Узбекистан

Peak0
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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### Description of the Ascent Route to Peak Uzbekistan via the Northeast Face Detailed analysis of the technical difficulties and assessment of the route's complexity category.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class - technically challenging.
  2. Ascent area -
  3. Peak Uzbekistan 5150 m above sea level via the left bastion of the northeast wall.
  4. Difficulty category - approximately 5B.
  5. Route characteristics height difference 935 m average steepness 75° length of sections | I | II | III | IV | V | VI |
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Report on the ascent to the peak of Uzbekistan via the NE wall in 1976, category of difficulty 5.1 A, climbed by a group of climbers led by V.S. Nespovity.

Dugoba alpine camp 5.1A 105. IIIa Report on the ascent of Pik Uzbekistan via the North-Eastern wall 1976 Protocol No. 81 from August 30, 1976, reviewing the ascent of Pik Uzbekistan, category 5B, via the NE wall, "credited". Present: the group in full:

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Ascent description of Peak Uzbekistan (5140 m) via the ice slab of the northern wall, category 5B, climbed by a team of climbers in 1978.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category: technical
  2. Ascent region: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
  3. Ascent route: Peak Uzbekistan 5140 m (via the ice board of the northern wall)
  4. Route characteristics height difference: 1050 m, average steepness: 65°, most challenging sections: 90°
  5. Length of sections: III cat. diff. — 420 m, IV cat. diff. — 160 m V cat. diff. — 535 m, VI cat. diff. — 120 m
  6. Pitons used:
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Uzbekistan (5100 m) via the north wall, difficulty category 5B, climbed in 1980 by a team led by Pershin Valery Nikolaevich.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge 3. Peak, its height, v. Uzbekistan, 5100 m, ascent route: northern wall (second passage) 4. Difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1050 m, average steepness — 65°, section lengths: 2 diff. cat. — 35 m, 3 diff. cat. — 180 m, 4 diff. cat. — 380 m, 5 diff. cat. — 540 m, 6 diff. cat. — 95 m 6. Pitons driven:

Piton typeFor belayFor creating ITO
Rock91
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Ascent record of the "Uzbekistan" peak (5100 m) via the North Face, cat. 5B, climbed by a group in August 2004.

Ascent Certificate

  1. Technical category.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge, Dugoba river basin.
  3. Peak "Uzbekistan", 5100 m, category 5B via North wall, V. Rassokha, 76.
  4. Route type: combined.
  5. Route elevation gain: 900 m (by altimeter); route length — 1270 m; length of category V sections — 60 m; category VI sections — 20 m; average steepness:
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### Description of the ascent route to the summit of Uzbekistan (5140 m) via the center of the north face, category of difficulty 5B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Uzbekistan, 5140 m, via the center of the North face
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B category
  5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 1000 m Average steepness 65° Section lengths:
    • III category — 240 m
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