Mshatka-Kaya. Eastern bastion, variation of the route "Po uglu" 5A (V A1 240 m (5 pitches) t 5–7 h). E. Poltavets (Kharkov) and V. Makoed (Odessa) 2013.

The line passes through the inner corner with a non-monolithic relief. The route is prone to rockfall.

You can approach the start of the route from the left, like for route №?. There's also an option to approach via the couloir separating Mshatka-Kaya and Zamok: from the road, go up the scree path, overcome a несложную стенку and ascend towards the couloir separating the massifs. Then follow the couloir.

The cork is bypassed on the left via rocks (10 m II).

From the couloir:

  • left and up to the ridge (30 m I),
  • then right and up to a large tree at the base of the wall.

After rain and during snowmelt, the couloir is prone to rockfall.

Route description: img-0.jpeg

The yellow thread represents the old 5A route, the red one — the new variation R0–R1 30 m. Approach the wall. Go 10 meters up the left corner. Cross right and via slabs (anchors) reach the right crack. Then go up to a ledge with a small tree. Reinforce the station.

30 m V A1

R1–R2 45 m

Along the ledge to the left, to the corner — a chimney. Up the corner, then up the right wall (carrot) to a ledge with a tree. Then up the corner to a pine "protected" by a stone. Station here, or on a tree above.

  • 10 m II
  • 20 m V
  • 10 m II
  • 5 m IV

R2­–R3 60 m

Up the overgrown corner. Overcome a 5-meter chimney and approach the overhang, pass it via the left crack. Reach a sloping ledge, then left along it, and then up to a small tree. Reinforce the station. This pitch is very prone to rockfall!

  • 15 m III
  • 5 m V
  • 10 m III
  • 10 m IV
  • 10 m V
  • 10 m II

R3­–R4 45 m. Up to the overhang. Via the left crack, complex climbing up, reach the leveling. Then two variations are possible.

Left variation — go left into the overgrown inner corner and along it, and then via a slab, move to a tree; station here.

Right variation — 5 m along a cleft with convenient edges to a small ledge, then via a wall with a crack reach simple rocks. Station on a pine.

Left variation:

  • 25 m V+ A1
  • 20 m III

Right variation:

  • 25 m V+ A1
  • 10 m V+
  • 5 m III

R4­–R5 60 m. Left and up along the corner, then left to a tree. Then up via the simplest path to the summit.

  • 50 m IV+
  • 10 m III

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment