North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Oktyabrenok

via North-North-West ridge For category of difficulty

Climbing Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye valley.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrenok 3650 m, via North-North-West ridge.
3. Proposed: 3A cat. dif.

North­ern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Oktyabrenok

via the right part of the West Ridge Category III difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye valley.
2. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrenok 3650 m, via the right part of the West Ridge
3. Proposed: Category 3A

Пик Октябрёнок (3650 m), center of the Western Edge bastion, Zhergetal valley (ЗБ), cat. difficulty The description of the approach is given in the section of the 3A route on the right part of the Western Edge bastion. One needs to approach the bastion in its central part - where the grassy slope rises highest into a rocky cirque. The inner corner continues straight, but the ascent starts to the left of it, along the wall, and even further left - into a small corner, leading to a wide grassy ledge. Further, move left and upwards through a system of inner corners (sections R7–R12) to the top of the protruding edge, where it's convenient to organize a second belay station. From here, cross a steep wall (sections R13–R15) to the talus shelves of the upper part of the bastion. Along the shelves, move right onto the ridge onto the 3A route on the right part of the Western Edge bastion. Move along it to the summit. Descent to the south via 1Б.

Northern Tien-Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau

Peak Oktyabrenok

via the right edge of the first Bastion 3B category of difficulty

Climbing Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien-Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe valley.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrenok 3650 m, via the right part of the Western ridge
3. Proposed: 3B category of difficulty

Northern Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau

Peak Oktyabrionok

via the central bastion of the NW edge 4A cat. diff.

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrionok 3650 m, via the right part of the Western edge
3. Proposed: 4A cat. diff.

The approach to the bastion is described in the previous section (1.5 hours), but there is no need to bypass it from the right; the route goes along the left, main, face. At the top of the bastion, it joins route 3A, which leads to the summit. View of Mynzhipin from the road.

North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Oktyabrionok via the bastion of the North Face

4A cat. diff.

Climbing Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye gorge.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrionok 3650 m, via the counterfort of the North Face.
3. Proposed: 4A cat. diff.
4. Nature of the route: rock

7.2.172 Oktyabrenok

Center of the NE wall (Samara variant), 4B

K. Belotserkovsky, 2013 Description of the ascent, and why the variant is called "Samara" "North-Eastern wall of Oktyabrenok, Samara variant". A more direct variant of the previous route.

• A long 4B with a good level of climbing.
• On the fifth rope, large camalots (#4–5) may come in handy, or you will just have to endure a bit (I endured).
• The sixth rope, as described, can become famous due to its start.
• Difficult climbing on a slightly overhanging wall.
• Further, exit to a shelf via corners, where the routes converge.