325. Tsal­g­myl via North­west ridge (combined route, V. Sigalov, cat.4A, fig. 32, 43). From Nak­ra vil­lage cross Nak­ra river and as­cend the valley along the trail on the right bank. Before the third stream com­ing down from the west­ern slopes of Tsal­g­myl turn right and con­tinue through the for­est, then along the grassy slope of the North­west ridge of Tsal­g­myl. Leave the ridge on the left onto the right-lateral mo­raine of Tsal­g­myl glacier and con­tinue up­wards. From the end of the mo­raine reach the glacier. Traverse the glacier to the left avoid­ing hang­ing seracs, then turn right and as­cend a steep glacier to the up­per plateau above the seracs. From the plateau as­cend snowy slopes to reach the plat­forms on the North­west ridge of Tsal­g­myl. Start­ing bi­vak. From Nak­ra vil­lage 6–7 hrs. From the plat­forms as­cend along the icy-snowy North­west ridge (cornices) to the black rocks. Pass the rocks in a corner or traverse them on the left. Fur­ther as­cend along the sharp North­west ridge, a slab, mod­er­ately dif­fi­cult heav­ily dam­aged rocks with snowy con­nec­tions (cornices) to a plat­form un­der the North­ern gendarme. Traverse the gendarme on the left and reach the wall of the rocky belt of the summit. As­cend dif­fi­cult icy rocks of the couloir wall at 4050 m, then a steep slab of mod­er­ate dif­fi­culty lead­ing out of the couloir on the left, then 40 m along the monolithic dif­fi­cult rocks of the wall (crux).

From the Baksan valley, through the Donguz-Orun pass, we enter the Nakra valley. Along the trail, which follows the left (orographically) bank of the Nakra River, we reach the confluence of the Kvish and Nakra rivers. We cross a small bridge over the Kvish River and begin ascending along the left (orographically) bank of the Kvish River to the left lateral moraine. There are areas for overnight stays in the upper part of the moraine. The journey from Terskol to these areas takes around 10 hours. From the moraine, staying on the right side (as we move forward), under the slopes of v. Leyrag, we pass onto the plateau under the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging, depending on the season. In August, there is steep, razored ice. The ascent to the Kvish pass is to the left of the icefall, sticking to the rocks. A rock ascent is possible. The rocks are of medium

From the Baksan valley through the Donguz-Orun pass we get into the Nakra valley. Along the trail, going along the left (orographically) bank of the Nakra river, we reach the confluence of the Kvish river and the Nakra river. We cross a small bridge over the Kvish river and start the ascent along the left (orographically) bank of the Kvish river to the left lateral moraine. There are sites for overnight stays in the upper part of the moraine. The journey from Terokol to these sites takes about 10 hours. From the moraine, keeping to the right side (in the direction of travel) under the slopes of p. Leyrag, we make our way to the plateau under the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging, depending on the time of year. In August, there is steep broken ice. The ascent to the Kvish pass is to the left of the icefall, keeping to the rocks. It is possible to ascend via the rocks, which are of medium difficulty, with piton belays. To the northeast of the Kvish pass is p. Ledesh, and directly to the south is p. Leyrag.

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CLASS: rock
2. ASCENT AREA: Main Caucasus Range, Northern spur of Ullukara.
3. ASCENT ROUTE WITH INDICATION OF PEAKS AND THEIR HEIGHTS: v. Cheget-Kara – 3667 m, via the left Southeast buttress.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 4A cat. diff.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference: 850–900 m, average slope – 45°, length of complex section – 240 m.
6. NUMBER OF PITO NS INSTALLED: rock – 12, ice –
7. NUMBER OF TRAVELING HOURS: 7 hours.
8. NUMBER OF OVERNIGHT STAYS: –
9. FULL NAME OF LEADER, PARTICIPANTS, AND THEIR QUALIFICATION:

4. Chotchat Main via the Northeast Buttress - East Ridge

(combined route, category 2A difficulty, fig. 1, 2). From the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) cross the Adyrsu River by bridge, turn right and down, and follow the trail to reach the Koyavgan stream, cross it, and follow the right bank trail, passing through green areas, to approach the right-bank moraine. Along the moraine, bypassing the tongue of the Koyavgan glacier and its broken part on the right, reach the upper plateau of the glacier. From here, traverse the glacier up and to the left (closed crevices) and ascend the steep ice-snow slope to the saddle (cornice) of the long East Ridge of the large Black pillar standing in the Adylsky Ridge between the peaks:

