Western Pamirs

Description of the first ascent of the route category 5B on the Eastern wall of the "Cold wall" peak (5979 m) in the Pamir Mountains, made by the team led by Nikolai Opoitsev in 1985.

Passport I. Class of first ascents Pamir, Havraz-Dara valley Peak "Kholodnaya Stena" via the bastions of the left part of the East wall Assumed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. Elevation gain 1619 meters. Average slope up to the ridge — 68°. Average slope up to the summit — 65°. Average slope of sections R23–R24 — 85°. R42–R48 — 85°. Piton placement | rock | bolt | chock | ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: |

Report on the ascent made by a group of climbers in 1980, following a grade 6 difficulty route up the eastern wall of Pik Kholodnaya Stena (5959 m) in the Pamir Mountains.

Ascent Log Ascent class — high-altitude and technical. Ascent area — Yazgulem Range, Central Pamir. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Kholodnaya Stena, 5959 m. Eastern wall (right part). Expected difficulty category — 6 Route characteristics: height difference — 1700 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty level — 1299 m, average steepness — 80° Number of driven pitons: for belaying, for creating artificial footholds: rock — 388/17

The ascent to the summit of Peak Dik Cold Wall (5959 m) via the northwest wall in the Pamir Mountains, category of difficulty 3B, made by a group in 1980.

Passport Ascent Details Ascent type: High-altitude technical climb Ascent region: Central Pamir, Maly Yazgulem ridge, Khavraz-Dara valley Peak: Dik Cold Wall, 5959 m, via the northwest route Anticipated difficulty category: 3B Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 1520 m length of 3rd category terrain — 420 m, average steepness — 28° Pitons used: for protection: rock — 15, camming devices — 11, ice screws — 3, bolted pitons — none. for creating artificial holds — none.

Description of the first ascent of the Kholodnaya Stena peak (5959 m) in the Central Pamir along the north-west ridge, made by a group of climbers in 1980.

REPORT on the first ascent of v. Kholodnaya Stena via the northwestern ridge, category 3B Group composition: Leader: Participants: Ponomarchuk V.S., CMS; Matveenko V.M., MS; Ivanov N.R., CMS; Krasnukhin L.I., CMS; Nastobursky A.N., CMS; Kapustina T.D., 1st sports category. 1980 Brief geographical overview

Report on the ascent of the Sports Club of the USSR Academy of Sciences team to Peak Fickert (6718 m) in the Pamir Mountains in 1960.

REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF PIK FIKKER (6718 m) BY THE SPORTS CLUB AN SSSR TEAM Pamir, July–August 1960 Map of the expedition area: 1 — Base camp, 2 — First cave, 3 — Second cave. Area of Operation Pik Fikker (see Figs. 1, 3) with a height of 6718 m is located approximately in the middle of the mountains of the southern Fedchenko group, bordering the right (orographic) bank of the upper reaches of the Fedchenko glacier (see photo scheme). To the north and south from Pik Fikker, the main ridges extend to other peaks of the southern Fedchenko group. The eastern slopes of Pik Fikker descend directly onto the Vitskovsky glacier, which flows into the Fedchenko glacier significantly to the north, and the western slopes feed a small (unnamed) glacier, also a tributary of the Fedchenko glacier. Below, we will refer to it as the Fikker glacier.

Route passport for the North Face of Peak 6113 in the Yazgulyam Range, Pamir Mountains, grade 5B, first ascent in 1985.

Passport High-altitude technical class Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge, Tanimass-3 lake area Peak "6113" via the right part of the northern wall Proposed — Category 5B difficulty, first ascent Elevation gain — 1200 m, wall section length — 1240 m, length of sections with Category 5B difficulty — 310 m, average steepness of the main (wall) part of the route — 64° (5050–6050 m) Pitons driven:

Report on the first ascent of the right part of the north face of peak BIIZ m in 1985 by the team of the Ukrainian SDSO "*Burevestnik*".

53a USSR Alpine Championship High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category Report on the first ascent of Peak 6113 m via the right part of the north face by the Ukrainian "Burevestnik" Sports Club team Team leader: I.V. Bozhko Coach: A.M. Bychek 1985, Ukrainian Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Club 252000, Kiev, Vorovsky St., 30-g, tel. 26-37-16

Description of the first ascent of the north wall of the 6113 m peak in the Yazgulem ridge of the Pamir Mountains by a team of climbers led by Alexander Bychok in 1985.

PASSPORT High-altitude technical climb Pamir, Yazgulyam Range, Tanymas-3 glacier. Peak 6113 m, center of the North face. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. Height difference 1200 m, length of the wall part of the route 1450 m. Length of sections with 5B category of difficulty - 620 m, 6B category of difficulty - 575 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 68° (4900–6060), including 6B category of difficulty 80° (5420–5970). Pitons driven: | rock | nut | bolt | ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |

### Description of the first ascent of Peak 6113.5 in the Vysokaya Stena range in the Pamir Mountains in 1962, with a detailed account of the route and challenges faced.

Description First Ascent of Peak 6113.5 m Geographical Information Peak 6113.5 m (photo 1) is located in the southeastern part of the Fedchenko Glacier, in the Vysokaya Stena range. Four glaciers originate from its slopes: The northern slopes give rise to the Tanymas 3 glacier; The western slopes feed the second (unnamed) glacier, which is a right tributary of the Fedchenko Glacier; On the southwest, a third (unnamed) glacier flows, which is the last right tributary of the Vitkovsky Glacier; To the south flows the fourth glacier, also a right tributary of the Vitkovsky Glacier. Approaches The group of first ascensionists approached Peak 6113.5 m on July 27, 1962, from the base camp (altitude 3900 m) located on the shore of a lake at the confluence of the Kaskadny Glacier with the Abdukagor Glacier.

Expedition of Tartu University Alpine Club to Pamir, ascent to the peak 6350 m via North-West ridge, 5A difficulty category.

Brief Characteristics of the Ascent 4.1. Ascent Passport Ascent class: high-altitude and technical Ascent area, ridge: Central Pamir, Vysokaya Stena ridge Peak: Tartu University – 350 years height 6350 m ascent route: from Lake Tanymas II via the northwest ridge Proposed category of difficulty: 5A Route characteristics: height difference: 850 m