Route №12 “Zub”

(D. Popov, A. Shelkhakov, 1999) 5B V+ A2 345 m (10 pitches). Average completion time — 5–7 hours. A long and infrequently visited route. Some intermediate pitons are unreliable. Navigate through the boulder field to reach the base of a massive chimney-fissure. Follow the wall to the right, towards the flake “Zub”. The route starts on the large flake “Zub” leaning against the wall. From the top of the flake, the route transitions to the main wall, then to a large ledge. From the left part of the ledge, the route goes up through a series of internal corners. The exit to the yayla is via a piton traverse through an overhang. R0–R1: 35 m. Up the monolithic wall on the left side of “Zub” to the right, towards a tree. Pitons are present. Belay station on a tree. 35 m V+. R1–R2: 20 m. Up the slab, exit to a gentler slope. Belay station on a tree. 20 m V+ A1. R1–R2: 20 m. Up the slab, exit to a gentler slope. Belay station on a tree. 20 m V+ A1. R2–R3: 20 m. Descend into a gap between “Zub” and the main wall. Swing pendulum-style to the wall and reach the belay station. 20 m.

11

Chelebi (657 m). Scolopendra

Massif: Chelebi (657 m) Difficulty: 5B Author: Lavrinenko A., Polyakov M. Route description:

• 0–1 Start — behind a large rock standing near the wall, upwards through cracks, in the direction of a large tree, the rightmost one. Near the tree — a belay station, a comfortable ledge. 27 m IV 2–3 Upwards through a system of corners, climbing + ITO, there are holes for skyhooks, 2 bolts, exit onto a destroyed ledge, here is a bolt. From it, upwards to the right, careful climbing, to a tree. On the tree, a belay station.
• 50 m

Chelebi — 8

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko, Odessa Che­le­bi, Crimea. Descriptions of alpinist routes The Che­le­bi massif is located in the western part of the Main ridge of the Crimean mountains, between the "Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta" pass and the Il'­yas-Ka­ya mountain. Relative height 200 m, absolute height 600 m above sea level. Despite the relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty pass through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (e.g., Bershov's route, there are several ascents per day). Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and the right. The left path (if looking towards the sea) is shorter:

• Follow the yayla along the cliff towards the Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta for about 600–700 m.
• Near the descent couloir, there is a group of trees.
• Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.

Chelebi — 7

Author: Aleksandr Lav­ri­nen­ko, Odessa Che­le­bi, Crimea. Descriptions of alpinist routes The Che­le­bi massif is located in the western part of the Main Ridge of the Crimean Mountains, between the "Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta" pass and the Il'­yas-Ka­ya mountain. The relative height is 200 m, the absolute height is 600 m above sea level. Despite the relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty have been laid through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (for example, the Ber­shov route, there can be several ascents per day). Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and from the right. The left path (if looking towards the sea) is shorter:

• Follow the yaila along the cliff towards the Bai­dar Gates for about 600–700 m.
• Near the descent couloir, there is a group of trees.
• Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.

Chelebi — 4

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa Chelebi, Crimea. Descriptions of mountaineering routes The Chelebi massif is located in the western part of the Main Ridge of the Crimean Mountains, between the "Baidarskie Vorota" pass and Ilias-Kaya mountain. Relative height is 200 m, absolute height is 600 m above sea level. Despite its relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty pass through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (for example, Bershov's route, there are sometimes several ascents per day). Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and from the right:

• The left path (if you look at the sea) is shorter: you need to go along the yayla along the cliff towards the Baidarskie Vorota for about 600–700 m.
• Near the descent couloir, a group of trees grows.
• Down the steep scree, then to the right along the wall.

«Belka»

The route passes in the left part of the Chelebi bastion. The start is to the left of the «Strelka» Suslov's route, approximately twenty meters away. Up a vertical internal corner between two slabs:

• free climbing 5 cat. diff. — 10 m to a ledge (on the first two pitons, loops hang for orientation).
• from the ledge 15–20 m up a thin crack and so on A2 (skyhooks may be needed) to a rusty ledge. On the rusty ledge, it's possible to make a station (there's an old rusty piton with a loop, approximately 30 m from the ground). From the ledge upwards, first along the crack, then skyhooks in the direction of the cornice. The cornice is passed in the left part. Behind the cornice, to the right, to a good crack. On the second drilled hole, there's a station. The section is 30 m and A2. There are six drilled pitons:
• The lower one is rusty, left over from Suslov's attempt. Then, along good cracks, straight up in the direction of the white internal corner. местами лазание, местами и.т.о. A1. The section is 40 m. The station is at the base of the white internal corner, there's a drilled piton. Up the corner 20 m and A2 to the junction with «Strelka».

Che­le­bi — 16

Route №16 «Pavlova»

5A VI A1 275 m (6 pitches). Average passage time — 4–6 hours. The main part of the route goes through the center of the monolithic wall. On the way, climbers will encounter many old rock pitons and anchors, which do not inspire confidence. The start coincides with routes №13–15. In addition, movement can begin along the first pitch of route №17. R0–R1: 30 m. Along the ledge, go left to the tree. From it, 20 meters up through simple rocks. Belay station on the tree. Transition:

• 10 m — I

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