Pik Chimtarga

Ascent to the summit of Chimtarga via the West face, category 5B, made by the LSS MSS team "Vasternik" in 1985.

Passport Class — high-altitude technical. Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains, Pravy Zindon river valley. CHIMTARGA peak, 5487 m, via the West face. 5B category of difficulty, fourth ascent, submitted for reclassification to 6B category of difficulty. | Entire route 4350–5487 m | | Wall 4350–5360 m | Most technically challenging part of the wall | | :-----------------------: | :-----: | :---------------: | :-----------------------------------------: | | Height difference | 1137 m | 1010 m | 510 m (4350–4860 m) | | Length | 1450 m | 1240 m | 640 m |

Report on the ascent of the team from the Krasnoyarsk Regional Council of the Spartak Sports Society to the summit of Chimtarga via the west wall in 1974.

Ascent Logbook Completed in the 1974 USSR Alpine Climbing Championship. Ascent category — technically challenging Ascent region — Pamir-Alay, Fan Mountains Ascent route — via the western wall of Chimtarga peak (5494 m) Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1150 m, average steepness 86°–87°, length of complex sections — 1020 m Pitons used: rock pitons — 318 ice pitons (in rock) — 10 ice screws — 5

Description of the route of 5B category of complexity to the summit of Chimtarga (5456 m) through the right part of the west face, climbed in 1983 by a team led by Stadnik V.F.

I. CLASS OF ASCENT high-altitude technical AREA OF ASCENT Pamir-Alay. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Chimtarga, 5496 m, via the right part of the southern face. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B cat. diff. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ROUTE: Height difference of the wall section — 650 m, — — — ridge — 250 m,

Report on the ascent of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Krai to the summit of Chimtargha via the South wall in 1976.

Ii a c ii o pt ASCENT PERFORMED FOR THE PRIMACY OF THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE SPORTS SOCIETY "SPARTAK" IN ALPINISM IN 1976 I. Class of ascent — technically difficult. Region of ascent — Pamir-Alai, Fann Mountains. Ascent route — via the South wall of Chimtargra peak 5494 m Characteristics of ascent: height difference — 1050 m, average steepness — 75°, length of difficult sections 920 m. Number of pitons: rock pitons — 169 wooden wedges — 9 Number of climbing hours — 45

Report on the first ascent of the central part of the southern wall of Chimtarga peak (5494 m) in the Fann Mountains by the team of the Krasnoyarsk Regional Council of the Spartak Sports Society in 1976.

CENTRAL COUNCIL "SPARTAK" SPORTS SOCIETY ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP ASCENT REPORT ON CHIMTARGA PEAK — 5494 m VIA THE CENTER OF THE SOUTH FACE First Ascent The route was climbed by the team from the Krasnoyarsk Regional Council of the Spartak Sports Society, consisting of: YANOV V.F. — Master of Sports of the USSR — team captain SOBOLEV V.S. — Candidate for Master of Sports — team member BYCHKOV V.M. — Candidate for Master of Sports — team member GAVROSHKIN V.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports — team member KOTOV E.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports — team member

Report on the first ascent by a team of climbers to the summit of Chimtarga via the South-West wall, category 5B route in 1967.

Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Soviet power! Report On the first ascent of the combined team of climbers from the Novosibirsk Regional Council of the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations to the summit of Chimtarga (5487 m) via the Southwest wall, category 5B (approximately), in the Soviet Union's 1967 alpine climbing championship in the high-altitude technical climbing category. Team leader: L. Kaluzhsky. July 23–26, 1967. Fann Mountains. Pamir Description of the Route and its Passage On July 23, at 8:20 AM, the ascent began with an overnight stop under the wall. Section R1 (Fig. 1, 2). The ascent up a snow-ice slope with rock outcrops takes about 3 hours. The slope's steepness ranges from 25° to 40°. Movement is in teams, simultaneous. The snow lies thinly on the ice, is heavily frozen, and thus requires frequent step cutting with an ice axe, especially on pure ice sections. We gain the first 300 m in height and reach the base of the rocks (Fig. 1). To the left, a very steep ice couloir ascends. A 5-meter vertical wall is overcome by free climbing (Section R1A). On a rock shelf, we assemble the first control cairn. Section R2. Immediately presents maximum difficulty: a 40-meter vertical chimney filled with ice (Fig. 2, 3, 4). The chimney's walls are smooth, almost without cracks. Iosif Dobkin, wearing boots with a ridged sole, leads through this challenging section, using 7 pitons. The rest of the team must climb lightly and organize rope hauling for their backpacks.

