Fig. 6 21. Nakhashbīta Glavnaya via North-Eastern Ridge (the route is combined, by L. Khodyush, category III, Fig. 6). The path from the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbīta Glacier (group of 4–8 people), to the Khazni Pass is described in route 20. At the pass, turn right and approach the rocky belt under the Nakhashbīta Pass in the Sugansky Ridge via a steep snowy slope. Climb up the rocks of medium difficulty on the left side of the belt ("live" stones, piton belay). Traverse the snowy slope above the rocky belt to reach the ice-snow ridge. Follow a steep (key belay), and after a small snow depression, a wide gentle 250–300-meter ridge-slope to reach the Nakhashbīta Pass. Set up a bivouac at the pass. The path from the "Nakhashbīta" meadow to the Nakhashbīta Pass is described in route 10. A safer path to climb the North-Eastern ridge of Nakhashbīta is from the Tsukhgar­ty Glacier via a steep ice-snow slope, left of the first rocky outcrop - a rib, with an exit to the North-Eastern ridge of Glavnaya Nakhashbīta above the Nakhashbīta Pass. When climbing from the Nakhashbīta Glacier:

• Turn right at the pass
• Climb up a simple, gentle, long, snow-covered, heavily destroyed rocky ridge
• Continue along the simple snowy North-Eastern ridge of Glavnaya Nakhashbīta

Fig. 6 19. Nakhshbita Glavnaya via the Southwest Ridge from the south (A. Chernyaev's combined route, category III, fig. 6). The path from the "Nakhshbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the bivouac on the saddle of the Nakhshbita massif is described in route 18. From the site, traverse 120 meters along the snowy ridge (cornice) to the saddle and reach the Southwest Ridge of Glavnaya Nakhshbita. Ascend 70–80 meters along the snow-covered, possibly icy, moderately difficult rocks of the Southwest Ridge to a rocky outcrop. Bypass the outcrop:

• Traverse 120–140 meters to the right along a steep ice-snow slope along the rocks (piton belay) on the right side of the ridge. Then:
• Turn left.
• Ascend along the snow-covered rocks, then along a steep ice-snow slope (belaying) to the Southwest Ridge.

First Ascent

to the summit of Nakhashbita Glavnaya via the northwest ridge from the Nakhashbita Glacier, category 4A (estimated), Dnepropetrovsk

1. Characteristics of the Climbing Area

The summit of Nakhashbita Glavnaya is located in the Sugan Ridge, stretching from west to east, north of the Main Caucasian Ridge between the valleys of the rivers:

• Cherek Balkarsky
• Khizny-Don Studying the materials of groups that had previously visited this area (Honored Master of Sports of the USSR A.S. Zyuzina, I.M. Leonova, Master of Sports of the USSR R.U. Abduramanova), we concluded that nobody had climbed to the summit of Nakhashbita Glavnaya via the northwest ridge from the Nakhashbita Glacier. In the winter of 1964, during the preparation of the alpinist plans, it was decided to make this ascent.

2. Preparation for the Ascent

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Caucasus, Sugan Range
3. Nakhashbita Main (4390 m) via South Face
4. Approximately 5A category of difficulty
5. The route is combined, the total length of the wall is ~500 m, the average steepness of the wall is 60–65°
6. Number of pitons: ~70 pcs.
7. Time taken: from the base of the South Face to the South Summit 12–14 hours, from the previous bivouac on the south ridge to the summit 4–6 hours.
8. Overnight stays: a) possible overnight stay at the exit to the edge bordering the south face; b) on the ridge after exiting the snowy couloir;

