In a beautiful video, Sasha Moroz describes his impressions of Nepal, and also talks in detail about the trek to Mera Peak via the pass https://summitx.info/ru/objects/passes/12617730/about, and the ascent to the summit. Further plans include climbing https://summitx.info/ru/objects/peaks/12763468/about via the American Direct route on the west wall.

Video guide for Polyak route (5A, rock climbing) on Peak Baychechekhey by Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to the classic route to Khan-Tengri (5A) by Dima Pavlenko.

Connor Herson from the USA has set a new standard in trad climbing by ascending the route Drifter’s Escape in Squamish, British Columbia. The route, which he graded 5.15a (9a+ in the European classification), is claiming the title of the world's most challenging trad route. The route follows meager cracks on https://summitx.info/ru/objects/peaks/17292453/about, a 700-meter granite monolith. It is a very popular wall with numerous multi-pitches. A key moment in Drifter’s Escape is a complex dynamic move called the "chase". "I didn't grade the route for several months after the ascent," Herson said. Herson announced the grade only in spring 2026 to draw media attention ahead of a film about his ascent and other notable achievements in 2025. The four-part series Born From the Climbing Life, filmed by Erik Bissell, will air next month on Black Diamond channels. Additionally, the director's cut of the first ascent of Drifter’s Escape will be featured as part of the Mellow Film Tour, starting February 27 in Boulder, Colorado. Source: ExplorersWeb, Angela Benavides

Fig. 33

8. Ascent to Mitnikov Peak (3700 m) via the Eastern Ridge — Cat. 3B (Fig. 33)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, follow the trail, then cross the Dombay River via a ford, and ascend along grassy slopes, scree, and rocky outcrops on the left side of the Inye Glacier (in rope connections on the glacier!) to a snow plateau. Continue:

• Left — ascend to the col between Maly Inye Peak (Zoloto Peak) and the spur of the Eastern summit of Jughuturuchat.
• Cross the col and exit onto the Eastern Jughuturuchat Glacier (the glacier is avalanche-prone,

Video guide to the Kuzmenko route ("Kuzma", 5A, rock climbing) on Peak Baychechekay by Dima Pavlenko.

Report

On the ascent of Ratzek Peak via the western ridge by the sports section of the "Polytechnic" Alpine Club on August 8, 2023.

I. Ascent Passport

Video guide to Balykin Route (cat. 3B, rock climbing) on Pik Boks by Dima Pavlenko.

A query from a reader (ExplorersWeb's reader — editor's note) planning a trip to Upper Mustang drew our attention to the hurdles independent climbers face when planning their Himalayan projects, especially solo ascents or attempts on unclimbed peaks in restricted areas. We reached out to a Nepalese tour operator for clarification on obtaining such permits.

Q&A

Matt Powell from the US asked:

I was hoping you could provide me with some clarification regarding Nepal's rules for solo climbers, particularly in restricted areas such as Upper Mustang and the Nar Phu valley. Is it possible for a single climber (myself) to obtain a permit to climb a peak in a restricted area if I use the services of a Nepalese guide? And if so, how do I go about it? Dawa Stephen Sherpa clarified that it is possible. However, he added, the climber must obtain the permit through a registered and certified trekking agency in Nepal. The main question, however, lies in what permits the climber needs and what are the requirements for each. It turns out that it depends on the height of the peak and involves various permits and procedures.

Expedition Peaks

Peaks above 6,500 m are considered expedition peaks and require a permit and the presence of a sirdar/guide and liaison officer on the expedition, increasing the cost. Permits for these peaks are issued by the Department of Tourism, under the Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation of Nepal. Once the climber has paid for the permit, the agency receives a letter from the Department of Tourism, which must be presented to the immigration department, issuing a second permit: the Restricted Area Permit (RAP). This allows the climber to enter the restricted zone at no additional cost, since they have already paid for the climbing permit.

Climbing Report for Peak Baychechekhey via the Right Counterfort of the Western Wall, 5A Category of Difficulty (A. Schwab Route)

Climbing Passport

1. Technical Climbing Category
2. Ak-Say, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range
3. Peak Baychechekhey, 4515 m, via the right counterfort of the western wall (A. Schwab route)
4. Category of Difficulty: 5A
5. Height Difference: 515 m (wall section) Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 250 m Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty: 90 m Average steepness of the wall section: 75°