Artkol
- Artkol via the South Ridge (V. Grecheninov's and E. Grecheninova's route. Category 1B, August 14, 1938)
The path from Verkhniy Baksan settlement to Zugulla is described in route 4. Having crossed Zugulla ford to the left bank, ascend along the trail on the right bank of the Kyrtyk river up to the confluence of a small Gicheartkol river coming in from the right. Cross Gicheartkol ford and ascend along the grassy slope of its left bank up to the upper abandoned cattle-breeding farm and further along the left bank up to the talus descending from the summit of Artkol. The initial bivouac is at the talus. 7-8 hours from Verkhniy Baksan settlement.
From here:
- turn right and ascend along the large talus to the rocky towers of the South Ridge of Artkol summit;
- further ascent along simple, heavily cut and ruined rocks of the South Ridge with numerous gendarmes;
- bypass the 1st gendarme on the left along taluses and simple ruined rocks;
- overcome the 2nd one head-on along the ridge;
- bypass the 3rd one along taluses on the left and then along a simple rocky ridge reach the 4th gendarme;
- ascend directly upwards along a 3-4-meter wall chimney of the gendarme, then ascend along the ridge to the 4th gendarme;
- further along a simple ridge;
- bypass the gendarme-tower along taluses on the left and behind it, along a heavily ruined simple rocky ascent, ascend to the summit of Artkol.
4-5 hours from the initial bivouac.
Descent:
- along the talus slope between the West and South ridges;
- after 350-400 m turn left and reach the South Ridge;
- further along the ascent route to the initial bivouac.
The duration of the route is 2 days. "Baksan Valley", A.F. Naumov