2. via N.-W. ridge, 2A category 3. via left edge, 3A category 4. via right S.-W. ridge, 2B category 5. via W. wall, 3B category 6. via right W. ridge, 3B category

Via Western wall, 3B category of difficulty

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the right tributary of Ulu'n river. After 20–25 minutes of movement, start climbing up a snowy couloir to the right of the western counterfort. Move along the right side of the couloir. Approach the heavily snow-covered "ram foreheads" at the beginning of the route. Then proceed in a rope team. Bypass the "ram foreheads" from the left along the ledge and ascend simple rocks to a snowy isthmus. Here is a control cairn on the wall in a tin can. The ascent time to the snowy isthmus from the base camp is 1 hour. From the control cairn, to the left of a large chimney with ice, begins an 80-meter key section of the wall:

• First, make a difficult 8-meter traverse to the left with a slight gain in height.

2. via N.-W. buttress, 2A 3. via left edge 3A 4. via right S.-W. buttress, 2B 5. via W. wall, 3B 6. via right W. buttress, 3B

Via North-Western Buttress, category 2A

The route is the closest from the base camp. Begin the ascent along the right tributary of the Uluun river, after 5-7 minutes, and after crossing the river, start climbing up to the right along the slope with a gradual exit to the North-Western buttress. The steepness of the buttress gradually increases. The movement takes place on snowy, uncomplicated rocks. After an hour of ascent, the buttress flattens out significantly and turns into a forty-meter snowy ridge. Further movement is carried out directly along the buttress on snowy uncomplicated rocks with simultaneous belay. After 30-35 m:

• On a three-meter inclined plate, hook belay with alternate movement is necessary.
• Above the plate, there is a snowy shelf convenient for belay.

7. Ascent Routes on Mt. Morion Vostochny (2125 m)

Via the North Spur, Cat. 2A

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Uluun River towards Mt. Morion. After 1 hour, begin ascending the couloir between Mt. Morion and Mt. Morion Vostochny, keeping to its left side. Bypass the initial, straightforward rocks of the spur on the right, then ascend onto the spur and continue up to the rocks. Movement is simultaneous. Further:

• Traverse across snow-covered slabs under a steep wall with fractures on the left and right parts — the first critical section of the route.
• The start of this section can be done from either the right or left, depending on the route conditions.
• After 15 meters, both paths converge before a 10-meter snow-filled internal angle; careful passage through this angle brings you to the left side of the spur, where belays can be organized. Continuing with alternating movement along the sharp, steep, and snowy ridge demands caution and the ability to set up belay points without halting. Before the second critical section — a wall with a vertical crack — it is necessary to establish a reliable belay station, as a fall could result in dropping into a steep couloir on the left. The wall must be ascended via the vertical crack, which accommodates good placements for nuts and cams. It is not recommended to bypass the wall on the left due to smooth, snowy rocks with minimal handholds and cracks. Further:

Mt. Ermolaeva S. (2163 m) – peak Ermolaeva (2153 m), 2A cat. diff.

From the base camp, immediately cross to the right side of the right tributary of the Ulun River and begin the ascent towards the obvious buttress of peak Sev. Ermolaeva. First, ascend the snowy slope for about 300 m in the direction of the first "bastion" on the buttress, which is 8 m high. It is overcome head-on. Then, along the sharp snowy ridge for 50 m, approach the base of the second 20 m "bastion". Pass it on the right side through the wall. Further, after traversing 70 m of a simple ridge, reach the third 5 m "bastion". Pass it on its right side via a clearly visible internal corner. Then, along a simple ridge, reach peak Sev. Ermolaeva. Movement along the buttress is logical and safe. Further, move along a heavily serrated ridge for 200 m towards the foot of a large "bastion". It is passed via slabs and a wall in the center – the key point of the route. Then, another 60 m of a heavily serrated ridge with gaps, which leads to a wide snowy ridge of the summit ascent of peak Ermolaeva. The total ascent time is 4–5 hours. Descent is via the S. ridge on route 1B cat. diff.

Route Safety Assessment

The route is ridge-based throughout. Snow cornices on the ridge to the left along the way pose a danger.

Recommendations for Subsequent Groups on Equipment Usage and Route Passage Features

For groups of 6 people, it is necessary to have:

Route Descriptions for Climbing Fregat Peak

Via the Central Counterfort, Category 2B

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Ulun River towards Fregat Peak, heading towards the central counterfort. After 1 hour, start ascending via the couloir, keeping to its right side. In the upper part, the couloir becomes steeper, leading to a wide snow-ice chimney. Climbing is tense. In the upper part of the chimney, there are "live," slightly overhanging, crosswise blocks that require careful passage. It is recommended to set up a station or belay above them, in the lower part of a small chimney that leads to the ridge. Further movement is possible:

• Simultaneous or alternating movement to the gendarme (the first key point of the route). A sloping shelf to the right of it transitions into a steep, snow-covered wall with ice in the crevices. After passing it, we enter a steep internal angle with smooth walls, leading to the top of the gendarme, where a station needs to be set up. Subsequent movement occurs strictly along the ridge, requiring accuracy and attention. After the ridge, depending on the route's condition, one can:
• Go through an icy chimney with a transition to the wall and ascend it to the left,
• Or move along the right wall of the chimney, only reaching the wall in its upper part. The last 40 meters of the counterfort, as well as further movement along the ridge to the summit, must be done in alternating steps, carefully belaying, as a fall from here could have the most severe consequences.

