Pamir-Alay

Mountain range111,102.58 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent of Peak 4810 via the Northwest Wall, 6B difficulty category, third ascent. The report includes a description of the route and the team's tactical actions.

Passport

  1. Class — technical
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge (upper reaches of the Karavshin river)
  3. Peak "4810", center of the North-West wall (Kritsuk route)
  4. 6B category of difficulty, third ascent
  5. Height difference 1210 m Length 1546 m Length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 1140 m, Average steepness of the main part of the route — 78° (3600–4660), Sections 6 cat. diff.: 95° (15 m), 90° (370 m), 85° (60 m), 80° (150 m), 70° (80 m)
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First ascent of the "4810 m" peak via the center of the northwest wall in the Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, with a detailed description of the route and the team's tactical actions.

PASSPORT

  1. Technical class
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Karasu gorge (tributary of Karavshin river)
  3. Peak "4810 m" via the center of the northwest wall
  4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
  5. Height difference 1210 m, length 1546 m Length of sections with 5B-6B category of difficulty is 1140 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 78° (3600-4660). Sections of 6th category of difficulty: 90° (3600-3860, 4350-4460), 85° (4150-4210), 80° (4000-4120, 4530-4560), 70° (3900-3980)
  6. Pitons hammered:
    Rock pitonsBolt pitonsChocksHoles for sky hooks
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Report on the ascent of the national team to the summit of Odessa via the center of the northwestern wall, category 6B complexity route.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Odessa (4810 m) via the center of the northwest wall, category 6B complexity, by a combined team from Tomsk-Leningrad and Kemerovo regions from 29.07.2018 to 04.08.2018 g.

I. Ascent Report

1. General Information
1.1Team LeaderTemerev Ivan Mikhailovich, MS
1.2ParticipantsAldyn-Kherel Timur Valerievich, 1st sports category; Kashevnok Anton Aleksandrovich, CMS; Suzdaltsev Egor Evgenievich, CMS
1.3Coach's Full NameTemerev Ivan Mikhailovich
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Description of the passage of the route 6B cat. via the northwestern wall of Peak 4810 in Pamir-Alay by the team of Moscow State University in 1990.

Passport

  1. Technical class.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Kara-Su gorge.
  3. Peak 4810 via the center of the NW wall (Kopeyka route)
  4. Category of difficulty — 6B, third ascent.
  5. Height difference — 1200 m, length — 1425 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 945 m (6 category of difficulty — 725 m). Average steepness — 75° (3600–4810), including 5–6 category of difficulty — 83° (3650–4520).
  6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Bolt | | :--: | :--: | :---: |
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First ascent of the NW wall of Peak 4810 in Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, 6th cat. of diff., 53.5 hours of climbing, 5 days.

Passport

  1. Technical class.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge.
  3. Peak 4810, via NW wall.
  4. Proposed — 6B cat. diff., first ascent.
  5. Height difference — 1200 m, length — 1425 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 945 m, of which 6 cat. diff. — 725 m. Average steepness — 75° (3600–4810 m), of which 5–6 cat. diff. — 83° (3650–4520 m).
  6. Pitons driven: | | Bolted pitons | Chocks | | :---------- | :------------ | :---------- | | Rock | 69 | 268 |
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Description of a winter ascent of Peak Odessa (4810 m) via the NW wall, made in February 2008 by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3.23a
  2. Peak — Peak Odessa 4810 m. Via the center of NW wall (Voronov 88)
  3. Assumed — 6B, third ascent, variation
  4. Route character — combined

5. Route characteristics:

route elevation gain 1000 m, route length — 1350 m. length of 6th cat. diff. sections — 1050 m, 5th cat. diff. — 180 m. average steepness of the route — 70°

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Report on the ascent made by the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to the top of Peak Odessa (4810 m) via the center of the northwest wall following the Voronov route, rated as category 6B.

Agency for Physical Culture and Sports of Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRAEVAYA FEDERATSIYA ALPINIZMA

Russian Championship in Alpinism 2008

Class of Technical Ascents

Report

On the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Odessa 4810 m via the center of the northwest wall. Voronov's Route, 6B category of complexity Third ascent, variation Coaches: Zakharov N. N.

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Ascent route description to the Khacionti summit via the north spur wall with technical details and passage tactics.

PASSPORT

  1. Technical class.
  2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Ridge, Northern spur.
  3. Peak 4810 m.
  4. First ascent 6B cat. diff. (approximately).
  5. Route characteristics:
    • height difference – 1110 m
    • length of 6B cat. diff. sections – 1140 m
    • « — » « — » 5B cat. diff. – 300 m
    • « — » « — » 4B cat. diff. – 65 m
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Report on the ascent of *Odesa Peak* (4810) via the Eastern wall, a Category 6A route climbed by the Moscow team during the 2014 Russian Championship.

Peak Odessa (4810)

Route via the Eastern wall (Vedernikov, 1989), 6A cat. Completed during the 2014 Russia Championship in the full-time technical class in Karavshin Team from Moscow:

  • Yurkin A.V. (Master of Sports)
  • Kravets K.V. (1st sports category) Report compiled by Yurkin A.V.

General information about the route

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Ascent of the MSTU alpine club team "Alp-poisk" to Peak 4810 via the center of the East Face, category 6B, second traverse of the Sitnik route (1989).

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent class — technical
  2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Ridge
  3. Peak 4810 — via the Centre of the East Face
  4. Complexity category — 6B (second ascent)
  5. Height difference — 1200 m, length — 1290 m, incl. sections of 5–6 cat. diff. — 1000 m, 6 cat. diff. — 550 m. Average steepness — 80°
  6. Pitons driven: Rock: 81/12 Nuts: 180/62 Bolts: 3+18x/10x
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