Miatka-Kaya (618 m) — 24. "Diktat dozhdya" (Rain Dictate), 5B

The route was climbed on March 13-14, 2017, by the team:

• Zagirnyak Mikhail
• Pugachëv Sergey, in 12 hours

The approach starts from the observation deck below Foros, going up the trail, and then along simple rocks and trails, traversing to the right in the direction of the "Triangulyatsiya" route.

Passing the beginning of the ascent to the "Uho" route, move up to the right, towards a large group of trees under the main wall. The start of the route is on the left side of the wall, on implicit ledges.

R0–R1: 40 m, I–II, 50°; When processing or carrying heavy backpacks, the first rope can be hung and a piton station organized 10 m below the large group of pine trees under the wall. Standing by the pine tree under the wall is extremely uncomfortable.

Railing Station at R0–R1

Start of R1–R2

R1–R2: 45 m, VI, A1–A2, 75°;

From the station to the pine tree under the wall. From the pine tree, move up to the old rappel station (10 m) and then to the left along inclined slabs.

Protection in a deep monolithic oblique crack. Then up to a bolt.

Continuation of R1–R2 section

R2–R3: 38 m, V+, A1, 65°; from the station to the right, through a small overhang to the next bolt (7 m). Then to the left towards the pine tree, clearly visible against the sky. To the left part of the large ledge, visible from below as a large sickle. Station on the pine tree.

R3–R4: 47 m, VI+, A2–A3, 75°; From the station, traverse to the left, along a grassy ledge among pine trees. Then up under the slab. Along the slab, up-left (5 skyhooks and more) in the direction of an implicit internal corner, leading under a large pine tree on a huge grassy-talus ledge in the middle part of the wall. It is highly desirable to place several protection points at the beginning of the section for rope dragging.

R4–R5: 50 m, I, 35°; Along the grassy-talus slope under the pine tree in the direction of the "Uho" route.

R5, R6, R7, R8: The remaining sections coincide with the "Uho" route.

Impressions and recommendations:

The route is not straightforward for familiarization with this section of the wall. Dubble skyhooks are necessary on the route. The authors will try to complete the logical line of the route in the near future.