Traverse of peaks Ozyorny - Khimik, combined, Category 3

Route description:

From the Ulutau alpine base through the sports ground, where the trail begins, which goes past the former "Churko dorm", then along the stream (to the left of the stream), flowing from under the glacier on the northern slope of the "Treugolnik" peak. Further, the trail turns left and goes along the rocky outcrops to the training rocks "over the camp". Here the trail is lost, you need to move up the grassy slopes to the moraine deposits and further along the moraine deposits and ascents up past the cirques of the Treugolnik and Moskovsky Komsomolets peaks to Ozyorny lake. There are bivouac sites near the lake. Going around the lake to the right, you come out onto the Ozyorny glacier. Straight ahead will be the ridge between peaks Zimny and Ozyorny (a pronounced depression in the ridge). You need to move not to this ridge, but to move along the glacier to the right along the long "fence" of the Northwest ridge of peak Ozyorny to a wide snow, in the lower part scree, couloir with a clearly visible ridge in the ridge before the gendarme. Up the couloir to the right past rocky outcrops (to the right) to the ridge. The first gendarme is bypassed on the left along the shelves, then exit to the right onto the ridge and further along the ridge to the next gendarme, which can be bypassed on the right along the shelves and come out onto a large snow ridge, from which the pre-summit snow and ice ascents open up. Here it is possible to organize a bivouac, since further movement goes entirely on snow, which in the second half of the day becomes very soggy.

58. Triangle — Khimik

(combined route by D. Sukhodolsky, category 3B, fig. 5, 6). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the old right-bank moraine of the Azot glacier is described in route 52. From the moraine, turn right and ascend via scree and easy, broken rocks of the couloir to the saddle of the Western ridge of Triangle peak. From the alpine camp, 2.5-3 hours. On the saddle, turn left and ascend 80-100 m via easy rocks of the Western ridge to below a rock wall. From under the wall, traverse several gendarmes via easy, straightforward rocks and scree on the right side of the Western ridge, and then traverse (with belay) across the ice-snow slope to below a rock tower. Traverse the tower along the boundary between the ice-snow slope and rocks, and then ascend to a col below the summit spire. From the col, ascend via steep, straightforward monolithic rocks of the Western ridge's spire to the summit of Triangle.

• From the right-bank moraine: 3-4 hours
• From Ullutau alpine camp: 6-7 hours From Triangle summit, descend via easy rocks of the Eastern ridge to a saddle. Then, traverse along the ice-snow slope on the left side of the wide, gendarme-studded ridge of the long saddle to below a large gendarme, Rock. Traverse the gendarme to the right (with belay), ascending behind it to the ridge, and then follow the straightforward ridge, passing low gendarmes head-on, to below the Trapezium gendarme. Ascend the Trapezium via steep, moderately difficult rocks (with piton belay) of the ridge. From Trapezium, descend via moderately difficult rocks of the ridge to a saddle, and then traverse along the saddle, passing the Small gendarme head-on (with belay), to below the summit tower of Moskovsky Komsomolets. From here, ascend via steep slabs and moderately difficult rocks of the Western ridge (with piton belay) to the summit of Moskovsky Komsomolets. From Triangle, 4-5 hours.

Fig. 6

45. Khimik via the East Ridge (combined route, category IIb, Figs. 5, 6)

The path from the Ullutau base camp (group of 4-12 people) to the saddle of the ridge connecting the peaks of Khimik and Adyrsu, with the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Severny Adyrsu glacier or on its upper snow plateau, is described in route 43. At the saddle, turn left and exit onto the East Ridge of Khimik peak via simple rocky terrain. Further along the monolithic simple rocks of the narrow, snow-covered, long East Ridge, approach the base of the Big Gendarme. From there, traverse along the ledges and ice-snow slope on the right side of the East Ridge (belay) to the couloir. Ascend 50-60 m up the snow-covered, narrow, rocky couloir with a plug in the middle section ("live" rocks, piton belay) to the shoulder of the Big Gendarme. From the shoulder, exit onto the Big Gendarme via simple rocks. From the gendarme, ascend to the summit of Khimik via simple, местами medium-difficulty, разрушенным snow-covered rocks of the East Ridge. From the initial bivouac on the Severny Adyrsu glacier plateau or its left-bank moraine, it takes 6-8 hours.