98. Shkhelda East with ascent to the "saw" of the East ridge via Central North couloir (B. Garf route, 5A cat.). The path from the "Shkhelda" alplager (4-5 people) through the Shkhelda gorge to the "Shkhelda overnight stays" is described in route 111. From the "Shkhelda overnight stays" (departure not later than 1:00 am) cross the glacier and reach the wide snow-ice Central North couloir descending from the East ridge - "saw" of Shkhelda East summit. Ascend the couloir via avalanche debris, then, sticking to the left side, 400-500 m up (avalanches, rocks!) until crevasses and ice seracs. Further, between crevasses and seracs 200 m

83. Western Shkhelda from the south (route 2B cat. difficulty). The path from the "Shkhelda" alpine camp to the col between Western Shkhelda and Profsoyuzov peak with the initial bivouac on the South Shkhelda glacier is described in routes 72 and 80. Group size is 4-20 people. On the col:

• Turn right and ascend simple rocks of the Western ridge of Western Shkhelda peak to the "Finger" gendarme.
• Bypass the gendarme along the ledges on the right side (protection!) with an exit to the saddle below the rocky ascent to the summit.
• From the saddle, descend 60-80 m to the right down a scree gully.
• From it, traverse simple rocks and scree to the left to the base of a narrow icy gully. descending from the South ridge, and along the terrace, ascend to the South ridge. Ascend simple rocks and scree of the South ridge, then ascend the scree slope to the summit of Western Shkhelda. From the col - 3-4 hours. Descent is via the ascent route. Duration of the route is 4 days. Required equipment:

4.

Description of the route to Peak P — 10 "Zapadnaya" from the 1018 Shhelda shelter and Kur­sant­ov Pass

cat. diff. 3–6, peak height 4310 m (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) From the "Spartak" camp, we head out on a trail that leads along the slope of the Shhelda valley to the Arnstov hut. The journey from the camp to the Arnstov hut takes 3–5 hours; there are convenient areas for overnight stays and water. From the Arnstov hut, the trail leads to a steep ascent to the moraine, then crosses a stream flowing from a hanging glacier, and continues straight in the direction of Melkaya Shhelda. In the upper part (to the right of the path), there is a rocky massif with good areas for overnight stays. The journey from the "Spartak" camp to the overnight stay takes 6–8 hours. The further path goes in the direction of Pass O through the middle part of the glacier, and in case of little snow — slightly to the right of the peak along a steep snow-ice slope, the path to Sredniy Pass.

89. Peak Aristova via the South Couloir and West Ridge (O. Aristova's route, category 4A). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) via the Shkheldinsky and Aksu glaciers through Peak Fizkulturnik is described in route 80, and through Biwacny pass - in route 87. The initial bivouac is on the South Shkhelda plateau. Traverse the snowy plateau of the South Shkhelda glacier along the southern walls of the Shkhelda massif and, after passing a wide snowy couloir with ice falls, turn left and ascend a narrow, long couloir to the "ram's foreheads" on the southern slope of the massif. The "ram's foreheads" are located between two wide snowy couloirs descending from the southern slopes of the Shkhelda massif onto the South Shkhelda glacier plateau. Bivouac on the площадки. From "Aristova's overnight stay" 11–13 hours. From the "ram's foreheads," traverse right to ascend, crossing a snowy couloir, to a rocky outcrop in the center of a wide snowy couloir. From the outcrop, ascend via the right couloir to a snowy saddle under the rocky walls. From the saddle, traverse the snowy slope left to a depression under the rocky walls. Then, up and left along the ice-snow slope of the couloir. Having passed two snowy "neckties," ascend via the right side of the steep snowy couloir to the saddle of the West ridge of Peak Aristova, between peaks Nauka and Aristova (snowy slopes of the couloir are avalanche-prone!). From the "ram's foreheads" 6–9 hours. Here, in a snowy depression, leave your backpacks and ascend Peak Aristova via a simple, wide snowy ridge. From the point of reaching the ridge, 1 hour. Descend from the peak via the ascent route. Duration of the route is 5 days.