New route on the 5th Tower of Corona in Ala-Archa 6A, 950 m, fr 6c, A2

SW wall of the 5th Tower of Corona with routes. (Glukhovtsev's route is not correctly marked — it goes right in the middle part to the couloir) Few people know that at the end of August, a new route appeared on the SW wall of the 5th Tower of Corona in Ala-Archa. The route was climbed by a team of two: Syzshchikov Anatoly (Yekaterinburg) and Markevich Konstantin («SCA Zelenograd», Moscow). Since the guys are very modest, I'll describe this ascent for them. In winter 2009, Misha Borich and I tried to climb it in a light style, without a platform, bolts, and preliminary processing, but were blown away after 3 days (http://mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=4401, our attempt). When Tolik went to Archa for gathering, he asked for some interesting route to be suggested. And here is the result. I'll simply relay the information from the report.

Ascent passport

1. Class — technical.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Corona peak, 5th Tower, 4860 m, right part of SW wall.

Report

On the first ascent to the peak Korona, 5th Tower, 4860 m, via the right part of the southwest wall, presumably 6A category of difficulty, by the team of "SCA Zelenograd" (Moscow) and "ROO FASO" (Ekaterinburg) from August 26 to August 28, 2013.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — Technical.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai valley.
3. Peak Korona, 5th Tower, 4860 m, via the right part of the SW wall.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6A. First ascent.
5. Route type — Rock climbing.
6. Route characteristics: | — Height difference of the route | — 725 m |

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai gorge.
2. Peak name: Korona 5th tower 4860 m
3. Route V. Balezin (1996), center of the southwest wall, 6A
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 850 m. Route length: 950 m. Section length:

• V difficulty category 600 m
• VI difficulty category 110 m.

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range.
3. p. Korona, 5th Tower, 4860 m, center of the NW wall.
4. Proposed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain — 650 m,
   • length — 930 m,
   • length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 700 m,
   • average steepness of the route — 67°,

PASSPORT

1. Technical class.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge.
3. Peak Korona, Fifth Tower, 4860 m via the center of the southwest wall.
4. 6A category of difficulty, second ascent.
5. Route characteristics:
   • length 980 m
   • length of 5–6 category of difficulty 700 m
   • average steepness of the route 67°
   • average steepness of the main part 75°

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — winter
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge
3. Peak Korona 5-ya (4860 m) — via the center of the S wall
4. Complexity category — 6A
5. Height difference — 810 m Length — 960 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 580 m, of which:

• 6 category — 360 m (4260–4600). Average steepness of the route — 66° (4050–4860). Wall steepness — 81° (4260–4600)

6. Pitons driven:

Passport

1. Climbing category — winter
2. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ala-Archa gorge
3. Peak Korona (5th), 4860 m, via the center of the southern side
4. Category — 6A
5. Height difference: 400 m Length: 1010 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 480 m Average steepness: 59°
6. Pitons driven:

v. Korona, 5th tower in the center of SW wall, V. Balezina route, Tian-Shan, April 7, 1996

PASS:

1. Technical class.
2. Tian-Shan, "Ak-sai" gorge.
3. v. Korona, 5th tower, in the center of SW wall.
4. 6A category of complexity, V. Balezina route.
5. Height difference 640 m. Distance 720 m. Distance of sections:
   • 5 category of complexity — 420 m.
   • 6 category of complexity — 70 m.

Ascent Log

1. Class: technical;
2. Region: Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Climbing object: Peak Korona, 5th tower, via the center of the southern wall (V. Balezin) 4855 m.
4. Complexity category: 6A
5. Route type: combined Route elevation gain — 770 m. Route length — 810 m. Length of sections:

• 5 — 340 m
• 6 — 120 m. Average slope:

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, 7.4
2. Name of the peak: Korona (5th), center of the SW wall
3. 6A category of difficulty
4. Route type: rock
5. Height difference: 838 m Route length: 892 m Length of sections: V category of difficulty 533 m VI category of difficulty 102 m Average steepness: