Pik Semionova Tien-Shanskogo

The route starts from the upper cushion of the Uchitel glacier along the north face of Semenova Tian-Shanskogo peak to the right of the icefall. There are quite large ice crevasses on the approach to the bergschrund. From the bergschrund, the first 4.5 pitches are easy 55-degree ice until reaching a large ice ledge. From the ledge, another 5 pitches of the same ice lead to a small ledge before the rock section. The final part of the route begins along a 20 m rock couloir and then exits left onto a rock ridge. In the couloir and on the ridge, the terrain is heavily broken, the steepness is 40–50 degrees, Grade III rock (5b fr), protection using natural features. The section length is 80 m. Descent from the route, depending on conditions, is either via 3A Erapunova or via the ascent route.

Ascent to Elbrus peak via the classic route from Garabashi glacier for experienced mountaineers.

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Ascent certificate for the peak Semenov-Tian-Shansky via a new route, category 4A difficulty level.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent category — technical Ascent region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge Semenov-Tian-Shansky peak (4870 m) from the west via the northern ridge, combined 4A, first ascent Length 820 m Length of sections with 3rd technical grade 300 m, 4th technical grade 520 m Pitons driven Rock Ice

Description of a challenging climbing route with ice and rock sections, featuring hazardous cornices and unstable rocks.

Brief description of the route by sections Sections R0–R2. Snow and ice slope. Simultaneous movement. Insurance through ice screws. Crossing bergschrunds via snow bridges. Sections R2–R4. Rocky gully and a series of walls. Rocks are destroyed, iced over. The most difficult section on the route. Insurance: pitons nuts In the upper part of the gully, behind a jendarme, there's a control cairn. Alternating movement. Sections R4–R5. Rocky ridge, very sharp. Loose rocks, everything is snowy, overhanging cornices! Insurance via rock outcrops. Alternating-simultaneous movement.

A description of a challenging climbing route with a key section that involves using technical climbing equipment (ITC), and an overnight stay on a comfortable ledge, followed by a summit ascent and descent via the eastern couloir.

Description of the route by sections R0–R3. Start of the route. Approach to the bastion via firn and ice. Then a series of internal corners and walls, exit to a ledge. Control cairn. R3–R8. Very complex rock section. Limited crack selection and small holds. In winter, it is passed exclusively using artificial climbing techniques (ИТО). Key location of the route. R6–R16: Approach to an internal corner and chimney via a rock ledge. Difficult climbing. Movement using ИТО. Then via walls and "ram's foreheads". Exit to convenient and safe sites. Overnight stay. Section I6 — 2I. Approach to the upper key section via rock walls. Difficult climbing, rock cornice. Movement using ИТО. Exit to a bastion. Section 2I — 25. Snow-ice slope, then via rocks of 3–4 cat. sl. Exit to the summit.

Description of a section of the route indicating the length, steepness and category of difficulty.

Section "length, steepness, travel time, category, hours, difficulties" 5

Ascent to Everest peak via the southern route through the South Col with a description of the stages and key points of the path.

4250 m

A description of the mountain route divided into sections with detailed instructions on the techniques of passage and belaying at various stages.

Route Description by Sections Sec. 0–I. The beginning of the route — approaching the wall via an icy slope. Simultaneous movement, insurance through ice screws. Sec. I–6. Rocky bastion, a series of internal corners and walls with steepness up to 70–80°. Very complex rocks, limited number of holds and cracks. Use of thin pitons and small stoppers. Passage in artificial terrain (ИТО). Preliminary processing of this section is recommended. Alternating movement. A control cairn is left on the rocky ledge to the left of a pronounced grotto. Sec. 6–12. A series of walls and shelves leading to the key point of the route. Initially, a smooth rocky wall with a limited selection of cracks and small holds. Passage in ИТО. Further, via "sheep's foreheads" (бараньи лбы), approach under a vertical plate with a narrow crack. In the upper part: the crack turns into an overhanging chimney with a plug. Free climbing is practically impossible due to the lack of holds (only undercuts). For insurance — a single wedge-shaped crevice with an overhang, where only "Friends" (Френды) hold. Passage in ИТО. A cairn is left at the end of the section.

Descriptions of climbing routes to Semenov-Tian-Shansky Peak (4875 m) with complexity rating and indication of the first ascent paths.

Photo 1. The summit of p. Semenova-Tyan-Shansky 4875 m. 1 — 5A, via the right part of the 3rd wall; 2 — 5B, to the bastion of the 3rd wall; 3 — 5B, via the right part of the 3rd wall; 4 — the first ascent route

Description of the ascent to Peak Semionova-Tian-Shansky (4875 m) via a 5B category difficulty route in the Northern Tian-Shan in 1999.

Ascent Passport Climb Class Climb Region Peak, its height Ascent Route Difficulty Category (approximate) Height Difference Average Steepness Driven Kryachev's: rock ice bolt anchors Laid закладок Number of walking hours Number of overnight stays Participants: Nagovitsina Elena Yulyevna Zueva Tamara Aleksandrovna