### Ascent route to Chirga peak via the west wall, category of complexity 5B, length 2 km, wall sections - 1000 m.

Route Description The description is given by sections. July 25 - departure from the assault camp located at the western foot of Chimtarga peak, at an altitude of about 3800 m. At 6:30, we start ascending along the scree to the terraces under the southwestern wall of Chimtarga. From below, this place resembles a captain's bridge. From there, we traverse left along the snow and scree to the "ram's foreheads", to the beginning of the route. The entire path to the start of the route takes 2 hours. The beginning of the route is clearly distinguished against the sky by a small rib adjacent to the lower part of the western wall. In the lower part of the rib, we built the first control cairn. Height about 4100 m. Section R1 From the control cairn, we ascend to the right along the rocks for 40 m. The rocks are smooth, with a steepness of 35-40°, and intermittent insurance through rock outcrops. We reach under a six-meter, almost sheer (80°) rock wall. In the upper part of the wall, there is an internal corner. The rocks are monolithic, with small holds, and the climbing is difficult. Two hooks are hammered into the wall. Section R2 From the corner, we exit onto the main ledge and along the ledge to the right, we reach the base of the "gendarme". Then, along the slabs, we bypass the gendarme on the left. Further, again to the right along the scree ledges, we reach the gendarme and approach under the rock wall. The length of the section is 150 m, with intermittent insurance through outcrops.

### Description of the Ascent Route to Chintarg Peak, Difficulty Category 4B Detailed characteristics of the route, technical details, and feedback from participants of subsequent ascents.

Ascent Passport Ascent category: High-altitude technical Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Zarafshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height, ascent route: Chimtarga, 5498 m, via the Eastern Counterfort Expected difficulty category: 4B category, combined Route description: Ridge height difference (by altimeter) – 1300 m On the ridge, there are 5 walls with a total height difference (10 m, 40 m, 25 m, 30 m, 40 m) – 145 m and an average steepness of 70° Length of sections: 5 km — 10 m

Traversing the peaks of Maria, Mirali, Chimtarga, and Energia via the northwest wall with a detailed description of a challenging climbing route.

5.3.73 78 USSR Championship in Traverse Class Report on the traverse of Maria Peak (4970 m) — Mirali (5180 m) — Chimtarga (5487 m) — Energiya (5105 m) with ascent to Maria Peak via the northwest wall by the team from the Belarus Republican Committee for Physical Culture and Sports Route Description July 21–22 The entire group with observers gathered under the wall. The Lozovsky–Nogotov team started processing the route. They fixed two ropes. The group departed at 5:30 AM. Within half an hour, they crossed the glacier and approached the rope. The first two ropes traverse zigzagging to the right, then to the left along a crevice through steep, smooth rocks resembling "ram's foreheads" (0–1), and lead to a ledge under an overhanging wet section of the wall, approximately 5 m, with a crack. The first climber goes without a backpack; the rest follow on jumar ascenders for 40 m along the wall (1–3). Backpacks are pulled up. Those who wish can ascend with their backpacks on jumar ascenders. They completed this section by 10:00 AM. Ahead, a wide, inclined, wet chimney is visible. They bypass it on the left (3–4) and enter a second, smaller chimney with a plug (not visible from below), which leads out onto the wall. Again, very difficult climbing: Lozovsky goes without a backpack; the others follow on jumar ascenders with their backpacks; a couple of backpacks are pulled up (4–5). The general direction of movement is up and to the left towards the main couloir, almost a chimney, which bisects the lower half of the wall from the glacier to the "nose" — a large block in that part of the wall where a gentler section is discernible. The rocks are blocky; climbing is of medium difficulty, but there are very difficult vertical sections 5–7 m long (5–6).