- Climbing category — technical
- Climbing area — Caucasus, Sugan Range
- Nakhashbita Main (4390 m) via South Face
- Approximately 5A category of difficulty
- The route is combined, the total length of the wall is ~500 m, the average steepness of the wall is 60–65°
- Number of pitons: ~70 pcs.
- Time taken: from the base of the South Face to the South Summit 12–14 hours, from the previous bivouac on the south ridge to the summit 4–6 hours.
- Overnight stays: a) possible overnight stay at the exit to the edge bordering the south face; b) on the ridge after exiting the snowy couloir; c) on the South Summit.
- Participants: a) Shevandrin Nikolai Ivanovich, Master of Sports; b) Stepina Natalia Nikolaevna, 1st category.
- Coach — Artsishevsky Mriy Orevich
- Start of the route — July 8, 1981
Return — July 9, 1981
45 n.p. pr. 539 p. 20 April 24, 1984
1st ascent:
- Shevandrin M.I., Master of Sports, July 9–11, 1981 (or July 8–9 according to the passport)
- Stepina N.N., 1st category.
2nd ascent:
- Petrakov V.F., 1st category, July 9–13
- Dobrokvashin S.S., 1st category
- Vernyshev O.N., 1st category
- Pogorelov V.T., Candidate for Master of Sports
3rd ascent:
- Sukharev V.P., Candidate for Master of Sports, July 30–31, 1981
- Kremen A.A., 1st category.
4th ascent:
- Beletsky V.D., 1st category
- Sudarkin Yu.A., 1st category, August 4, 1981
Table of main characteristics of the climbing route
| Date | Designation | Average steepness | Length, m | Terrain characteristics | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Pitons |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| July 8, 1981 | R0–R1 | 35–40° | 30 | Inner corner | 2–3 | Monolith | Good | 3 |
| R1–R2 | 60° | 80 | Inner corner – edge | 3–4 | Monolith | — | 6–8 | |
| R2–R3 | 75° | 25 | Wall | 3–4 | Monolith | — | 3 | |
| R3–R4 | 65–70° | 80 | Inner corner – wall | 3–5 | Monolith | — | 10 | |
| R4–R5 | 50° | 20 | Shelf | 2–3 | Semi-destr. | — | Outcrops | |
| R5–R6 | 35° | 30 | Shelf | 2 | Semi-destr. | — | Outcrops | |
| R6–R7 | 10–80° | 30 | Inclined shelf – inner corner | 2–4–5 | Monolith | — | 5 | |
| R7–R8 | 40° | 40 | Edge | 2–3 | Semi-destr. | — | 1–2, outcrops | |
| R8–R9 | 80° | 35 | Wall | 5 | Monolith | — | 6 | |
| R9–R10 | 70° | 40 | Edge | 4–5 | Monolith | — | 5 | |
| R10–R11 | 80° | 35 | Inner corner | 5 | Monolith | — | 5 | |
| R11–R12 | 60° | 40 | Slab | 4–5 | Monolith | — | 4–5 | |
| R12–R13 | 60° | 40 | Inclined shelf – slab | 3–4 | Monolith | — | 3–4 | |
| July 9, 1981 | R13–R14 | 10–75° | 600–700 | Semi-destroyed ridge | 2–4 | Semi-destr. | Graupel, wind | 15–20 |
Description of the route to Nakhashbita Main via South Face, 5A category of difficulty.
(First ascent)
From the end of the left-bank moraine, traverse left and up along the "ram's foreheads" to the inner corner at the base of a 150-meter snow-ice slope with a steepness of 35–40°, leading under the wall. From the snow, opposite the central part of the wall, move left and up along the inner corner and shelf (30 m) to the base of a vaguely defined edge formed at the junction of two widely opened inner corners-couloirs, down which water flows. From the left side of the "edge," climb up from the shelf along a wet 4-meter corner to a small ledge, from where 4 m up and then along a vague edge to the right and up (70 m) through rocks of medium and above-average difficulty to the junction of two rock corners-couloirs, externally resembling open books. Crossing the rock corner-couloir to the right and up, towards the overhanging rock, move around it on the right along a 4-meter wall and then along a rock edge (15 m) of medium difficulty to a 10-meter shelf, where a control cairn is suspended.
From the control cairn, traverse along the shelf to the left (5 m), then along the left part of the wet inner corner through rocks of medium and above-average difficulty (40 m) to a wall left of the inner corner, down which water flows. Bypass the wall on the left along an inner corner of above-average difficulty, to the left and up (40 m). From here, along the inner corner and rocks resembling "ram's foreheads" (from left to right, 20 m), approach a snowy shelf, which is crossed directly upwards (30 m). Further along shelves and rocks of medium difficulty, approach the base of a 5-meter inner corner of above-average difficulty, which leads to the left edge bordering the south face. Here, a bivouac is possible. Then, along a 30-meter edge of medium difficulty and a 10-meter shelf from left to right and up to a difficult wall, leading to the ridge.
15 m up along the ridge, then to the left along a shelf (10 m, many "loose" stones) around the "gendarm-lob" along difficult rocks of the inner corner (20 m, ladder-like). In the upper part of the corner, to the left along a slab for 4 m and to the right and up along a 5-meter wall, then along a 10-meter slab and rocks of medium difficulty (15 m) to the edge. Up along the edge and to the right along a snowy couloir to the ridge (70 m), where a bivouac is possible.
From the bivouac, 30 m to the south ridge along rocks of medium difficulty. Along the ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on, ascend to the south summit along a snowy slope. On the summit, a control cairn. Descent along the ridge (possible cornices!) to the saddle, from it along rocks of above-average difficulty of the ridge to the summit of a gendarm, from where descend by rappel. The last gendarm before exiting to the west ridge is bypassed along a snowy shelf and couloir.
From the junction of the south and west ridges to the summit, move along a route of 3A category of difficulty (from the bivouac site to the west ridge, 500–600 m).
Route type: combined
Total length of the wall: ~500 m
Average steepness of the wall: ~60–65°
Number of pitons: ~70 pcs.
