Узбекистан
Route Description: левому бастиону СВ стены
### Description of the Ascent Route to Peak Uzbekistan via the Northeast Face Detailed analysis of the technical difficulties and assessment of the route's complexity category.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class - technically challenging.
- Ascent area -
- Peak Uzbekistan 5150 m above sea level via the left bastion of the northeast wall.
- Difficulty category - approximately 5B.
- Route characteristics height difference 935 m average steepness 75° length of sections | I | II | III | IV | V | VI |
Route Description: СВ стене
Report on the ascent to the peak of Uzbekistan via the NE wall in 1976, category of difficulty 5.1 A, climbed by a group of climbers led by V.S. Nespovity.
Dugoba alpine camp
5.1A 105. IIIa
Report on the ascent of Pik Uzbekistan via the North-Eastern wall
1976
Protocol No. 81 from August 30, 1976, reviewing the ascent of Pik Uzbekistan, category 5B, via the NE wall, "credited".
Present: the group in full:
Route Description: ледовой доске С стены
Ascent description of Peak Uzbekistan (5140 m) via the ice slab of the northern wall, category 5B, climbed by a team of climbers in 1978.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category: technical
- Ascent region: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
- Ascent route: Peak Uzbekistan 5140 m (via the ice board of the northern wall)
- Route characteristics height difference: 1050 m, average steepness: 65°, most challenging sections: 90°
- Length of sections: III cat. diff. — 420 m, IV cat. diff. — 160 m V cat. diff. — 535 m, VI cat. diff. — 120 m
- Pitons used:
Route Description: ледовой доске С стены
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Uzbekistan (5100 m) via the north wall, difficulty category 5B, climbed in 1980 by a team led by Pershin Valery Nikolaevich.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge 3. Peak, its height, v. Uzbekistan, 5100 m, ascent route: northern wall (second passage) 4. Difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1050 m, average steepness — 65°, section lengths: 2 diff. cat. — 35 m, 3 diff. cat. — 180 m, 4 diff. cat. — 380 m, 5 diff. cat. — 540 m, 6 diff. cat. — 95 m 6. Pitons driven:
| Piton type | For belay | For creating ITO |
|---|---|---|
| Rock | 9 | 1 |
Route Description: С стене
Ascent record of the "Uzbekistan" peak (5100 m) via the North Face, cat. 5B, climbed by a group in August 2004.
Ascent Certificate
- Technical category.
- Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge, Dugoba river basin.
- Peak "Uzbekistan", 5100 m, category 5B via North wall, V. Rassokha, 76.
- Route type: combined.
- Route elevation gain: 900 m (by altimeter); route length — 1270 m; length of category V sections — 60 m; category VI sections — 20 m; average steepness:
Route Description: центру С стены
### Description of the ascent route to the summit of Uzbekistan (5140 m) via the center of the north face, category of difficulty 5B.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: technical
- Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Uzbekistan, 5140 m, via the center of the North face
- Proposed difficulty category: 5B category
- Route characteristics:
Elevation gain 1000 m
Average steepness 65°
Section lengths:
- III category — 240 m