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Ascent to the summit of Shalbuzdag (4150 m) via the Eastern couloir, category 1B difficulty, in the Eastern Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class
  2. Ascent area
  3. Peak, its height and ascent route
  4. Proposed difficulty category
  5. Route characteristics:
  6. Number of pitons hammered for belay: rock, ice, bolted
  7. Number of travel hours
  8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics
  9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification
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Ascent to the summit of Bazardyuzi (4466 m) via the South Ridge, category 1B complexity, route description, technical information and trip details.

Bazardyuzi via South Ridge. Ragimov E. M. East Caucasus 2.11

Passport

  1. Character of the route — combined
  2. East Caucasus, Yatuхdere, Shakhnabad, Kusarçay gorges
  3. Bazardyuzi via South Ridge
  4. Category 1B — first ascent
  5. Height difference — 1160 m, length — 2850 m
    Average steepness of the main part — 25°
  6. Duration — 5 hours
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Ascent to Aag volcano (2310 m) via the western slope, 1B difficulty category, ascent time is 5-6 hours, ski descent is possible.

Mt. Aag. 2310 m, cat. 1B, to the 3rd slope, M. Ostrogorsky. 1977. From the base camp located on the Dremuchiy stream. The approach to the western slope is along a flat valley of lava fields. The ascent begins on a wide ridge along a snowy slope covered with large slag (see photo). Further along the ridge to the snowy ascent with small rock outcrops, the ascent is along the rocks to the shoulder. From the shoulder, the ascent is along the snowy slope to the summit dome. The entire route is traversed simultaneously. The ascent time is 5–6 hours. The descent from the summit is via the ascent route. However, it is possible to descend from the dome into a wide couloir leading to the west parallel to the route. It is safe and very convenient for skiing down.

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Ascent to Arik volcano via the Western slope, 1B category of difficulty, combined route, duration 5 hours.

VOLCANO ARIK Western slope 1B M. Ostrogorsky 77 Combined The base camp is best located on the forest boundary in the Dremuchiy stream. The approach from the camp to the route goes through a snowy hollow (it's possible to approach on skis), through a steep ascent - exit to a snowy plateau. Snow ascent to the slope of the summit with rocky fields. From it - to a snowy cirque with rocky outcrops of triangular shape. Ascent is along the left edge, without going down, to the right. Before the summit cirque, the shoulder goes to the right, along it - exit directly to the summit. Ascent time - 5 hours. Descent is via the ascent route.

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Description of a technical route, category 2B complexity level, to the summit of Kuli-Zoi (4550 m) in the Pamir Mountains, with a detailed description of the approach and ascent.

ASCENT PASS

  1. Ascent category: Technical.
  2. Ascent area: Central Pamir, Vanchsky Ridge.
  3. Peak Kuli-Zod South, height 4550 m. The route is combined.
  4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2B.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • Elevation gain 1200 m.
    • Average steepness 15–20°.
  6. No pitons were used. Belaying was done through natural features.
  7. Total climbing time: 11–13 hours.
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Peak XIX Party Congress with difficulties 4-6 through the Achik-Tash gorge and Lenin glacier.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF PIK IMENI XIX PARTS'EZDA 4-6 km / Cat. 3 level 20-22 / 11-69 V. Zomengue, G. Rajnev, G. Kopmenvag, N. Konogibkhutke, N. Monovvo. From the bivouac located in the "Achiktash" gorge near the large lake, the path goes along the Achiktash River to the "onion" meadow (photo I). From here, there are 2 possible paths to the slopes of Pik XIX parts'ezda (see the map-scheme of the area):

  1. Descent from the "onion" meadow into the Achiktash River canyon
  2. Crossing the river
  3. Exit along the moraine deposits of Lenin Glacier to the slopes of the summit The approach takes 4 hours, but it's difficult to organize the crossing.
  4. Ascent from the "onion" meadow along the moraine of the glacier to its lowering (Enthusiasts' pass) ("Paltka" rock remains on the left along the group's movement). Descent from the moraine along a steep slope into a couloir (photo 3) under the "red rocks" and along it - exit to the tongue of the glacier under the icefall. There are many loose rocks in the couloir, descend carefully. Cross the tongue of the glacier, leaving the icefall on the right along the path. Be cautious of falling rocks and seracs from the icefall, do not approach closely! Ascent to the right (orographic) moraine of the glacier and along it - approach to the slopes of the summit. The path takes 5-6 hours. It's better to stop near a small lake. With an overnight stay near the lake, exit early in the morning (6-7 hours) to the western spur of the ridge leading to the summit. Ascent along a steep scree, then along strongly broken rocks forward and upward. Movement is simultaneous.
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Ascent to the summit 4570 m in the Zaalaysky ridge via a couloir with the 2A difficulty category, ascent time 5-6 hours.