Fig. 6

46. Himik via the Left rib of the North tower of the North ridge (combined route by A. Naumov, cat. 4B, fig. 5, 6). The path from the Djailyk alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the Yunom glacier with an initial bivouac at the "Sredne-Kichkidarskiye nochyovki" is described in route 73. From the nochyovki, cross the Yunom glacier to the right and ascend the gentle snow slope to reach the snow-covered talus terrace on the left side of the Left rib of the North tower of Himik peak. Traverse the talus ledges of the terrace to the left, beneath the Left rib of the North tower. From the ledge, ascend 80 m up the moderately difficult rock of the rib to a vertical wall. Below the wall, make a short traverse to the right and ascend the moderately difficult rock of a 15-20 m steep internal corner to reach the wall. From here, ascend 160-180 m up and to the left through moderately difficult rock ("live" stones), passing:

• internal corners,
• ledges,
• alternating with short walls of above moderate difficulty and difficult rock,
• beneath the left side of a huge inclined slab - a balcony. Ascend a difficult 15-20 m wall to reach the slab - balcony, and traverse it to its upper left corner. From the slab-balcony, ascend 80-100 m up and to the left through a chimney - crevice, then traverse along a ledge to reach the right chimney - crevice and ascend another 80-100 m. Bypass the rock plug in the upper part:

SPORTING AND TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT OBJECT Khimik 5AK to the S wall with crest The "Khimik" peak (3935 m) is located on the western spur of the "Adyr-Su" peak. There are two routes to the summit. The first ascent of "Khimik" was made by a group led by Yuryev A. on August 15, 1951, during the traverse of Khimik—Treugolnik. The ice and snow slopes of "Khimik" towards the "Yunom" glacier end in sheer walls of the Northern tower. In 1971, a group led by Naumov A. laid a 4B category route along the left edge of this tower. In 1980, a group led by R. Efimov passed a route along the North-Eastern wall of the right edge of the Northern tower. In the upper part of the route, not noticing a simple exit to the right edge, the group:

• traversed along a ledge to the left under a large cornice;
• ascended to the Northern tower along the wall between the left and right edges. The second passage of the route was made in 1981 by the duo Gnaevsky—Bratsev. This group reached the edge at the level of the traverse of the first ascenders and ascended to the Northern tower along it. The further path of both groups coincided with the 4B category route. In this report, the sports group from "Dzhailyk" alpine camp describes the path taken along the variant of the second ascenders. We consider this path more logical and safer. During the ascent, the group observed rockfalls passing along the upper part of the path of the first ascenders.

The climbing area is the Central Caucasus — a spur of the Adyrsky ridge. The peak is Khimik. Difficulty category — 88.45. The height of the peak is 3935 m Route characteristics:

• Altitude difference — 1000 m
• Length of sections 5–6 km — 185 m
• Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 68°
• Number of pitons hammered, number of placements used: rock placements — 71, chocks — 15
• Total number of climbing hours without approaches and descent — 14 Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:
• 1st — lower kichkidarskie bivouacs, sandy grounds

Report

On the first ascent to v. Khimik (3935 m) via the inner corner of the left part of the North-Eastern wall of the Northern ridge in the period from July 16 to 18, 2009 by the sports group of AUSB "Ullutau" consisting of:

• Nikolaev A.V. – leader
• Kabaev R.G. – participant
• Starykh A.N. – participant AUSB "Ullutau" 2009

Addresses

AUSB "Ullutau" 361602, KBR, Nalchik, Tel. 8-8662-77-09-87 LEADER

Report

on the ascent to Pik Khimik, second passage of the route on the right part of the bastion of the S. wall of the S. ridge (Didora, 2009) Team Coach:

• Timoshenko T.A.
• Semiletkin S.A. Leader: Murin E.G. Participant: Shabelnikov S.V. St. Petersburg, 2010

Climbing Passport

1. Prielbrusye, Adyrsu gorge, section 2.4.1.