Ascent Log

1. Rock class.
2. Altai, Mensu gorge.
3. Belukha East, via the south-eastern slope.
4. Proposed — for category complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 700 m, length: 1200 m, average steepness: 40 °.
6. Climbing hours — 6 hours.
7. Overnight stays: 2 on approach, on the route — none.
8. Leader — Afanasyev A.E. Team members:

ALPINIAD

of the Tomsk Regional Council of the All-Union Student Sports Society "Burevestnik"

Gorny Altai

Ak-kem valley July 10 - August 20 1963 Ascent to Vostochnaya Belukha from the cirque of Men-su glacier

Report

on the ascent to Vostochnaya Belukha via the south-eastern ridge (route category 3B) On July 26, 1963, a group of climbers, participants of the Alpinad of the Tomsk Regional Council of the All-Union Student Sports Society "Burevestnik", consisting of:

Be­zu­la V. 4378

1.1. Russian Mountaineering Championship. Ice and Snow Ascent Class

Report

On the first ascent to Belukha (V) peak via the right part of the NW wall by the team from the Mountain-Altai Emergency Rescue Service (PSS) of the EMERCOM of Russia, Gorno-Altaysk. Team Leader: Slobodchikov I.V. — 1st sports category Coach: Yakubovsky V.I. — 1st sports category Slobodchikov Igor Vladimirovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Kommunisticheskij Ave., 160, apt. 33. Yakubovsky Valery Ivanovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Altayskaya St., 26, apt. 2.

Passport

1. Class: ice and snow
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge, Ak-kem gorge

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Belukha (V), 4506 m via the right part of the northwest wall (3rd passage, approximately 5B cat. sl.) by the team of the Altai Regional Sports Committee. Coaches: Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class, Kuznetsov N.A. — Candidate Master of Sports 1996 year

Passport

1. Ice and snow class
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge, Akkem valley
3. Belukha (V) summit — 4506 m via the right part of the NW wall, combined route
4. Proposed — 5B cat. sl., 3rd passage
5. Height difference: 1306 m, total length — 1800 m

The route passes through the part of the Ak-Kem wall visible from Lake Ak-Kem, with an exit to the Western plateau. The route begins from the left upper cirque of the Ak-Kem glacier at an altitude of 3100 m. Section R0–R1. Snow slope. Section R1–R2. Bergschrund 4 m. Insurance through an ice axe. Section R2–R3. Firn slope under a hanging glacier. Section R3–R4. Tongue of a hanging glacier. Ice is hard. Section R4–R5. Snow cushion of a hanging glacier with ice islands. Section R5–R6. Firn bergschrund. Section R6–R2. Belt of ice-filled rocks. Steepness 45–50°. Section R7–R8. Icy rock belt 65°. Section R8–R9. Ice slope with rock islands.

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120 m 70–80° I

XVIII. Brief Explanation of the UIAA Scheme

The ascent along the snowy cone of the talus does not constitute part of the route but is considered a difficult section because the loose deep snow interspersed with ice blocks complicates movement. Sec. R0–R1 · Bergschrund — a crevasse perpendicular to the slope, the upper edge of which overhangs and acts as a springboard. Sec. R1–R2 · Firn couloir with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R2–R3 · Ice groove through a rock belt 50 m, up to 65°. Sec. R3–R4 · Firn slope with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R4–R5 · Entry onto the "ram's foreheads" along the line between the upper rock steps. Sec. R5–R6 · Snow-covered "ram's foreheads". Sec. R6–R7 · Rocky ascent 150 m, 60°. Sec. R7–R8 · Ice wall 40 m, exit onto a ledge between seracs. Sec. R8–R9 · Traverse left to bypass the icefall. Sec. R9–R10 · Snow ascent 30°. Entry onto the saddle. Sec. R10–R11 · Flat snow field towards the Eastern ridge of the North summit of Western Belukha. Sec. R11–R12 · Wind-swept ice ridge with rocky outcrops 45°, 500 m. Sec. R12–R13 · Summit ridge with snow cornice to the left, up to the North summit of Western Belukha 300 m. Sec. R13–R14 · 1000 m along a sharp snowy ridge traverse to the main summit of the Specified Belukha 4456 m. Caution, snow cornices! Sec. R14–R15 · Descent along the Western ridge of the main summit onto the Western plateau, 400 m vertically.

ASCENT PASSPORT. I. Rock class. 2. Altai, Mensu gorge. 3. Belukha Eastern, via the pillows of the south-eastern slope. 4. Proposed — Category III, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length: 1200 m, average steepness: 40 °. 6. Movement hours — 8 hours. 7. Overnight stays: 2 on approach, on the route — none. 8. Leader — Kuznetsova Tatiana Yurievna — II sports category. Participants: