Vils

The Vils peak (3861 m) is located in the northeastern part of the Kalper ridge, between Shulgina peak and Passionaria summit. Above the Skazdona valley, Vils rises with steep rocky slopes and walls. In the Hissar gorge, a simple South ridge descends from the peak, separating the Vils glacier to the east from Passionaria to the west. Under the southwestern slopes of Vils lies a small hanging glacier, Western Passionaria. The following ridges have no routes to the peak yet:

• North ridge
• Southwest ridge

Route Description

From the sites under the buttress, along the talus shelves in the direction of the buttress with a large sharp ledge (150 m). The ascent to the buttress begins along a wide internal angle ("live" stones - belay) through rocks of medium difficulty. Further on, along simple rocks, bypassing the large sharp ledge of the buttress on the right side. Here is the control cairn. From the control cairn, traverse to the right with an exit to a small site under a 40 m slab-like wall. Along the 40-meter wall (pitons belay, key point of the route). Ascent to the buttress to a large boulder lying separately, which is bypassed on the right. Further on, along simple and medium difficulty rocks on the left side of the buttress in the direction of the "triangle" formed by the depression in the buttress. The "triangle" is bypassed on the right along simple rocks ("live" stones). Further ascent to the buttress and along rocks of medium difficulty (belays through ledges) with small walls upwards in the direction of the saddle between the buttress and the ridge of Peak Vils. On the saddle, there is a large site (there is a place for a tent). From the site upwards along the talus (there may be snow) ascent upwards and to the left (150 m) in the direction of the destroyed north-western edge of Peak Vils, representing 3 large "gendarmeries". The "gendarmeries" are bypassed on the left along simple and medium difficulty rocks on the right side of the couloir ("live" stones, belay). From the third "gendarmerie", exit along simple and medium difficulty rocks ("live" stones - belay) to a large snow site under the summit. From it, along the talus (possibly snow-ice) slope, ascent to Peak Vils. Estimated time to complete the route is 6–8 hours. Descent along the ascent path. From the large boulder lying separately on the buttress, 40 m rappel. Descent along the South ridge of Peak Vils, category 2A, is also possible.

Brief Description of the Approach to the Route

Description of the route 3Б cat. sl. to Peak Vils, 4,100 m. Approaches.

From A/L "Tsey" 1.2 km south (A = 195) to the entrance to a wide couloir falling from the northwest walls of Peak Vils. Then move up the couloir. The couloir is cut by a narrow canyon; one should move to the left of the canyon (on the orographic right side of the couloir) up to its beginning, vertically upwards, 1.2 km. At the place where the canyon begins, there are spots for tents. Bypassing the canyon from above, traverse a steep scree slope - about 300 m (with caution, all upper couloirs are stone-hazardous, especially the southern one!) to a rocky counterfort; bypass the counterfort from below, then move up and to the left to its upper part - about 200 m to the overnight stay. The overnight stays are located on a scree section in the upper part of the counterfort, 100–150 m from the NW ridge of Peak Vils. The ascent from A/L "Tsey" to the overnight stays is approximately 1.3 km, taking around 6 hours.

Route.

From the overnight stays, move towards the ridge in the direction of the counterfort with a pronounced rock outcrop. There are two possible variants along scree ledges and easy rocks to the ridge; once on the ridge, climb easy and moderately difficult rocks to a horizontal ledge going left, 0.5–1 m wide, then along the ledge (about 30 m) to a clearly defined internal angle. Alternatively: from the overnight stays, along easy and moderately difficult rocks and scree ledges, directly under the counterfort to a horizontal ledge 0.5–1 m wide, in the left part resting against an internal angle. From this ledge begins the key section of the route.

Report

ON ASCENT TO PIK Vil'sa VIA NORTH-WEST EDGE, 5A CAT. DIFF. TEAM OF MGS DSO "ZENIT" LEADER V. Tyninkin Moscow 1972

Brief Characteristics of the Ascent Area

Tsey region is one of the main alpine centers in the Caucasus. It is distinguished by an exceptional variety and beauty of gorges. The height of the peaks in the region is over 4000 m. The highest point of the region, Mt. Uilpata, has a height of 4648 m. The height of Pik Vil'sa is 4100 m. Most routes are combined, significant glaciation of the region (Tsey and Skavish glaciers) determines the presence of complex snow and ice sections on the routes. The weather is comparatively unstable. This to a certain extent complicates ascents.

28. VILS Peak via the Northwest Ridge /combined route, cat. 5A/ From the base camp in the direction of the Green hill on the moraine of the Skaaz glacier to the point where you turn left into the couloir leading under the Vils wall. The landmark is the top of the wall, which has a characteristic trapezoidal shape. Follow the scree into the couloir, then follow the snow, keeping to the right side of the couloir. (The couloir is rockfall-prone) walk on the rocks to the right, and higher up on the snow (40°, 200–250 m) to the narrowing of the couloir opposite the rocky ridge with gendarmes leading under the peak wall. Cross the couloir with an avalanche gully (belay via ice axe) to the rocky ridge. First control point: straight up the ridge rocks to the "gendarmes". Overcome the "gendarmes" head-on, descend through the cleft down into the couloir. Then, on the left side of the couloir, bypassing the gendarmes. In the couloir, there is flow ice (50°, piton belay). To the right along the scree rocks. Then bypass the gendarmes on the left along the ice (step cutting, piton belay) to the internal corner to the right, leading to the beginning of the first wall. From the first gendarme to the beginning of the wall is 250 m. Along the internal corner and then left-up to a narrow shelf at the beginning of the wall. Control point. The wall is monolithic with a limited number of holds. Straight up through the clefts (20 m, 80°) traverse to the right into a recess (good belay point) and left-up to a ledge. The ledge is to the right and up to a two-meter shelf. Along the crack above the shelf to a wide cleft and straight along it to a ledge for belay (90 m, piton belay). Then up along the feather-like steep rocks to a gendarme on the ridge. No water. Snow in the couloir to the right. Control point. Bypassing the gendarmes to the right (piton belay 40 m). Then along the slabs (45–50°, piton belay) to the right and up under the second wall (200 m).

151

Counter traverse + Φ Rock with piton 40 m, 80° V 60 m, 65° IV+ 8

Appendix No. 2 to the Unified Requirements for the Report for Classification REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF PIK VILSA VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE ROUTE, 5A CATEGORY OF COMPLEXITY by a team from RSO-Alania from 3:00 to 5:00 September 2024

I. Ascent Passport