Mshatka-Kaya — 14

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Hi-Res photo of Mshatka-Kaya "Ryzhiy vyval" ("Red landslide") — the green line on the photograph

Mshatka-Kaya "Ryzhiy vyval" (55)

Route by Yu. Lishayov ("Fantik"), Crimea

Back to the main page of "Mshatka-Kaya. Three routes"

Author: Alexander Lavriyenko ("Odessit"), Odessa

The route passes to the right of the central bastion of Mshatka-Kaya. It is visited extremely rarely. The beginning coincides with the "Treugolnik sleva" ("Triangle on the left") route.

Having passed along the "Treugolnik" for two ropes (50 m 70IV and 50 m 60III),

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"Ryzhiy vyval" — Lishayov's route 5B

move upwards, in the direction of the "red" spot under the cornices.

From the belay point upwards to a small tree. (40 m 70° IV)

Further upwards — left along the crack between the "nashlyopka" and the wall, then along the plate (20 m 80° VI), transition to a small internal corner, and up along it. (20 m 85° VIA2). Belay point on a small ledge.

Further upwards along the plate (10 m 70° V+), then through the overhang (15 m 95° VIA3), exit into a huge internal corner — belay point.

Further up along the left side of the internal corner (20 m 70° IV+), then along simple rocks 30 m 60° II to reach the summit.

Route description by sections

R0–R1 Simple rocks 100 m 50–60° I

R1–R3

  • Internal corners
  • Walls
  • Ledges to the right — upwards

100 m 65° IV–III

R3–R4 Crack, internal corner. 40 m 70° IV (chocks, friends)

R4–R5

  • Along the crack 10 m 80° VI
  • Then along the wall 5 m 80° VI
  • Transition to the internal corner 20 m 85° VIA2 (chocks)

R5–R6 Along the plate 15 m 70° V+, approach under the overhang, passable mainly on pitons 15 m 95° VIA3 (piton placements, chocks)

R6–R7

  • Along the left side of the internal corner 20 m 70° IV+
  • Then along simple rocks to reach the summit.

Sources

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