Тща­тель­ной причёс­кой отра­бот­кой и на коп­ках. От места под­ход­ки на пере­вале 2 ч 30 мин. The ice ridge turns into a rocky ridge. Here, difficult climbing on rocks (40°), covered with thick flow ice. Insurance through pitons. There are loose rocks. After 40 m exit to the right to a site protected from rockfall from above. Further movement upwards:

• first along stratified rocks,
• then on ice,
• then along 25-meter rocks (60°), which is a continuation of the ridge. At the exit from the rocks, there is a convenient site for organizing insurance, above -

5. A

August 7–10, 1969. L.A. Belnev, L.N. Pimakova, D.M. Molorodov, A.S. Mardovov The route begins with the "4600" pass, which connects the Пуровского (Purovsky) and Толстого (Tolstoy) glaciers. The path across the "4600" pass from the assault camp in the upper reaches of the Пуровского glacier goes:

• along the main part of the glacier,
• then along its left tributary. The first stage of the icefall. The path from the assault camp on the Кисоши (Kisoshi) glacier to the overnight stay on the left tributary of the Пуровского glacier takes 9 hours. Ascent to the "4600" pass

ROUTE TO PEAK "MLADSHIY" VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE (CATEGORY 5A DIFFICULTY) The first ascent of this peak was made on July 25-26, 1969, by a group of climbers from the Arzamas-16 gathering, consisting of:

1. ZHELONKIN E. F.
2. PAVLOVSKY E. S.
3. RUDNEV V. S.
4. SOFRONOV I. D. (leader) Peak "Mladshiy" is located at the beginning of the southern spur of the Turkestan Range, leading to the "Obryv" peak. The nodal peak connecting this spur to the Turkestan Range is a higher unnamed peak situated close to "Mladshiy" and linked by a relatively high and short saddle (approximately 0.5 km). The proximity of "Mladshiy" to the higher unnamed nodal peak led the first ascensionists to suggest the name "Mladshiy" for their ascent target. Both peaks are visible from the "Matccha" pass and enclose the upper valley of the Zeravshan Glacier (see Fig. 1 and Fig. 2). To the southeast, towards the head of the Zeravshan Glacier, a short ridge descends from the summit tower of "Mladshiy," along which the ascent was made. The route along this ridge was purely rock climbing, even in the snowy conditions of 1969. The average steepness of the route is 60°.

• The lower half of the southeast ridge is composed of grey-yellow rocks.

PASSPORT

1. Class — High-altitude technical.
2. Region — Pamir-Alay, Ak-terek spur of the Turkestan Range.
3. Peak Skalisty, Southeast summit 5450 m, via the eastern wall of the South ridge.
4. 6B category of difficulty, second ascent, repetition of the gold medal route of the USSR Championship 1982.
5. Height difference 1600 m, length — 2200 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1722 m, of which 6 category of difficulty — 572 m. Average steepness by sections:

• 4100–4750 m — 79°
• 4750–5280 m — 72°

Passport

1. Class — TECHNICAL.
2. Region — PAMIR-ALAY, Ak-Terek spur of the Turkestan Range.
3. Peak SKALISTY, SOUTHEASTERN SUMMIT — 5450 m, via the eastern wall of the Southern ridge.
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, FIRST ASCENT.
5. Height difference — 1610 m, length 2275 m. Length of sections with 5–6B category of difficulty — 1847 m. Average steepness of main sections:

• 84° (4100–4750 m)
• 72° (4750–5280 m)

PASSPORT

1. Category — technical.

2. Region — PAMIR-ALAY, Ak-Terek spur of the Turkestan Range.
3. SCALISTY Peak, SOUTHEASTERN summit — 5450 m, via the eastern wall of the Southern ridge.
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, FIRST ASCENT.
5. Height difference — 1610 m, length 2275 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1847 m. Average steepness of main sections — 84° (4100–4750 m), 72° (4750–5280 m), 74° (5150–5450 m), of which 6th category — 847 m: 86° (502 m) 4100–4750 m, 77° (265 m) 4790–5250 m, 85° (80 m) 5250–5410 m.
6. Number of pitons driven: | | rock | placements | bolted | ice | | :------------ | :--: | :--------: | :-----: | :---: |

