Foros kant. Telezhenko, 2B cat. sl. A strong key rope requires the leader's ability to climb and belay on rocks not less than F 5 c–6 a. This means that if there isn't one, then it's better not to go. To fail to climb and abandon the route is one thing. To fall off and ... is another.

Treugolnik — 11

Author: Alexander Zakolodny, Ukraine

New route on Treugolnik "Zvezdniy" 6B

The next day we climbed. But no, the championship rules put us in a situation where we had to climb "fast and light". And how can you climb fast when there's snow, rain, frost - so we had to spend the night stylishly, without a sleeping bag and with a bonfire.

To summarize:

The line turned out to be directive to the bastion.

• The complexity of some sections is really A3+ (maybe even A4). Very similar to the first ropes of Krizuk's route on Peak Odessa 4810 m.
• Danger - by my standards - is off the charts.
• Style - couldn't be easier.

Triangle — 8

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko («Оде­ссит»), Odessa Pho­tos by Aleksey Zhilin Gora Treugolnik (Triangle Mountain, 1000 m above sea level) is located above the settlement of Parkovoe, 2 km west of Mar­che­ki. The wall has a western orientation, so it is almost invisible from the lower road. The wall's length in the central part is >400 m, height difference is >300 m. The best way to approach the wall is through the quarry. From the spring up the scree — 15 minutes to the wall.

Triangle — 7. "Druzhba"

Massif: Triangle (1000 m) Complexity: 6А VI A3 Authors: A. Lav­ri­nen­ko, T. Tsush­ko, A. Kho­men­ko (Odes­sa) Year of creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 13 Length: 535 m Time to complete: 14–16 hours Route description: A long, laborious line in the central part of the wall. Interesting and varied climbing. There are sections of destroyed rocks, which is typical for the entire Triangle. From the bivouac, approach the wall and move left for 70 m. The starting point of the route is marked by the letter "Д" on the wall. R0–R1 40 m. Up a crack to a ledge with a small tree. Two meters to the left of the tree:

• under the eaves, there's a bolt (hard to see);
• under the eaves, a difficult traverse to the right into a washed-out groove;
• up the groove for 10 m to a small ledge, there's a bolt.

Triangle — 5. "Orthodox"

Massif: Triangle (1000 m) Complexity: 6A, VI, A3+ Authors: E. Poltavets (Kharkov), A. Lavrinenko (Odessa) Year of creation: 2010 Length: 485 m Time to complete: 15–20 h Route description: The line passes through the central part of Triangle. The route is long, laborious, and minimally equipped with bolts. The rock is not monolithic everywhere. From the overnight stay, approach the wall and move left for 100 m. The route starts 50 m to the left of the start of route №6 "Druzhba" — the letter "D" on the wall. The starting point is marked by fresh collapse traces under the wall. R0–R1 45 m. Up a five-meter overhanging wall to the right. The terrain then becomes more manageable. Move left and up along a wide crack with a small tree. After 30 m, the crack turns right and disappears. On the wall, move left and up 8 m towards the inner corner to a bolt, then climb left into the corner. It's better to set up a station in the corner, under the protection of a ledge, as the second section has very crumbling rocks.

• 35 m V
• 8 m VI A3+
• 3 m V R1–R2 35 m. Without using the resonating plate on skyhooks, move right and up (3 holes), then up through crumbling terrain; there are two bolts. From the second bolt, move along a shelf to the left, then up 5–7 m through a crumbling corner. Station on personal anchors.

Triangle — 4

The material was prepared by: Max Kostrov and Olga Kostrova Triangle, route "Renaissance" 6A, F7b/7b+, A0 (or VI, A3), 440 m — Crimea The "Renaissance" route* to the Triangle summit via the left part of the Western wall was first climbed in autumn 2001 by a team from Odessa consisting of:

• Alexey Zhilin
• Sergey Kalachev
• Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko
• Vladimir Mogila (see Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko's "Odessit" description — 6A, VI, A3).

