Triangle Mountain, new route "Trio" 5B

The route was climbed by a team consisting of: Sasha Zakolodnii, Grisha Grigoryev, Denis Kozyrkov from Kharkov.

To date, this line is the sixth, the leftmost one on the wall. The route is very diverse and logical. It entirely follows the natural relief, with a lot of climbing. I made a special effort to minimize the number of bolts and rock transitions (there are only four bolts in total, three of which are on stations). The total time taken to complete the route is 21 hours. The route was climbed in May 2011.

The route starts 10 meters to the left of the "Renaissance" route, near a small pine tree standing alone. On the wall, a letter "Т" is carved.

The line of the "Triangle" route. High-resolution photo R0–R1 50 m, A2, VI, 75–90°. From the small pine tree, go straight up through a series of cracks by climbing; after 15 meters, the cracks converge into one, using artificial aids (slightly to the left of the overhang). Then the crack diverges; continue upwards to the right using artificial aids (old bolts will be visible on the left, but you shouldn't go towards them). Station: bolt + personal anchor.

R1–R2 40 m, A2, V+, 75°. From the station, go straight up the crack using artificial aids for 15 meters. Then climb upwards to the left towards the pine trees (a lot of vegetation). Station on the leftmost pine tree + personal anchor. R2–R3 50 m, A2+, VI, 75°–80°. From the station, climb upwards to the left onto the "katushki" (rocky outcrops) using artificial aids for 15 meters. Then continue upwards through the cracks, and afterwards slightly to the left, by climbing. Station on a small inclined ledge, at the base of a not very pronounced angle. Bolt + personal anchor.

R3–R4 35 m, A2, VI, 80°–90°. From the station, go upwards for 2 meters, then along the inclined shelf to the right towards a bolt (avoid going left). From the bolt, go upwards through a crack for 3 meters using artificial aids. Then continue upwards to the right, and afterwards back to the left - bypassing the "belly" - to reach a shelf, which you traverse to the right for 2 meters. Then continue upwards through a crack towards a bolt. The station is located slightly to the left of a rusty-white streak on the vertical face. Bolt + personal anchor.

R4–R5 40 m, A2, VI, 95°. From the station, go 3 meters to the left using artificial aids. Then climb into a rusty chimney, using artificial aids at the exit. Continue towards a pine tree by climbing. From the pine tree, go 2 meters to the left, into a crack, and up it onto a large grassy ledge, to the base of a large internal angle. Station on the right side of the large internal angle on a small ledge. Personal anchor.

R5–R6 48 m, A2+, VI, 90°–100°. From the station, climb the angle using climbing techniques under a small overhang (a hook is left). Then go upwards through a small overhang for 12 meters using artificial aids. Continue to an inclined shelf (two "carrots" are left). From the shelf, go upwards through the central crack of the angle (orienting towards the left hook) using artificial aids. Then climb through large blocks onto a small shelf. Station on personal anchor.

R6–R7 50 m, V. From the station, go upwards to the right for 10 meters by climbing. Then follow the ridge (better from the left side, through the bushes). Station on a tree.

R7–R8 60 m. Through the forest towards the summit ascent. R8–R9 50 m, IV. Through the internal angle to reach the summit. The route has left:

• Bolts: on stations 3 pcs. — 10×40 mm Kong, intermediate 1 pc. — 8×30 mm
• Rock hooks: 4 pcs.

Author of the description: Alexander Zakolodnii (Kharkov). Source: ALP Project