Central Tian Shan
Route Description: правой части С стены
SSummitMateWinter first ascent of the North Face of Pik Korona (4855 m) in Tian Shan, grade 5B, 1395 m, 9 hours.
Ascent Passport.
- Type of ascent: winter
- Region of ascent: Tian-Shan.
- Peak Korona (4855 m) from the North
- Category of difficulty: 5B (approximate) first ascent
- Route characteristics: route length — 1395 m, wall height difference — 900 m, average steepness of the route (bergshrund — plateau) — 64°
- Number of pitons: rock, bolt, nut, and ice protection elements — 60
Route Description: правой части С стены
SSummitMateClimbing Mount Everest via the South Col: route description, key difficulties, and necessary skills for mountaineers.
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Route Description: ледовым каскадам СЗ стены
SSummitMateFirst ascent to the summit of Corona (4810 m) via NW wall, diff. cat. 6A, 1210 m height difference, 5 days, 42 hours of travel time.
Passport
Climbing category — winter I. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range
- Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via NW wall ice cascades, category I route. Presumed difficulty cat. — 6A, first ascent, combined. Height difference: 1210 m, length — 1400 m. Length of 5th — 6th difficulty sections — 980 m. Average slope — 63°. Pitons driven: | rock | chocks | ice | | :--: | :----: | :-: | | 87⁄52 | 37⁄75 | 55⁄0 |
- Climbing hours: 42 h, days — 5
Route Description: ледовым каскадам СЗ стены
SSummitMateDescription of the route to the summit of Corona I via the southern ridge with information on technical difficulty and climbing features.
Korona (I-st) 4810 m
Route Description: ледовым каскадам СЗ стены
SSummitMateA description of the route to the summit in MI symbols with a detailed diagram and photograph.
ROUTE SCHEME IN SYMBOLS, MI:
2500
Route Description: ледовым каскадам СЗ стены
SSummitMateA climbing route description, including detailed information on difficulty, duration, and equipment required for the alpine ascent.
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 4 | 5 | 2 | 50 | 40 | 2I | ||
| 3/3 | 7/3 | 3 | 60 | 30 | 20 | ||
| 3 | 9 | 5 | 55 | 80 | 20 | ||
| 4/3 | 5/5 | 2 | 80 | I5 | 19 | ||
| 2 | 7 | - | 70 | 25 | 18 | ||
| 5 | - | 6 | 4100 м | 60 | 30 | 17 | |
| 4 | 8 | 3 | 12 pitches, 24–19 rock, 36–23 pitons, 3 ice | 65 | 55 | 16 | |
| 5/5 | 7/7 | - | 90 | 20 | 15 |
Route Description: ледовым каскадам СЗ стены
SSummitMateDescription of the route to the mountain peak with sections of snow-ice and rocky terrain, including technically difficult sections, elements of ITO and overnight stays organization.
Pitch 0–2. Start — bergschrund. It is better to cross it in the left part of the lowering, as the width of the crevasse and the wall of the bergschrund are somewhat smaller. Further movement is along the ice slope with a steepness of 50–55° to the rocks. Insurance through ice screws, use of ice screws and piolet-traction (French: "piolet-traction", Russian: айс-фифи). Pitch 2 — 5. Rocky belt, steep granite monoliths, limited selection of cracks. At first, movement along the inner corner, then a small cornice; after it, along an inclined crack to the left. Very difficult climbing, passing in aide (French: "aide", Russian: ИТО). When planning the passage of this section, it is best to use preliminary processing. For insurance, the entire set of rock equipment is used:
- pitons (Russian: крючья),
- nuts (Russian: закладки),
- cams (Russian: френды),
- piton-ladders (Russian: крю-коно-лесе-нки) etc. Pitch 6 — II. A small inclined shelf, overnight stay is possible using a hammock or a square piece of fabric under a tent. Further:
- Very difficult climbing along a vaguely expressed chimney
- Exit under a cornice
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of Kopo-na (4110 m) along the southern slope, an uncomplicated mountaineering route of 1B category of complexity.
a. Copona 1.2 Baluns
4110
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateAscent to the summit Corona (1st) via the North wall in Kyrgyz Ala-Too, technical difficulty II-Aspect, the route taken and the equipment used.
II Aspect
- Technical category
- Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ak-Sai gorge
- Peak Korona (1st), via North face
- 55
- Height difference: 1060 m, length — 1540 m Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty grade — 450 m. Average steepness of the main part is 76° (3950–4640), including 6th category steepness of 85° (4370–4456).
- Pitons driven: rock ring-bolts ice 103 17 2* 13 12
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMate**Korona Peak (4810 m)** - description of the ascent route and key features.
в. Корона (1-я) 4810
м