Fig. 37 184. Ronketti Glavnaya — Vostochnaya (G. Maslov's combined route, category III, fig. 37). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4–8 people) to Glavnaya Ronketti with the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in routes 83, 179, 182. From the summit Glavnaya Ronketti, descend along the simple rocks of the Eastern ridge to a narrow snowy (cornice) col under the Vostochnaya tower. Beyond the col:

• ascend along the snowy, then rocky ridge to the Vostochnaya tower of the Glavnaya summit. From the Vostochnaya tower, descend 30–40 m along the gently sloping Eastern ridge. Then descend 70–80 m from the ridge to the right along a narrow, steep rocky couloir ("live" rocks — piton belay) to a rocky slope. Above the slope, exit the couloir and, after traversing a small ledge to the left, rappel 20 m down the wall to the slabs. Along the not steep slabs with many footholds, traverse to the left to the Eastern ridge and descend along the heavily destroyed rocky ridge to the sandy areas of the col between Glavnaya and Vostochnaya peaks of the Ronketti massif. Descent from the Vostochnaya tower is possible along the Eastern ridge with a 40 m rappel down the wall. From the col, ascend 50–60 m up the simple rocks of the Western ridge of the Vostochnaya Ronketti summit. Then, along a wide crack to the right of a narrow couloir, ascend a 25–30-meter wall (key point of the route — piton belay) to a ledge. From the ledge:

Fig. 23 97. Skatikom (4450 m) via the East Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 22, 23). The path from the Tsey region's KSP or from the Dzinaga settlement (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West Ridge of the Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, via the East branch of the Karaugom plateau (closed crevasses), approach the glacial-snow slope of the wide couloir descending from the saddle of the Skatikom's East Ridge. Ascent:

• From the plateau, cross the bergschrund and ascend the left side of the gentle glacial-snow slope towards the saddle.
• Before reaching the saddle, turn left and move up the glacial-snow couloir.
• Then, via simple rocks, reach the East Ridge's connecting ridge, left and above the large East pinnacle.
• On the connecting ridge, turn left and follow the glacial-snow East Ridge (cornices), bypassing small pinnacles on the left, to approach the rocky ascent.

Skatikom

Skatikom (4450 m) is located in the Saudorosky ridge between Vologata to the west and the small first gendarme of the North-Eastern ridge of the Songuti peak in the Tseysky ridge to the east. The Eastern and Western ridges of Skatikom enclose the Karaugom plateau from the north. Skatikom's northern slopes:

• are heavily snowy
• steep From the Karaugom plateau side:
• more gentle
• destroyed

95. Skatikom (4450 m) via the Western ridge, Category 3B difficulty (A. Kharlampiev and 4

¹

1. False summit
2. Main summit
3. "Black gendarme"
4. Shelf
5. II ridge connector
6. I ridge connector
7. Overhanging rock in couloir

IV SW ridge III Route Sections: R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R7, R8, R9, R10, R11, R12, R13, R14, R15, R16, R17, R18, R19, R20, R21, R22, R23, R24, R25, R26, R27, R28, R29 Section Descriptions:

• 50 m 50° 3
• 20 m 60° 3
• 30 m 50° 3
• 40 m 50° 3

119. SONGUTI-ULARG, TRAVERSE

(combined route) category III The path from the "Torpedo" camp goes along the trail along the Tsey-Don River to the Uilpata River, where it is necessary to turn upwards (to the right). By the stream flowing down the "sheep's foreheads" from the Uilpatinsky Glacier (C-3), the path turns towards this glacier, ascending to the right end of the glacier. When ascending, one should beware of rockfall. The glacier should be ascended in the middle, heading towards the overhanging wall of the icefall. The wall is the edge of the firn plateau that feeds the Uilpatinsky Glacier and the nameless glacier sliding down to the northern branch of the Tsey Glacier. Both these glaciers are divided by the eastern shoulder of Uilpata. From this icefall - the serac - one should bypass it from the left (in the direction of travel), ascending along the avalanche deposits, cross the bergschrund, and exit onto the scree, ascending along it to the ridge of the western end of the eastern shoulder of Uilpata. When ascending to the ridge, beware of rockfall. From the ridge of the eastern shoulder of Uilpata, cross over to the firn plateau and head in the direction of the Sonquti ridge, towards the 10-3 ridge. When ascending to the ridge, one should keep to the direction of the second (counting from Uilpata) "gendarme" along the firn and partly icy slope. Initially, overcome a small bergschrund and approach the rocks along the slope, ascending through the couloirs, and exit onto the 10-3 ridge of Sonquti. When ascending, it is necessary to beware of avalanches and rockfall. On the ridge near the "gendarme", a bivouac can be organized. Further, the path goes along the 10-3 ridge to the Sonquti summit. On the ridge, there are two more "gendarmes":

• the first is small and can be passed easily;

UILPATA

Southwestern ridge Sonnguti pass 110 ㅍ North ridge-slope Northwestern edge Ukhalpatinsky pass 103.12

UILPATA

V. Uilpata via the fourth buttress of the South ridge, category 4B

Here is the original image: and here are the different crops of this image to help you see better, use these only as hints:

32. Western summit of Elbrus via the Western shoulder (route category 2B, fig. 8–10). From the village of Terskol, ascend first along the road, then along the trail on the right side of the Azausue valley and, after 4 hours, reach the initial bivouac at the Old Panoramic Viewpoint (Stary Krogzor) located on the southernmost (southeastern) spur of the Elbrus massif. From the Panoramic Viewpoint (departure at 2–3 am) turn left and via the moraine, and then along the Maly Azau glacier, reach the snowy plateau. Across the plateau (covered crevices!), then along a small, gently sloping snowy slope, reach the rocky ridge to the right (north) of the Khotiu-Tau pass and the Nameless avalanche glacier descending into the Ullukam valley. From the Old Panoramic Viewpoint, 4–4.5 hours. Here, turn right and along the simple rocks of the ridge, reach the rocky ridge descending into the Ullukam valley, along the right bank of the avalanche glacier. Traverse this ridge and along simple, in places moderately difficult, destroyed, snow-covered (cornices!) rocks of the ridge, ascending in the direction of the Western shoulder, reach the snowy ridge. Along the sharp (cornices!), then wide snowy ridge, ascend to the Western shoulder of the Elbrus massif. On a small snowy saddle to the right of the shoulder — bivouac. From the Khotiu-Tau pass, 3–5 hours. From the saddle, ascend northeast along the snowy fields with gradually increasing steepness, traverse left to avoid the Western summit of Elbrus and reach below the northwestern rocky ridge of the Western summit. From here, along the simple rocks of the ridge or along the snow beside the rocks — a steep ascent to the Western summit of the Elbrus massif. From the shoulder, 5–6 hours.