Arfen Cher-burun — 4

Authors: Streltsov S., Zakutin A., Sevastopol city

"Piranha" Route 6A, VI, A3, 236 m, Cape Aya. Peak with elevation 235.2 m ("Arfen") Streltsov S., Zakutin A. September 8, 2002

Tactics for wall traversal. I. Main recommendations are presented in the description of the "OBA-NA" route, 6A - 2001.

II. Watercraft

In the 2002 season, we used paired mattresses inserted into a single protective cover, which allowed:

Arfen Cherburun — 3

Route scheme "Oba-Na!" cat. VI, m. Aya, "Arfen" peak (235.2 m) Streltsov S., Zakutin A. 13–18.07.2001.

Tactical tips for wall passage.

I. Basing in the mouth of the Kazán-Dere tract allows:

• to carry out landing from small vessels and evacuation in sea roughness up to 3 points from all directions except "South-West", "West";
• to fully recover strength, since here, unlike "Lost World", there is no such abundance of noisy neighbors;
• to save money on renting a yawl;

Arfen-Cher-Burun — 2

Author: Pavel Slyusar, Kiev The story of climbing the "Rodeo" route 6A, VI, A3, 300 m To the southeast of Balaklava, approximately eight kilometers along the coastline, a 240-meter-high rock wall rises from the sea. This wall is a triangular-shaped cliff that closes the southwestern spur of the Arfen-Cher-Burun peak and is separated from the main massif by a deep gap. You can approach the foot of the wall by sea:

• in about an hour from Balaklava
• in half an hour from the Batiliman tract (Laspi settlement) The wall is striking in its steepness, regularity of shape, and smoothness of relief. It rises vertically from the sea and plunges just as vertically into the blue abyss to a depth of more than 80 meters. In the right part of the wall, like a silent guardian, a huge black cornice ominously overhangs the sea. When you sail away into the open sea, it becomes impossible to visually determine the proportions of the wall and the exact distance to it. Questions arise:

Arfen-Cher-Burun - 1. "Mirazh" Route 6A, VI, A

First ascenders: S. Streltsov - A. Lyapunov (1992) The section from Sevastopol to Balaklava is a sheer coast, in some places up to 200 m high. The area is heavily eroded. There are no cliffs suitable for climbing. Mt. Arfen-Cher-Burun, East wall. Arrows at the bottom indicate the route start To the east of Balaklava, the picture changes dramatically. About 5 km from Balaklava, along the coast, a 235-meter vertical rocky peak rises straight from the sea. This is a spur of the Arfen-Cher-Burun massif. It takes about 40 minutes to reach the foot of the wall by boat from Balaklava. Having a reliable floating craft is mandatory, as the first

Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Appenditsit" Route 4B

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Angarskaya wall. "Appenditsit" Route 4B (Samulev E. - start, Lishaev Yu. - finish).

A complex and tense line without drilled holes and auxiliary points on the crux. In some places, there are many loose rocks, and in some places, it's hard to organize belays. It can be rightfully considered the most challenging route on the entire wall. Equipment:

• hammers and pitons
• a set of quickdraws
• medium and large nuts
• medium and large cams.

Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Kosyaya" route 4B

Angarskaya wall. "Kosyaya" route 4B (Li­sha­ev Yu. (Fan­tik))

Required equipment:

• a set of quickdraws
• a set of nuts
• a set of cams
• hammers and pitons are desirable Large cams, hexes, as well as small nuts work well! Angarskaya wall. "Kosyaya" route 4B

Crimea, Angarskaya Wall. "Serp" Route 4B

Angarskaya Wall. "Serp" Route 4B Start: V. Zasypkin — Kh. Kornys (Simferopol). Finish: Yu. Chernyaev, A. Veselov, Yu. Tronov (Simferopol). The route starts from the memorial plaque in memory of A. Veselov. Routes and multipitches of Angarskaya Wall Angarskaya Wall. "Serp" Route 4B (orange line)

Technical description of the route:

Crimea, Angarskaya Wall. Route "Troyka" 3A

Angarskaya Wall. Classic via chimney 3A (V. Goncharov — V. Gumenyuk (Yalta)).

Equipment:

• Large-sized chocks
• Large friends/camalots
• Large-sized hexes
• 10 quickdraws Time to complete the route for an average team: 3 hours. On the far right in the photo: Route "Classic via chimney" 3A

Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Unitaz" route 3A

Angarskaya wall. "Unitaz" route 3A (total 4 pitches).

The route has many drilled belay anchors at all key sections. It can be recommended as a first 3A route for less confident climbers. Standard equipment. Routes of Angarskaya wall. "Unitaz" route 3A (green line)

Technical description of the route:

R0–R1: 40 m, IV. The start of the route is located 20 m to the right of "Acrophobia". The first belay anchor is visible from the ground.

• Up through a small overhang - a difficult section.
• Easier afterwards. Belay station on anchors. R1–R2: 30 m, III.

Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Cherez komnatu" Route 3A

Angarskaya wall. "Cherez komnatu" Route 3A (F6b–6c).

The route passes through the inner corner to the right of "Dвойка" (Two) and gradually transitions under the overhanging cornice. This section of the wall is the first to be shaded after noon. It is worth noting the logical placement of bolts:

• on difficult sections, bolts are more frequent
• on easier sections, they are less frequent Angarskaya wall. "Cherez komnatu" Route 3A (line on the photo - second from the left)

Technical description of the route: