristics — rock Height difference — 3100–3850 m = 750 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — none Steepness — 40–44° Number of driven hooks for belay:

### Ascent Route to Tandalakush Peak via the Eastern Counterfort: 3E-4A Category of Difficulty Description of the ascent route to Tandalakush peak via the eastern counterfort, including recommendations and path characteristics for a challenging climb categorized as 3E-4A.

Ascent Passport Climbing category — technical. Pamir-Alay, mountain range. Gandakush peak, 4300 m, via the eastern spur. Complexity category 3B–4A. Height difference 8500 m, average steepness 45°–49°. 8 rock pitons hammered in for belaying. Total climbing time — 8 hours. Overnight stay (earthen platform) under the route in the Ular-Sai gorge, on the bank of the Ular-Sai river. Team leader — Osminin Vladimir Alekseevich — 1st sports category. Team members: Andrienko Valery Pavlovich — 1st sports category, Moiseev Yuri Mikhailovich — 1st sports category, Sokolovsky Evgeny Alekseevich — 1st sports category, Fedotov Viktor Aleksandrovich — 1st sports category.

A technical ascent category 1B to the summit Белая Шапка (4666 m) via the north-eastern counterfort of the north-eastern ridge in the Алайский ridge of Памиро-Алая.

Ascent Passport Ascent class: technical Ascent area, ridge: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge Peak, its height, ascent route, route characteristics: Belaya Shapka, 4666 m, via north-eastern spur of south-eastern ridge, combined Proposed category: 1B Route characteristics: — height difference 600 m; — length of sections with 5th-6th category difficulty: none; — average slope 40°

Description of a technical ascent of 2A category of complexity to the summit Белая Шапка (4666 m) via the north-eastern shoulder in the Алайский хребет range.

Ascent Passport Ascent category: technical Ascent area; ridge: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge Peak, its height, ascent route, route characteristics: Belaya Shapka, 4666 m, via north-eastern ridge, combined Proposed category: 2A Route characteristics: height difference 600 m; length of sections with category 5–6 complexity — none; average steepness 40° Pitons used: none (rock outcrops were used)

Description of the 3B category difficulty route to the summit of Belaya (4760 m) along the Northern ridge in the Alai Range of Pamir-Alai.

Class — technical. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge. Peak — Belaya via the North ridge, height 4760 m. Proposed difficulty category — 3B. Route characteristics: Height difference — 575 m, length of sections by category: II — 620 m, III — 360 m, IV — 170 m, average steepness — 29°. Pitons hammered: for belay: rock — 18, ice — ?; for anchors and organization: rock — ?, ice — ?. Total climbing hours — 9.5 hours.

### First Ascent via the Western Edge of Aktash Peak (4937 m) in the Dugoba-Shigou Valley, Category 5B Complexity.

Central Council of the Zenit Sports Society Protocol No. 396 dated April 15, 1975 5A first ascent (daib) AKTASH — 4937 m VIA THE WESTERN EDGE (first ascent) Naumov A.F. Master of Sports

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Ak-Tash in the Alay mountain range, category 4 difficulty, first climbed in 1962.

Ascent via the North Ridge The summit of Ak-tash is located in the northwestern spurs of the Alay Range, in the upper reaches of the following glaciers: to the southwest — Dugoba, to the northeast — Ak-Tash, to the northwest — Dugoba-Shigou. The Ak-tash summit massif consists of heavily fragmented granite and limestone rocks. Day One From the "Dugoba" alpine camp, we proceed along the Dugoba River valley to the confluence of the Ak-Tash and Ulitor rivers (2 hours). At the confluence, the trail forks; the further path lies along the left orographic bank of the Ak-Tash River, bypassing a pronounced rocky massif on the right. The trail leads to a green meadow; after crossing it, we descend to the Surmetash River, and then, traversing the talus and grassy slopes above the left bank of the Ak-Tash River, we reach a canyon-like steep descent to the river (3–3.5 hours from the confluence).