Triangle Mountain, new route "Trio" 5B

The route was climbed by a team consisting of: Sasha Zakolodnii, Grisha Grigoryev, Denis Kozyrkov from Kharkov. To date, this line is the sixth, the leftmost one on the wall. The route is very diverse and logical. It entirely follows the natural relief, with a lot of climbing. I made a special effort to minimize the number of bolts and rock transitions (there are only four bolts in total, three of which are on stations). The total time taken to complete the route is 21 hours. The route was climbed in May 2011. The route starts 10 meters to the left of the "Renaissance" route, near a small pine tree standing alone. On the wall, a letter "Т" is carved. The line of the "Triangle" route. High-resolution photo R0–R1 50 m, A2, VI, 75–90°. From the small pine tree, go straight up through a series of cracks by climbing; after 15 meters, the cracks converge into one, using artificial aids (slightly to the left of the overhang). Then the crack diverges; continue upwards to the right using artificial aids (old bolts will be visible on the left, but you shouldn't go towards them). Station: bolt + personal anchor. R1–R2 40 m, A2, V+, 75°. From the station, go straight up the crack using artificial aids for 15 meters. Then climb upwards to the left towards the pine trees (a lot of vegetation). Station on the leftmost pine tree + personal anchor. R2–R3 50 m, A2+, VI, 75°–80°. From the station, climb upwards to the left onto the "katushki" (rocky outcrops) using artificial aids for 15 meters. Then continue upwards through the cracks, and afterwards slightly to the left, by climbing. Station on a small inclined ledge, at the base of a not very pronounced angle. Bolt + personal anchor.

Triangle — 9

Authors: Bublik Sergey, Shimko Nikolay, Ukraine. Photos: Shimko Yu., Komlyk Yu., Vasilyeva N.

A new route in Crimea on Triangle peak

The route is dedicated to our friend Masha Khitrikova...

New route in Crimea on g. Tre­уголь­ник — «So­ko­li­naya okhota» 4А

First ascent 2013: Dmitriy Lesnoy, Viktor Reyzner (Kherson)

About the route «So­ko­li­naya okhota» 4А (preliminary).

The route is located to the right of the bastion, where the route "Gendalf Seryy" 4А is laid. The upper large part of the route passes along a not ярко expressed ridge. It was expected to be 2А–3А, but it turned out to be more difficult due to several sections of 6а–6а+ at the beginning. The entire route was climbed freely, with free climbing. The relief is generally monolithic, there were not many loose rocks, and those we removed from the wall, so it is now not prone to rockfall. In two places, we had to approach trees through a couple of meters of lush vegetation (R1 and R6), a first ascent, after all. The line of the route is logical, it goes exactly where you want to go. The main difficulties are at the beginning, on the 1st and 2nd ropes. All stations are on trees; we didn't drill bolt holes, only hammered in 1 piton when transitioning to the right after R1, because there was nothing to place there.

About the name

On the 6th rope, while leading, I heard desperate cries of birds above. Deciding that the falcons were возмущались at our approach, I began to calm them down aloud and promised that we wouldn't touch anything. After a few seconds, they approached, and I realized that two falcons were hunting a smaller bird, which was crying. And right in front of me, at a distance of about eight meters in the air, a scene unfolded that I had only seen in documentaries:

New route in Crimea on g. Treugolnik — “Gendalf Seryy” 4A

The bastion to the left of Treugolnik's main wall. Maybe it was climbed before, but it's not in the classifier and there are no descriptions anywhere. On the route, we didn't find any hooks or drill holes, nor any signs of previous passage. The first time we came with the intention to make a first ascent, we were unlucky with the weather — it was raining. So, we decided to just scout the approaches and get as close as possible to examine and photograph everything.

Gora Treugolnik, route “Gendalf Seryy” 4A

First ascent (2011): Dmitry Lesnoy, Maxim Berezhnoy (Kherson)

It turned into a whole reconnaissance expedition in harsh conditions :). We had never been under Treugolnik before, but knew it was possible to approach from the quarry. We decided to head straight to the bastion from the road through the forest, and return via the quarry to compare these two approach options. The second option, through the quarry, turned out to be much more convenient and readable. The second time, the decision to climb this route was practically spontaneous, the weather was favorable, and we completed it as a two-person team in 10 hours without using any technical equipment or hanging belays — everything was done on-sight by both participants.

Approach