Engil'chek Glacier

Video guide to climbing Khan-Tengri via the classic 5A route by experienced alpinist Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to the classic route to Khan-Tengri (5A) by Dima Pavlenko.

**2021 Russian Alpinism Championship: First Ascent to Peak Voennykh Topografov via South Face "Impromptu" Route, Category 5B**

Russian Mountaineering Championship 2021 Altitude Class Report on the first ascent to Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m) via the South Face route "Impromptu," approximately 5B category of difficulty, by the team from the Federation of Alpinism and Sports Climbing of Moscow, August 20-27, 2021. Head Coach: Kuznetsova E. V. Team Leader: Nilov S. A. Moscow 2021 Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m) South Face "Impromptu" Ascent Passport | 1. General Information | | | | :----------------------------------: | :----------------------------: | :-----------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Team Leader | Nilov S. A. (MS) |

Report on the ascent to the summit of Voennyh Topografov via the center of the Southwest wall, first ascent by the team from Krasnoyarsk Krai and Novosibirsk Oblast.

Russian Mountaineering Championship High-altitude Class 2023 ASCENT REPORT on the ascent to the peak of Voennykh Topografov, 6873 m, via the center of the Southwest wall 6B category of difficulty (approximately), first ascent by a combined team from Krasnoyarsk Krai and Novosibirsk Oblast. Period: 01.08.2023 – 07.08.2023 | | 1. General Information | | | :-- | :--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | :------------------------------------------------------------------------ | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Parfyonov A.A. (Master of Sports) | | 1.2 | Full names, sports ranks of the team participants | Mukhametzyanov R.N. (Master of Sports), Sukharev A.Yu. (Candidate Master of Sports) |

First ascent of the Southern Ridge of Pik Voennyh Topografov (6873 m) in Chinese Tien Shan, rated 5B-6A.

High-altitude and technical class Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau ridge, from the south (China). Peak Voennykh Topografov, 6873 m, via the south ridge (first ascent). Cat. diff.: 5B–6A (approximately) Height difference: ascent 4400–6873 m — 2473 m, descent 6873–4600 m — 2273 m. Total length — ascent — 4930 m (fixed ropes — 4130 m on ascent). Length of sections with 5–5+(6) cat. diff. — approximately 1340 m, 4 cat. diff. — approximately 1720 m, horizontal sections of the ridge — 1620 m. Average slope of the route — 40°, above the horizontal part of the ridge — 50–55°,

First ascent of Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m) in the Central Tien Shan via the northeast slope, category 5A difficulty.

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Description of the ascent route to Khan Tengri peak via the western ridge from the Semenovsky glacier, category 5A complexity.

Ascent Passport Class of high-altitude technical ascents. Region 7.9, Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. Khan-Tengri peak via the W ridge from Semenovsky glacier (variant of M. Pogrebetsky's route-31 via the SW slope). 5A category of route complexity, combined. Height difference 1400 m, average steepness of the ridge 40°, route length 3000 m. Sections of 1st category of difficulty – 1100 m, 2nd category – 350 m, 3rd category – 1300 m, 4th category – 200 m, 5th category – 50 m. Used previously fixed ropes – 700 m, total 1200 m of ropes on the route from 6100 m to 6850 m. Climbing hours — 9, days — 2. Overnight stay in a snow cave under the col between Chapayev peak and Khan-Tengri peak, 5850 m. Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich — CMS, Shanavazov Shanavaz Eldarovich — CMS

Report on the first ascent of the west wall of Khan-Tengri peak (6,995 m) by the team from Odessa regional council of the "Avangard" sports society in 1982.

Consider the route via 40–3 saddle as an option of cat. 5B (record No. 10 p. 7 of the classification) USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS 1982 Category 5 TECHNICAL-ALTITUDE ASCENTS group N/N not to be included in the table Order No. 525 dated 22.02.83 p. 26. 25.01.83 Report on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the west face

Ascent of Khan-Tengri via the West Couloir, 5B category of difficulty, first ascent by Bars alpine club team in 1997.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — altitude-technical Ascent area — Central Tien Shan Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) — via the western couloir, first ascent Estimated complexity category — 5B Height difference — 2800 m of which: wall — 1200 m Length — about 6000 m, including rock part — about 1800 m Length of sections with 5–6 complexity category — 125 m

Report on the ascent of Khan-Tengri via the Northwest Ridge in 2000, category of difficulty 5A, combined route, height difference 2800 m.

Ascent Passport Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Tengri Tag ridge, South Inylchek glacier, number according to the 1999 classification table —. Peak name: Khan Tengri (6995 m), route name: via NW edge from Chapayev peak shoulder (I. Grebenshchikov). Complexity category: 5A category. Route type — combined Route elevation gain: 2800 m (by altimeter); route length — 8260 m; sections of 5th category — 1500 m; 6th category —.

Description of the team’s ascent to Khan-Tengri Peak via the Pogrebetsky route (southwestern slope) with a complexity category of 5B.

Passport High-altitude class Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek Glacier Peak Khan-Tengri via the southwest slope (Pogrebetsky route) Category 5B difficulty Elevation gain — 1095 m, length — 1700 m (main part of the route). Total elevation gain — 2595 m. Length of category 5 sections — 590 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 45°, category 5 sections — 55°–60° (6700–6850 m). Pitons used: Rock — 52, bolt — 0, chocks — 16, ice — 5. Team's travel hours: 18, days — 3.