Object 18524307

Description of a new 5B category route to the peak of German Komsomol (3600 m) via the center of the East face in the Caucasus.

Ascent Passport Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass. German Komsomol Peak (3600 m) via the center of the Eastern wall. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. Route type: rock climbing. Height difference: 560 m. Route length: 700 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 240 m. Average steepness: main part of the route from section R0 to section R25 (up to the top of the tower) 72° entire route from start to summit 60° Pitons left on the route — 8, including bolted pitons — 0. Pitons used:

Description of the 2A category complexity route to the summit of **Komosomola** (~3600 m) from the **Belaalakayskiy Glacier** in the **North-Western Caucasus**.

Ascent Record I. Technical Climbing Category. Dombay Region, North-West Caucasus. German Comsomol Peak, ~3600 m, from Belalakaysky Glacier. Category of difficulty — 2A. The route is combined, with a height difference from the glacier of ~1000 m. Belay — without pitons. Number of climbing hours from the moraine bivouac: ascent 5–6 hours, descent — 3 hours. Training group: Starikov G.A. — 1st sports category, instructor Kruchikov Yu. — III, Koblyakov V. — III, Rakhmatov R. — III, Galimyanov N. — III

Ascent to Alibeksky peak via the Western counterforce, category of complexity 4A, length 750-800 m, 22 rock pitons, 12-13 walking hours.

Alibekskiy Peak Ascent Passport Ascent route with indication of peaks: ascent via Western counterfort (approximately 4A category of difficulty) Ascent characteristics: height difference 750–800 m, average steepness 55–60° Pitons hammered in: rock — 22 pcs. ice — none bolt — none

Description of a Category I complexity route to Alibeksky peak in the Western Caucasus, a combined route featuring icefalls and rock sections.

ASCENT PASS Category of technical ascents. Dombay area, North-West Caucasus. Alibekskiy peak, ~3450 m, from the Belalakayskiy glacier along the edge or along the ridge from Kap peak. Cat. diff. – 1A. The nature of the route is combined, the height difference from the glacier is 500 m, in the second half of summer there are ice sections in the upper part of the route. Insurance – without the use of hooks. Number of travel hours from the bivouac on the moraine: ascent 4–5 hours, descent – 2 hours. Group is training: | Participant | Rank |

Description of the route of the first ascent to the top of Avstriyskiy Komsomol (3654 m) along the left NE edge, complexity category 4B, in the North Caucasus in the Dombay area.

Ascent Passport. I. Rock climbing category. Dombay region, North-West Caucasus. Ascent to Avstriyskiy Komsomola peak (3654 m) via left NE edge — first ascent. Difficulty category — 4B. Route characteristics — rock climbing. Height difference 1050 m, length 1350 m, length of sections with IV difficulty category — 950 m, average steepness 60°. Diverse insurance: 30 rock pitons were hammered for insurance, rope loops were used 25 times. Departure and return dates to the camp: 5–7 August 1976. Number of travel hours from the start of the route to the summit — 12 hours and descent to Belalakaya glacier another 5.5 hours. The ascent was made on August 6, 1976 (The group had a reserve of warm clothing, a primus stove, etc.). Sports group: Starikov G.A. — 1st sports category, instructor Stepanov E.L. — with observers on the glacier — 3rd category climbers.

### Description of the First Ascent to the "Austrian Komsomol" Peak (3600 m) via Chhalta-dzykh Pass, Category 4A, Dombay, 1969 The first ascent to the summit of "Austrian Komsomol" via the Chhalta-dzykh Pass, rated as a category 4A climb, as documented in 1969 in Dombay.

The first ascent to the summit of "Austrian Komsomol" (3600 m) via the Chkhalta-Dzykh pass from the south along the eastern ridge, approximately 4A category of difficulty. Dombay, July 1969, "Krasnaya Zvezda" alpine camp Photo # 1 Panorama of peaks from the Belalai glacier. From right to left: Kap peak; "German Komsomol" peak; "Austrian Komsomol" peak. (September) Photo # 2 View from the Belalai glacier to the Chkhalta-Dzykh pass (September). Diagram # 1 of the area of "Austrian Komsomol" peak "M" is the saddle between the "Austrian Komsomol" peak and its southeastern summit - Festivalny peak.

Description of the first ascent of Pik Avstriyskiy Komsomol from the east, from the Chhalta-Dzikh pass, with a difficulty level of 4A, made in 1972 by a group of climbers from the Dombay region.

REPORT on the ascent of Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola from the east, from Chhalta – Dzykh Pass, July 9–10, 1972, first ascent. I. Group Composition Gubanov Yu.D. — CMS, senior instructor KSP Dombay region, unattached, sports society "Burevestnik", Dombay settlement. Khamtsov A.P. — 1st sports category, junior instructor alpine camp "Alibek", unattached, sports society "Burevestnik", Dombay settlement. II. Alpinist and Geographical Characteristics of Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola Region (3650 m) Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola is located in the Main Ridge and has a long ridge stretching from west to east and dropping steeply to Chhalta – Dzykh Pass (3180 m). At the end of the eastern ridge of the peak, dropping to the pass, there is a shoulder in the form of a huge tooth with a sheer eastern wall. Through this shoulder from the south, along the counterfort, in 1969 a route 4A category of difficulty was passed to Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola. There is also an old route — traverse of Pik Germanskogo komsomola — Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola 3A category of difficulty, which has not been used for a long time. It was passed by a group led by Yu. Gubanov — Yu. Prima in June 1972 to scout other routes in this area, as a result of which the described route was chosen by us. We assumed that it had not been climbed before, as all descents from the traverse of Pik Germanskogo komsomola — Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola 3A category of difficulty and descents from the route on Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola from the south along the counterfort 4A category of difficulty were made to the south, along another, easier counterfort. Apparently, the path from the pass was considered difficult or was completely unknown. Subsequently, when passing the route, before the already passed ridge section, we did not find any traces.