ASCENT REPORT

to the summit of Mt. Chyorny Utyos (759 m) via the north-eastern ridge (Primorsky Krai, Partizansky District, Lozovy Range) Report compiled based on the ascent on May 4, 2018. Khabarovsk Regional Public Organization "Khabarovsk Regional Alpine Federation" Compiled by Morkovin Roman Olegovich Khabarovsk 2018

Ascent Passport

1. Location: Primorsky Krai, Partizansky District, Lozovy Range
2. Mt. Chyorny Utyos, 759 meters, via the north-eastern ridge.

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE PEAK ELEV. 1811 («G. DZYUBA-ZAPADNAYA») VIA THE CENTRAL RIDGE OF THE NORTHERN SLOPE, CATEGORY 1B DIFFICULTY, BY THE TEAM OF KHABAROVSK REGIONAL ORGANIZATION «KHABAROVSK REGIONAL FEDERATION OF ALPINISM» ON JUNE 24, 2018

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Krasnolutsky Alexander Vyacheslavovich, CMS
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Kurdyukov Vasily Vladimirovich, 2nd sports rank, Antonov Anton Igorevich, AR, Gorokhov Kirill Gennadievich, AR, Ermolina Alena Evgenievna, AR, Lairova Elena Vladimirovna, AR, Muzychishin Oleg Anatolyevich, AR, Kochegarova Elena Vladimirovna, no rank, Chebanov Pavel Vladimirovich, no rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Krasnolutsky Alexander Vyacheslavovich, CMS

Report

On the First Ascent to the Summit

Mt. Taunga (Sikhote-Alin Ridge) Via the central ridge of the northern slope, 2A category of complexity (winter, snow-ice) by the team of Khabarovsk Regional Public Organization "Khabarovsk Regional Alpine Federation" November 5, 2016

I. Ascent Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Kurdyukov Vasily Vladimirovich, instr. №197
1.2	Full name, sports rank of participants	Donskov Andrey Mikhailovich, 1st sports rank, Gorokhov Kirill Gennadievich, no rank, Chekmareva Evgeniya Borisovna, no rank

Mt. Tsoya (2130 m) – Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m), category 2A

From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace of the left bank of the Ulun River, move 40 minutes downstream. Having rounded the entire Northeast ridge of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok, reach the foot of Mt. 1942. The ascent to Mt. Tsoya is done along the Northeast ridge via Mt. 1942. The right slope of the ridge is covered with very dense firn, movement is only possible in crampons. The time taken to move along the ridge to Mt. Tsoya is 2–2.5 hours. Insurance is simultaneous. Mt. Tsoya is a snow-covered dome. Further movement from the summit along the Southeast ridge:

• Insurance is simultaneous.
• Movement is in crampons.
• After 20–25 minutes, reach a large "gendarme" which is overcome "head-on".
• The use of pitons or camming devices is possible.
• The further ridge is heavily dissected, several small 20–30-meter "gendarmes" are encountered, passable "head-on" with alternating insurance.
• 1 hour 20–30 minutes after the large "gendarme", reach the summit tower.

1. via the left edge of the E. ridge, 2B
2. via the right edge of the E. ridge, 4A

Via the right edge of the Eastern ridge, 4A category of difficulty

From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace on the left bank of the Ulun river, proceed to the gorge of Mt. Tsoy to the start of the route. This takes 1–1.5 hours. Then:

• Ascend 200 m along the snowy slope;
• further, move along the slabs and internal corner to reach a snow shelf 30 m;
• at the upper part of the corner, there is a plug and an awkward transition;
• then move 160 m along moderately difficult rocks to the base of a large "gendarme" — it is clearly visible from below;

1. Left edge of the E ridge, 2B
2. Right edge of the E ridge, 4A

Left edge of the East ridge, 2B cat. difficulty

From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace of the left bank of the Ulun river, move downstream. Round the entire North-Eastern ridge of peak Khabarovskikh Alpinistok and reach the far end of the Coya cirque to the start of the route. The approach takes 40 minutes on skis. At the beginning of the route be attentive — there are dangerous couloirs on the left and right. Climb 150 m to the beginning of the edge. The beginning of the ascent passes along gently sloping, heavily snow-covered rocks about 100 m to the base of the first large "gendarme". It is passed on the right along rather technically complex internal corners and slabs (key section 95 m). Then 100 m at the same time to the base of the second large "gendarme". Pass it:

• on the right along the slabs,
• or straight up along the crevice 40 m (second key section).

9. Descriptions of Ascent Routes to Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m)

Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m) – Mt. Ulun (2221 m), Category 1B Difficulty

From the base camp, move along the left tributary of the Ulun River, then towards the Edelweiss Pass. After 20–30 minutes of walking, start ascending up and to the right along the Eastern Counterfort of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m). After 1 hour and 10 minutes of ascent along a relatively simple snow-covered ridge with step-kicking, reach the Northeast Ridge of the summit, then continue along it for 20 minutes to the summit. The ridge is not steep and is snow-covered, but mutual belay is necessary due to the presence of snow cornices. Crampons are mandatory! The summit of Khabarovskikh Alpinistok is a pyramid with steep walls dropping to the Southwest and Southeast. The further path is clearly visible from the summit. The traverse follows the ridge directed from North to South. Characteristics of the ridge:

• rocky, fairly narrow;
• drops steeply on both sides with walls up to 60 m deep;
• partially snow-covered, which somewhat simplifies movement;
• features low "gendarme" formations that can only be overcome head-on.

Route Descriptions for Climbing Fregat Peak

Via the Central Counterfort, Category 2B

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Ulun River towards Fregat Peak, heading towards the central counterfort. After 1 hour, start ascending via the couloir, keeping to its right side. In the upper part, the couloir becomes steeper, leading to a wide snow-ice chimney. Climbing is tense. In the upper part of the chimney, there are "live," slightly overhanging, crosswise blocks that require careful passage. It is recommended to set up a station or belay above them, in the lower part of a small chimney that leads to the ridge. Further movement is possible:

• Simultaneous or alternating movement to the gendarme (the first key point of the route). A sloping shelf to the right of it transitions into a steep, snow-covered wall with ice in the crevices. After passing it, we enter a steep internal angle with smooth walls, leading to the top of the gendarme, where a station needs to be set up. Subsequent movement occurs strictly along the ridge, requiring accuracy and attention. After the ridge, depending on the route's condition, one can:
• Go through an icy chimney with a transition to the wall and ascend it to the left,
• Or move along the right wall of the chimney, only reaching the wall in its upper part. The last 40 meters of the counterfort, as well as further movement along the ridge to the summit, must be done in alternating steps, carefully belaying, as a fall from here could have the most severe consequences.

Edelweiss Pass Route

Eastern Ridge Route, Category 1B difficulty

Traverse of Khabarovsk Climbers Peak

Descent from the Routes

Via the Eastern Counterfort, Category 1B difficulty. From the camp to the start of the route takes 20–25 minutes.

Section	Length	Steepness, °	Description
R0–R1	80 m	25°	Old snow
R1–R2	100 m	30°	Steep slope

Through Edelweiss Pass, Category 1B

Section	Length	Steepness	Difficulty	Description
R0–R1	250	30–40	1–2	Pressing against the left edge, upper part
R1–R2	300	25	1	Snow cornices on the right for the entire length of the section; move along the slope upwards at a distance of 10–15 m from the ridge. Simultaneously.
R2–R3	8	45	2	Bypass the cornice. Alternating belay.
R3–R4	450		1	Simultaneous movement along the ridge, belay over the ridge. Three distinct pinnacles. The first is bypassed on the right. The second — on the left.
R4–R5	10	48	2	The third pinnacle of the ridge is climbed head-on along an inclined edge. Alternating belay. Loose rocks.
R5–R6	50		1	Pre-summit rise along the ridge.
It is recommended to start the ascent before 7:00 AM. In this case, the pass is overcome before it is exposed to the sun.