Ermolaeva, along the southern ridge — Vodolazko S.I. "Badzhal Range"

II A C II O P T I. Combined route. 2. Badzhal Range, Ulun gorge. 3. v. Ermolaeva, along the southern ridge. 4. Proposed — 1B cat. diff. first ascent. 5. Height difference: 350 m, length — 700 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 30°. 6. Pitons left on the route — none. Used previously driven pitons and not knocked out — none. 7. Travel hours — 5 hours. 8. Overnights: in the base camp at the confluence of the tributaries of the Ulun River.

Via the right edge of the central buttress of the Northwest wall, 3A cat. diff.

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Oмот river towards the Northwest wall of Oмот peak. After 1 hour, start ascending via a couloir, keeping direction towards the right edge of the central buttress. The first uncomplicated rocks of the buttress are bypassed on the right, approaching the key section of the route — a 15-meter wall and a 25-meter chimney with a small cornice after it. Pass the wall from left to right; the chimney — head-on with a deviation to the right in its upper part. 5–7 meters of climbing up the wall with cracks, at the junction with a steep snowy couloir, it is recommended to set up a station. After 20 meters of careful climbing on ice-covered and moss-grown rocks, we reach the ridge of the buttress. Further:

• 40 meters of uncomplicated but steep ascent lead to a 5-meter wall,
• the wall is passed head-on with simultaneous bypassing of a gendarme on the ridge to the right. Passing the next two inclined slabs and the chimney between them requires attentiveness, as a fall can result in a significant drop. It is recommended to:
• ascend the chimney by 2–3 meters,
• then move to the right slab,
• moving right and upwards, reach uncomplicated rocks. After 100 meters of easy ridge movement, approach an inclined, ice-covered slab with an internal angle adjoining it on the right. It is necessary to overcome the slab, ascending as close to the angle as possible, using its overhanging parts for support and fractures for anchor points.

9. Descriptions of Ascent Routes to Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m)

Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m) – Mt. Ulun (2221 m), Category 1B Difficulty

From the base camp, move along the left tributary of the Ulun River, then towards the Edelweiss Pass. After 20–30 minutes of walking, start ascending up and to the right along the Eastern Counterfort of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m). After 1 hour and 10 minutes of ascent along a relatively simple snow-covered ridge with step-kicking, reach the Northeast Ridge of the summit, then continue along it for 20 minutes to the summit. The ridge is not steep and is snow-covered, but mutual belay is necessary due to the presence of snow cornices. Crampons are mandatory! The summit of Khabarovskikh Alpinistok is a pyramid with steep walls dropping to the Southwest and Southeast. The further path is clearly visible from the summit. The traverse follows the ridge directed from North to South. Characteristics of the ridge:

• rocky, fairly narrow;
• drops steeply on both sides with walls up to 60 m deep;
• partially snow-covered, which somewhat simplifies movement;
• features low "gendarme" formations that can only be overcome head-on.

Via the North Ridge, Cat. 1B diff.

From the base camp, follow the right bank of the right tributary of the Ulu river. After 20–25 minutes of walking, start ascending via a snowy couloir left of the rightmost buttress of the summit. Having ascended 80 m, move right onto the buttress and continue along it. The team moves simultaneously in rope teams across несложным засneженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks). Before reaching the North Ridge, leave the buttress to the right and exit onto the snowy slope, bypassing the "gendarme". The ascent to the ridge takes 1.5–2 hours from the start of the climb. Once on the North Ridge, move right in rope teams. After 150 m of simultaneous movement on dense névé, you will come to a small dip in the ridge — a 4 m wall. Continue with alternate protection for 120 m. There are snowy cornices on the right side of the ridge in places. Organize protection using rock projections. Then, proceed 100 m across несложным заснеженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks) to reach the summit. The summit is a small rocky area. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route with rappel lines hung practically along the entire ridge section of the route:

• Descending from the summit along the ridge takes 40–50 minutes.
• Descending from the ridge along the buttress takes 20 minutes. Total ascent time is 5–6 hours.

Route Safety Assessment

The main hazard for climbers are the snowy cornices along the 250 m long snowy ridge. When descending from the ridge via the couloir and potentially cutting into the snowy slope, beware of:

• avalanches.

Recommendations for Subsequent Groups on Gear Usage and Route Specifics

Edelweiss Pass Route

Eastern Ridge Route, Category 1B difficulty

Traverse of Khabarovsk Climbers Peak

Descent from the Routes

Via the Eastern Counterfort, Category 1B difficulty. From the camp to the start of the route takes 20–25 minutes.

Section	Length	Steepness, °	Description
R0–R1	80 m	25°	Old snow
R1–R2	100 m	30°	Steep slope