Khrebet Sarydzhaz

Ascent record of Gorky Peak (6010 m) in Tengri Tagh range via North-West Wall, grade 6B, first ascent.

Ascent Passport Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9.1 Gorkogo (NE), 6010 m, center of NW wall Proposed 6B category of complexity, first ascent Route type: combined Route height difference: 1510 m Route length: 2030 m Length of sections: V category of complexity — 830 m, VI category of complexity — 400 m Average steepness: main part of the route (4500 m–5900 m) — 60° total route (4500 m–6010 m) — 58°

Report on the ascent of the combined team from Krasnoyarsk Krai to Khan-Tengri Peak via the south face of the south-western counterfort, category 6B complexity route.

MINISTRY OF SPORT, TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM RUSSIAN CHAMPIONSHIP 2013 Class of High-Altitude Ascents Report Of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak via the south wall of the southwest counterfort (variant of the route by Sviridenko) 6B category of complexity. Passport of the Ascent Region — Central Tien Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9.18. Peak — Khan-Tengri 6995 m, via the south wall of the southwest counterfort (variant of the route by Sviridenko).

Description of the first ascent via the right buttress of Pik Ogoryonok in the Terskey Ala-Too Range, made by the Spartak team in 1970.

Results of the ascent made at the 1970 USSR speleology championship Ascent class: Technical-alpinist Ascent region: Tien Shan (Inner Tien Shan) Ascent route: Ascent to the peak of Pik Gorkogo from the Beryoza glacier via the right buttress Ascent characteristics: Height difference 2000 m, average angle of ascent 55°, length of complex sections 1200 m Number of belays: Rock 92, ice 208, piton 8 Total time taken: Ascent 64 hours, descent 18 hours Number and characteristics of bivouacs: 16 tents, mostly on ice, set up in 3-4 hours Team name: Central Sports Council of the Spartak Sports Society Names and sports ranks of participants:

The second ascent of the 6B category route on Khan-Tengri peak via the south-eastern ridge. Description of tactics, terrain and technical skills used by the team.

Passport I. Category — High-altitude Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge Khan-Tengri Peak 103 South-West edge (V. Sviridenko, 82) 6B cat. diff. (2nd ascent) Height difference 2725 m, length 4920 m. Length of 6A–6B cat. diff. sections 480 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 62°. Hooks left on the route (not extracted) — none. Previously driven hooks used and not extracted — 3 piton hooks.

First ascent of the 108 wall of Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m, category 6B, with details of tactics and technical actions of the team.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — high-altitude Ascent area: Tsentralny Tian-Shan, South Inylchek glacier Peak, route: Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m, via Southeast wall Estimated category of difficulty — 6B, 2nd first ascent Height difference: 2500 m total route length — 3140 m wall section length — 2500 m of which 5th category of difficulty — 2100 m

Route passport for Category 5A climb to Peak Mramornaya Stena (6350 m) in the Central Tien Shan, ascended via the right Western counterfort of the Northwest ridge.

Passport Central Tian-Shan, Meridionalny Ridge. Peak Marmorная стена (6350 m), via the right Western counterfort of the North-West ridge. Category 5A (third ascent). Route type: combined. Elevation gain: 2650 m; route length — 4600 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty: 900 m. Average slope: — main part of the route — 40° (4200 m – 6100 m); — whole route — 37° (3700 m – 6350 m). Pitons left on the route: 4; including "drills": 1. Pitons used on the route: 10; including "drills": 8.

Climbing report on Khan-Tengri via NE edge of Chapayev Peak shoulder, cat.5B, Tian-Shan, 1999

on Khan-Tengri via NE edge of Chapayev Peak shoulder, Tian Shan, September 7, 2013 Passport High-altitude class. Tian Shan, North Inylchek glacier. Khan-Tengri peak, via NE edge of Chapayev Peak shoulder. 5B category of difficulty, Grebenshchikova memorial route. Height difference: 2950 m, length 5110 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 310 m. Average steepness of NE edge of Chapayev Peak shoulder — 44°, average steepness of the 3rd ridge of Khan-Tengri Peak — 43°. Number of pitons used: rock — 30+10\; snow — 8\; ice — 1. Left on the route: rock — 10\; snow — 8\. Team's total climbing hours: 20 h and days — 4.

Account of the first ascent of the northwest wall of Peak Gor'ky (6010 m) in Tian Shan by a team led by Alexander Korobkov in 2004.

Climbing Passport Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9.1 Gorky (NE), 6010 m, via the left part of NW wall Proposed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent Route type: combined Route elevation gain: 1510 m Route length: 2050 m Section lengths: V category of difficulty – 385 m VI category of difficulty – 335 m

The ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the center of the North Face in 1974, describing the route and its passage by the Spartak team.

Passport Ascent to Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via the center of the North face. Ascent category: high-altitude Ascent area: Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: center of the North face, height 6995 m Ascent characteristics: height difference 2600 m, average steepness 55°, length of complex section 710 m Number of hooks driven: rock 278, ice 58, bolted — Number of nights and their characteristics: 13 on dug-out platforms, 5 of which were sitting Number of travel hours: 119 Team name: Team of CS DSO "Spartak"

Report on the ascent of the Kazakhstan national team to the peak Mramornaya стена (Marble Wall) via the North Wall buttress, category 5A climb.

WORLD CUP HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS Report of the national team of the Republic of Kazakhstan on the ascent of Mramornaya стена peak via the buttress of the North face, cat. dif. 5A Ascent Passport Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table: Bayankol, at the junction of the Meridionalny and Sarydzhas ridges, Name of the peak, route name: Mramornaya стена via the buttress of the North face Cat. dif.: 5A Route type: Combined Height difference of the route: 2500 m Route length: 5000 m