Route 1. Nakhalibita — Mayak via Idiа along the Nakhоdibita glacier

D2H5Й, combined, 2B category of difficulty From the "Nakhalibita" ascent - north along the grassy slopes, along a small river flowing from the "Nakhalibita D2H5H" glacier, exit to the terminal moraine of the glacier (photo 32). From here, to the right with a gain in height - ascent to the upper snowfield (avalanche debris to the left, orographically from the lowering of the glacier tongue). From the "Nakhalibita" clearing, about two hours. Wearing crampons, in rope teams, exit to the glacier along a fairly steep ice slope. Crevasses are passed over snow bridges, approximately in the middle part of the glacier. Belay through ice axe and ice screws (1-2 pieces). After 30-40 minutes, having exited to the open, gentle part of the glacier, cross it to the left along the way, under the rocks, along a steep snowy ascent 200-250 m long. The bergschrund is overcome along a snow bridge. Belay through ice axe. Further ascent along the rocks, having a steep icy slope to the right along the way, broken by crevasses. Having crossed a wide transverse crevasse, visible from the "Nakhashbita" clearing, ascent along the rocks of Malaya Nakhashbita along a steep snowy-icy slope, above the diagonal bergschrund, between two separate rocky outcrops to a large triangular rock, clearly visible from the "Nakhashbita" clearing. Here you can make a halt. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing - 5-6 hours of walking. From the rocks, having crossed a small crevasse, traverse the snowy-icy slope to the right along two bergschrunds. Belay through ice screws (1-2 pieces). Bergschrunds are crossed in the middle part along bridges with careful belay. Further along a steep (35-40°) snowy-icy slope - exit to the saddle between Malaya Nakhashbita and Glaznaya. Belay through ice screws (2-3 pieces), movement straight on with front points. From the rest place under the triangular rock - one to two hours of walking.

As­cent time 5–6 hours.

Route rec­om­men­da­tion.

When pass­ing through the glacier to the saddle, it is nec­es­sary to keep a close watch on the stones fall­ing from the slopes of Na­khab­i­ta. Melon at any time of day.

2. When mak­ing the as­cent in one day, the group should have good phys­i­cal and tech­ni­cal train­ing. Leave the foot of "Na­khab­i­ta" not later than 4:00 am. If the group's train­ing is weak, they should over­night on the saddle.
3. The group should have: cram­pons, ice axes, main ropes, 4–5 ice screws and 2–3 rock pitons, pieces of rope for 2–3 slings.

ASCENT DOCUMENT.

1. Technical category, combined route.
2. Central Caucasus, Digoria, Sugansky Ridge.
3. Malaia Nakhashbita, 4300 m, South Ridge.
4. Category 4B difficulty.
5. Height difference 600 m; average steepness of rock sections determining the route complexity is 65°; total length of these sections is 200 m; total route length is 1450 m.
6. Pitons hammered for protection: rock — 22, ice — 13, used chocks — 21.
7. Travel time is 15 hours.
8. One overnight stay on a snow-ice knife-bridge before the "Big Gendarme" on the route.
9. Group leader: BRINK Ivan Yuryevich — 1st sports category. Group members: OVCHINNIKOVA Galina Nikolaevna — 1st sports category, KREMEN Anatoly Alekseevich — 2nd sports category, CHERNOV Alexander Alexandrovich — 2nd sports category.

ASCENT OF MALAYA NAKHAZHBITA

Geographical Characteristics of the Region

The Malaya Nakhazhbita peak is located in one of the most beautiful corners of the Caucasus, in the Irafsky District of the North Ossetian ASSR. If you travel along the Urukh River valley, after gardens and stanitsas with dusty roads, after treeless, smoothed by time and greenery foothills, after dark Ossetian ancestral towers of the Akhsau, Moska, and Stur-Digora settlements, the peaks of the Suvansky Ridge suddenly emerge. The Suvansky Ridge is located parallel to the Main Caucasian Ridge, but the former is higher and more powerful than the latter. For example, the most beautiful and highest peak of the Main Caucasian Ridge, Laboda, has a height of 4314 m, while Suvan is 4490 m, Glavnaya Nakhazhbita is 4405 m, and so on. Malaya Nakhazhbita (4225 m) is located in the middle of the Suvansky crest, to the west of Glavnaya Nakhazhbita; according to the first ascenders, it is one of the most beautiful peaks of the crest, with a logical and technically interesting route. The group was advised and cleared for the ascent by the authorized master of sports Boris Ryazhsky, a first ascender of this peak, who provided valuable advice on:

• the route;
• equipment. A brief description of the route according to the consultation: the route is combined, with a semi-closed broken glacier at the bottom, a snow-ice couloir leading to the crest. The lower part of the crest is heavily destroyed and rockfall-prone, followed by a wall with a single vertical crack and then a crest of monolithic blocks with small walls (5-3 m) going all the way to the summit. The descent is via route 2A cat. sl., the main difficulty of which lies in the icy ridge (8-10 ropes) from the saddle to the glacier.