Leningrad Climbing Championship 1973

Skalistaya (3rd West) peak Vertical via North Counterfort

(First ascent, approximately 5B category) Report on the ascent by the LOS DSO "Trud" team

Photo 1. Skalistaya (3rd West) peak Vertical 5130 m and the first ascent route, group's bivouacs

Map of the Skalisty settlement area and peak Vertical

Practical geographical description and sporting characteristics of the route

From the approach to Vetrenaya pass (for a description of the route to the pass, see the section “Ascent in the Skalisty peak massif”) - easy rock ascent to the wall. The wall is 55° steep, 50 m long, has complex rocks (10 m), in the middle of the wall it's on friction. The path goes straight up. After the wall, the path goes along the ridge for several meters, and then left up a chimney (5 m) to the shelves, along which there is an 80 m traverse. Then climb up steep sandy walls (50 m), exit to the summit. From the pass to the summit takes 2 hours. Descent via the ascent route (2 abseils), the rocks on the route are complex. From the approach to the pass to the summit takes around 6 hours.

Peak Skalisty — Main Summit (5621 m) via the northern ridge from the Ats-Terek glacier — 35 km.

August 13, 1969. Kazimierz Głazek, Tadeusz Piotrowski, Bernard Uchmański, Krzysztof Cieleńsky, Bogdan Jankowski From a bivouac on the Votryanaya saddle. Description of the route's character up to the saddle:

• Within "Ascent in the Skalisty Peak massif," the path goes via easy climbing, местами по льду — по пря­мой сто­ро­не гре­бня (400 m), кру­ти­зной до 45°.
• Then an ascent onto a complex ridge, along which another 100 m to its highest point.
• Descent down steep snow (20 m) onto a rocky saddle.
• The further path proceeds along a purely rocky ridge.

Description of the Ascent Route to Obryv Peak via the Southeast Ridge (First Ascent)

Group members: Zhelonkin E.F. (leader), Khokhryakov G.P., Eliseev G.M., Kelikeldin G.V., Sofronov I.D. Obryv Peak is located in the upper reaches of the Zeravshan Glacier, at the end of the southern spur of the Turkestan Range (Pamir-Alay). To the north of Obryv Peak, within the same spur, lies an unnamed peak 5025, separated from Obryv Peak by a long, heavily dissected ridge. To the east, towards Matcha Pass, several steep ridges descend from Obryv Peak and its pre-summit ridges, separated by broad snow-and-ice couloirs. Two ridges extend south and southeast from the peak, terminating in rock walls. According to available data, Obryv Peak had not been climbed before. The route chosen for the first ascent was an ascent via the southeast ridge, accessing it from the southwest through a couloir. The group from Arzamas-16, consisting of G.M. Eliseev, G.V. Kelikeldin, G.P. Khokhryakov, I.D. Sofronov, and E.F. Zhelonkin (leader), departed from the base camp at Matcha Pass at 6:00 on August 4, 1969, reached the summit the same day, spent the night on the ridge, and returned to camp at 14:00 on August 5, descending via the ascent route. The route is a combination of rock, snow, and ice climbing. The main part of the route involves rock climbing, although there are difficult snow and ice sections. From Matcha Pass, the path follows the Zeravshan Glacier, bypassing the southeast ridge to the southern slopes of Obryv Peak. A lake under the southern slopes serves as a landmark for the start of the ascent. Immediately beyond the lake, the ascent proceeds through talus onto a snowfield. The path goes up a fairly steep snowfield to the right, reaching its upper part and emerging onto rocks.