Fig. 6
- Nakhashbīta Glavnaya via North-Eastern Ridge (the route is combined, by L. Khodyush, category III, Fig. 6).
The path from the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbīta Glacier (group of 4–8 people), to the Khazni Pass is described in route 20. At the pass, turn right and approach the rocky belt under the Nakhashbīta Pass in the Sugansky Ridge via a steep snowy slope. Climb up the rocks of medium difficulty on the left side of the belt ("live" stones, piton belay). Traverse the snowy slope above the rocky belt to reach the ice-snow ridge. Follow a steep (key belay), and after a small snow depression, a wide gentle 250–300-meter ridge-slope to reach the Nakhashbīta Pass. Set up a bivouac at the pass.
The path from the "Nakhashbīta" meadow to the Nakhashbīta Pass is described in route 10. A safer path to climb the North-Eastern ridge of Nakhashbīta is from the Tsukhgarty Glacier via a steep ice-snow slope, left of the first rocky outcrop - a rib, with an exit to the North-Eastern ridge of Glavnaya Nakhashbīta above the Nakhashbīta Pass.
When climbing from the Nakhashbīta Glacier:
- Turn right at the pass
- Climb up a simple, gentle, long, snow-covered, heavily destroyed rocky ridge
- Continue along the simple snowy North-Eastern ridge of Glavnaya Nakhashbīta
- Climb up a 120-meter gentle ice-snow slope under the ascent to the North Tower of the Main Peak
The ascent path from under the North Tower to Glavnaya Nakhashbīta is described in route 20.
Descend via the ascent path. The duration of the route is 2 days.
Literature:
- Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.
