Description of the route by sections

R0–R3. Start of the route. Approach to the bastion via firn and ice. Then a series of internal corners and walls, exit to a ledge. Control cairn. R3–R8. Very complex rock section. Limited crack selection and small holds. In winter, it is passed exclusively using artificial climbing techniques (ИТО). Key location of the route. R6–R16:

• Approach to an internal corner and chimney via a rock ledge.
• Difficult climbing. Movement using ИТО.
• Then via walls and "ram's foreheads".
• Exit to convenient and safe sites. Overnight stay. Section I6 — 2I. Approach to the upper key section via rock walls. Difficult climbing, rock cornice. Movement using ИТО. Exit to a bastion. Section 2I — 25. Snow-ice slope, then via rocks of 3–4 cat. sl. Exit to the summit.

1 0 3 35­–45 40 III­–IV­– 16 2 0 2 65­–70 15 IV+V­– 15 2 0 4 55­–65 40 IV­–IV+ 14 1 0 3 45­–50 30 III­–IV­– 13 1 0 2 60­–65 10 IV+V­– 12 1 0 4 45­–55 40 III­–IV­– 11 2 0 8 120024,07 KT. 75­–80 30 V­–V+ 10 2 0 8 45­–60 70 III­–IV­– 9 2 0 2 70­–80 10 V+ 3 1 0 6 55­–65 30 V­– 7 0 0 3 40­–450 25 IV­– 6 0 0 4 55­–400 40 III+IV 5 1 0 8 55­–70 60 IV+,V­– 4 2 0 1 55­–600 35 IV+ 3 0 0 1 15­–250 20 II­–III 2 0 2 0 45­–500 80 III 1 KPT-113 11207914 KAT 16 N 44 Fig. 3. Route scheme in UIAA symbols (beginning).

Route description by sections R0–R1 — steepness 80°, cracks, well-suited for 2.5–5 cm offset wired nuts, many loose rocks; R1–R3 — everything is available for organizing protection and free climbing; R3–R4 — monolithic wall 40 meters long with a steepness of 75°, smooth, passed through a crack 10–15 cm wide, very difficult climbing, as the crack edges are smooth, large nuts and cams are required for protection; R4–R6 — everything is available; R6–R7 — relief is shallow, mostly shallow cracks, climbed using positive holds, short pitons and small stoppers; R7–R8 — an open corner with a shallow crack 2.5–3.5 cm wide, crack is blind, relief is shallow — sloping shelves 1.5–3 cm wide, 20–40°; R8–R9 — the same as R7–R8, but with less steepness — 70°; R9–R10 — an open blind corner, walls are smooth, 2 expansion bolts were hammered and left for protection, at the exit from the corner there is an overhanging blind crack 3–4 cm wide, 50–80

Section "length, steepness, travel time, category, hours, difficulties"

5

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Passport

I. Category — technical. 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai glacier. 3. Peak Semenova-Tian-Shansky, 4875 m, via the right part of the Western wall. 4. Route 5B category of difficulty, combined. 5. Height difference — 970 m, main part of the route height difference — 565 m, average steepness — 68–70 degrees, Length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 120 m. 6. Pitons driven: rock blade pitons ice screw 57 0 64 4 IO 0 5 0

Ii a c ii o p t

I. Winter category. 2. Tian-Shan. Kyrgyz range. 3. peak Semenova-Tyan-Shanskogo, 4875 m, via the right part of the Western wall, 4. Cat. dif. 5B. 5. Height difference 1000 m, length 1500 m, wall section height difference 650 m, length 830 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif.: 570 m, average steepness of the wall section is 60°: 6. Pitons hammered: | rock | chockstones | ice screws |

Photo 1. The summit of p. Semenova-Tyan-Shansky 4875 m.

• 1 — 5A, via the right part of the 3rd wall;
• 2 — 5B, to the bastion of the 3rd wall;
• 3 — 5B, via the right part of the 3rd wall;
• 4 — the first ascent route

4250 m