Pamir-Alay
Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent to the summit 4750 via the North Ridge, complexity category 5B, with a detailed analysis of the route and technical details.
- Climbing category — technical
- Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, KTM TV 5.4
- Peak 4750 (p. LOMO) — via the North Ridge, combined route, first ascent
- Proposed difficulty category — 5B
- Length — 1950 m including: length of 5–6 difficulty category — 400 m, including 6 difficulty category — 75 m. Average steepness of the main part — 64°. Height difference — 1150 m.
- Pitons driven:
- rock: 46/4
- chocks: 59/0
- bolt: 1/0
Route Description: По центру юго-восточной стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of a Category 5B route through the center of the southeast wall of Pik Ostriy (4,818 m) in the Ortochashma gorge.
St. Petersburg Alpine Climbing Championship
High-altitude technical class
2022
Report
On the first ascent
to the summit of Peak Ostry 4818 m via the center of the southeast wall, category 5B (proposed), by a team from St. Petersburg from August 4, 2022, to August 6, 2022.
I. Climbing passport
| 1. General information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Ilya Mikhailovich Zhdanov, 1st sports rank |
Route Description: В кф
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the 4818 m peak via a Category 5B difficulty route.
Report
On the first ascent of the peak 4818 m (Peak Ostroy) via the route 5B cat. diff. by a team from Krasnoyarsk and Perm regions from August 4 to 5, 2021
I. Climbing Report
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Popova Marina Evgenievna, MS |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Dyupina Maria, MS, Oleneva Nadezhda, MS |
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent via the center of the North wall of SvaroG peak (5005 m), 6B category of complexity, located in the Ashat gully of the Turkestan Range.
Russian Mountaineering Championship
high-altitude technical class 2021
REPORT
on the ascent to the summit of Svarog, 5005 m, via the center of the North face 6B category of difficulty, first ascent by a combined team from Krasnoyarsk Krai, Novosibirsk, and Moscow For the period 10.08.2021–14.08.2021 2021
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent route and traverse of Ashat Wall in the Turkestan Range, 6B difficulty grade.
Passport
- Class of traverses
- Turkestan Range, Achat gorge
- Achatskaya wall (peaks 4700–4750–4810–Sabakh)
- Assumed 6B, first ascent
- Route characteristics: A. Initial ascent route to peak 4700: Elevation gain — 950 m Length — 1445 m Length of sections with V–VI difficulty — 830 m
Route Description: центру Большого карниза С стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent to the Svarog peak via the center of the big cornice, cat. 6B, in the Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay.
Moscow Alpine Championship 2014 High-altitude Technical Class
Report
On the first ascent of Svarog peak (4960 m) "Along the center of the Big Cornice" approximately 6B category of difficulty. "SKA Zelenograd" team from August 6 to 15, 2014. Moscow 2014
Ascent Passport
- Class — technical.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ashat gorge.
Route Description: центру левого бастиона С стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of a category 6B route through the center of the left bastion of the north face of Sabakh Peak (5300 m) in the Pamir-Alay.
World Alpine Championship
in the technical class
Report
on the ascent of Sabakh Peak (5300 m) via the center of the left buttress of the N wall (first ascent, category 6B proposed) by the Russian national team
Ascent Passport
- Region: Pamir-Alai, Lyaylyak valley area, Ashat valley, section 5.4.2 in the 2012 classification table
- Peak, route: Sabakh Peak, 5300 m, via the center of the left buttress of the N wall, first ascent
- Category: 6B proposed
Route Description: левому кф. С стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of a Category 6B route through the center of the left bastion on the north wall of Peak Sabah (5300 m) in the Pamir-Alay range.
World Alpine Championship
In the technical class
Report
on the ascent of Sabakh Peak (5300 m) via the center of the left bastion of the north face (first ascent, proposed 6B category) by the Russian national team
Climbing Passport
- Region: Pamir-Alay, Lyaylyak valley area, Ashat valley, section 5.4.2 in the 2012 classification table
- Peak, route: Sabakh Peak, 5300 m, via the center of the left bastion of the north face, first ascent
- Category: proposed 6B
- Route type: combined
Route Description: правому кф. С стены
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent of Peak Sabah (5300 m) via the North Face in the Pamir-Alay, made by a team of climbers from Moscow in 1985.
I. Altitude-technical category 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge 3. Pik Sabah, 5300 m, via the North wall 4. Proposed at 6th cat. diff., first ascent 5. Elevation gain: 1500 m, length 2120 m Length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. — 1250 m Average steepness of the wall section of the route (3800-5200 m) — 69° Sections with steepness of:
- 85° — 4130-4360 m, 4420-4470 m (6th cat. diff.)
- 80° — 4360-4420 m, 4760-4870 m
Route Description: центру ЮВ стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit of Petrogradets (5163 m) via the center of the southeast wall, a 5-6 category complexity route, climbed by a group of climbers in 1982.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent Classification Technical 2. Ascent Area: Pamir range, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Petrogradets, 5163 m via the center of the southeast wall 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B (2nd ascent) 5. Route characteristics: height difference 4200 m – 5163 m = 963 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 490 m: 5th category — 395 m, 6th category — 95 m, average steepness 72° 6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 119, ice — 0, bolt — 0, placements — 42