Уларг

Description of a combined route, category 4B difficulty level, to the peaks Ucharg and Songuti in the Tsey area via the Eastern ridge and the peak Komsomolets.

Ularg — Songuti (combined route by R. Andreev, cat. 4B). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Ularg via the East ridge is described in route 143. From the summit of Ularg, descend along the moderately difficult rocks of the ridge ("live" stones) towards Pik Komsomolets. Then descend left along the snowy couloir to a snowy saddle and along it (cornice) approach Pik Komsomolets. From the saddle: along the ice-snow ridge, then along simple rocks — ascend to Pik Komsomolets. From Pik Komsomolets: along simple rocks, then along the snowy ridge — descend to the snowy saddle. Along the saddle (cornices) approach the Black Gendarme. Traverse the Black Gendarme from the right along a steep ice-snow slope for 65–70 m along the rocks (pitons), then 100–120 m along steep rocks.

First ascent of Ulcharg peak (4320 m) via the bastions of the North Face, made by the team of the Ukrainian Republican Council Burevestnik Sports Society, category 5B.

Ukrainian Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports and Recreation Society Mt. UlarG, 4320 m, via the bastions of the North Face Team Composition: Bodnik V.N. Bychek A.M. Barsukov V.A. Bozhko I.V. Derkach A.A. Kharianyk I.V. 1980

Report on the first ascent of Ullarg peak (4326 m) via the North wall, category II difficulty, completed in 1968.

148 Report On the first ascent to the summit of Ullarg (4320 m) via the North face, accomplished by the team from the "Tsey" alpine camp from August 4 to 9, 1968 USSR Alpine Championship 1968. Technical ascents category Moscow, 1968 Fig. 1. The North face of Ullarg summit. (Taken from the upper reaches of Songuti glacier on August 5, 1968) Team Composition Captain:

### Ascent Certificate for a Peak in the Central Ridge Section Category: 5B difficulty. Technically challenging ascent with an elevation gain of 1100 m.

Ascent Passport Ascent class Ascent area — technical. Central part of the mountain range, between the peak to the Southwest and the saddle to the East. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Ularg, 4320 m, via the bastions of the North face. Expected difficulty category — 5B. Route characteristics: Height difference — 1100 m, length — 1212 m, average steepness — 68°. Length of sections: 2 — 70 m, 3 — 25 m, 4 — 460 m, 5 — 430 m, 6 — 227 m. Pitons hammered in: for belaying rock — 104

### Jaapf Peak Ascent (4670 m) in Abkhazia Ascent via the southern slope, route description, and complexity category.

V. ULARG VIA NORTH-WEST COUNTERFORCE, 5A cat. diff. ONIANI PEAK WEST RIDGE ARTSYSHHEVSKOGO PEAK ULARG NORTH EDGE II Ridge I Ridge NORTH-WEST COUNTERFORCE

Ascent to the summit via the southern ridge with route description, technical details, and photographs.

Description of the combined route category 5A to the summit of Ucharg via the North-Western counterfort, with details of the ascent and technical difficulties.

I35. Ularg via the Northwest Counterfort (combined route, 5A category of difficulty) The path from the base camp on the Songuti River or from the Ceysky district KSP to the initial bivouac on the rocky ledges under the North wall of Ularg peak. From the ledges, along the snowy slope of the glacier (closed crevasses), approach the left side of the Northwest counterfort of Ularg peak. From the glacier, crossing the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the 80-meter ice-and-snow slope to the rocks on the left side of the Northwest counterfort, 40 m to the left and above its rocky base. Along smooth slabs with a limited number of holds, steep, partially icy rocks of medium difficulty with a 10-meter wall of above-average difficulty above, then along heavily broken simple and medium-difficulty shelves and rocks — "live" stones 60–80 m up and to the right along the left side of the Northwest counterfort. Then traverse 40 m to the right, bypassing the "reddish" gendarme, to the right side of the Northwest counterfort. Along steep rocks of above-average difficulty on the right side of the counterfort, ascend 40 m to a narrow couloir. Up the difficult rocks of the vertical narrow couloir 80 m to a scree shelf on its right side. — The key point of the route, possible rockfalls, falling ice fragments — Along a snowy, scree-sloping shelf 40 m up and to the right. From the end of the shelf, ascend along difficult rocks with a small number of holds, a 60–70-meter wall with a shelf in the middle part. Further: along rocks of medium difficulty, then along the boundary of ice and rocks, exit to an inclined shelf crossing the Northwest counterfort.

Description of the ascent made by the MOS DSO "Trud" mountaineering group to the summit of Ullarga (4320 m) via the northwest counterforce.

REPORT on the ascent to Mt. Ullarg via the Northwest Buttress by a group of climbers MOS DSO "Trud" § 1. Geographical description of the area and sporting characteristics of the region The summit of Ullarg (4320 m) is located in a lateral spur of the main Caucasian ridge, beyond the peaks of Uilpata and Songuti-khokh. The peaks of Arcihevskogo and Oni-Ani follow after Ullarg. The Ullarg region is still poorly explored from the north. It is far from active camps, and there are no convenient approaches. The only relatively easy access is from the northeast, from the villages of Dunta and Komunta, along the Songuti-don river. The path from the villages of Dunta and Komunta is long and difficult to traverse. [^0] [^0]: www.alpfederation.ru To date, only one route to the summit of Ullarg from the north was laid by Yashnov's group in 1968. This route is classified as category 5B and passes through the right part of the northern wall. The central part of the wall and the very beautiful and interesting path along the northwest buttress remain unclimbed.

Ascent to Ucharg peak (4358 m) via the Eastern ridge, a combined route of 3B category of difficulty, duration 3 days.

Fig. 32 Ularg (4358 m) via the East Ridge (combined route by Mitchell, category III, Fig. 32). The path from the Tsейsky District base camp (group of 4–8 people) to the Artsyshevsky Peak with the initial bivouac at the Volginsky bivouac is described in route 142. From the Artsyshevsky Peak, descend along the snowy slope of the East Ridge (cornices) to under the Kvadratny Dzhandarm. Bypass the dzhandarm on the left along the destroyed, crumbly rocks. Behind it, exit into the couloir onto the col under the II dzhandarm and bypass it on the right with a traverse (20°) and along the snowy slope (with belay). Further along the sharp snowy ridge (cornices), approach the dzhandarm "Vilka", pass it in the center through the fork, and descend to the col of the East Ridge. From the col, ascend 100–120 m upwards along the narrow, sometimes steep snowy East Ridge or along its left side (cornices — piton belay). Along the heavily destroyed, simple, sometimes snow-covered rocks of the East Ridge or its left side, ascend to the summit of Ularg. From the Volginsky bivouac, it takes 5–6 hours. Descend via the ascent route. The duration of the route is 3 days.

Climbing Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, a detailed description of the challenging route and key considerations for mountaineers.