The summit 4570 m is located in the upper reaches of the Kок-Kыик river valley, in the northern ridge, branching off from the peak 5680 m (the latter is located in the main Trans-Alay range). From the "3800" camp, the route initially goes straight to the ridge along the left (orographic) grassy slope. After 20–25 minutes of walking, it is necessary to:

  • cross the Kок-Kыик river at the point where a stream, flowing from the slopes of the peak 4570 m, flows into it, and
  • ascend along this stream. Another 35–40 minutes of walking - the route approaches the foot of the peak. The height at this point is 4000 m.
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The ascent to the summit via the North-Eastern Ridge, complexity category 1B, takes 6.5 hours and requires standard equipment for ice and rock climbing.

The ascent to the ridge in its lower part from the overnight stay takes 1.5 hours. Then the movement goes up the ridge in the general direction towards the peak Sverdlova massif. The average steepness of the ridge is 30–35°, but there are separate sections up to 45–50°, where alternate belay is required. The movement along the ridge to the summit takes 3 hours. The summit is a rocky outcrop where a spur branches off to the southeast from the main northeastern ridge. From the summit, the northern and eastern slopes of the peak Sverdlova massif and the eastern part of the Zadadsky ridge are well visible. Descent is via the ascent route. It takes 2 hours to reach the overnight stay. Category: 1B. Recommended equipment for a group of 4 people:

  • Main rope (30 m) — 2 pcs.
  • Tent — 1 pc.
  • Ice screws — 2 pcs.
  • Rock hammer — 1 pc.
  • Crampons — 4 pairs
  • Carabiners — 6 pcs. The description was compiled by alpinism instructor A. Kiselev
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Description of category 1B route to the peak 4670 m in the Trans-Alay range via the south-eastern ridge.

Description

of the route to the summit 4670 m (along the south-eastern ridge) The summit 4670 m is located in the spur of the Zaalaysky ridge, where the peak Sverdlova is situated. North of the peak Sverdlova, the spur bifurcates into two ridges:

  • One initially goes northwest, then turns northeast.
  • The other, shorter one, goes immediately northeast. The summit 4670 m is located in it. The route begins from the "3800" camp, located in the upper reaches of the Kок-Kyik valley, crosses an old moraine and approaches the ridge of the summit 4670 m. The azimuth of the summit from
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Description of the route to the summit from the "Peredovoy" shelter along a snow-ice slope and ridge with an ascent of 300 m, slope steepness up to 50° and a duration of 3-3.5 hours.

Technical Description of the Route

2624 The description of the route from base camp "4300" to camp "Peredovoy" is given in the description of the first ascent of Pik Fikker made by a group of the Chelyabinsk expedition of the Zenit Sports Association under the general leadership of Master of Sports of the USSR Levin M.S. From camp "Peredovoy" (see photo 1 and 2), ascend along the rocks via a snow-ice slope covered with calga-spores to the ridge. The slope's steepness is 30–40°. The height gain to the ridge is 300 m. High calga-spores, especially on steep sections, ensure safe movement early in the morning. Movement is in rope teams. Time to ascend to the ridge is 1 hour. Further movement is along the ridge. The ridge is snowy, with protruding rocky outcrops, and is wide. The steepness of the slopes forming it is 40–50°. The steepness of the ridge from the point of ascent to the summit varies from 10–15° to 40–45°. Before reaching the summit, one can move along the talus or to the right along the snowy slope. Movement along the entire path is in rope teams. Time to ascend along the ridge to the summit: 1–1.5 hours. The summit is a dome formed by gently sloping snowy slopes. From the summit, a beautiful view of the surrounding panorama opens up:

  • Pik Revolyutsii,
  • Pik Fikker,
  • Pik 26 Baku Commissars,
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