DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF PIK IMENI XIX PARTS'EZDA 4-6 km / Cat. 3 level 20-22 / 11-69 V. Zomengue, G. Rajnev, G. Kopmenvag, N. Konogibkhutke, N. Monovvo.
From the bivouac located in the "Achiktash" gorge near the large lake, the path goes along the Achiktash River to the "onion" meadow (photo I). From here, there are 2 possible paths to the slopes of Pik XIX parts'ezda (see the map-scheme of the area):
- Descent from the "onion" meadow into the Achiktash River canyon
- Crossing the river
- Exit along the moraine deposits of Lenin Glacier to the slopes of the summit
The approach takes 4 hours, but it's difficult to organize the crossing.
- Ascent from the "onion" meadow along the moraine of the glacier to its lowering (Enthusiasts' pass) ("Paltka" rock remains on the left along the group's movement). Descent from the moraine along a steep slope into a couloir (photo 3) under the "red rocks" and along it - exit to the tongue of the glacier under the icefall. There are many loose rocks in the couloir, descend carefully. Cross the tongue of the glacier, leaving the icefall on the right along the path. Be cautious of falling rocks and seracs from the icefall, do not approach closely! Ascent to the right (orographic) moraine of the glacier and along it - approach to the slopes of the summit. The path takes 5-6 hours. It's better to stop near a small lake.
With an overnight stay near the lake, exit early in the morning (6-7 hours) to the western spur of the ridge leading to the summit.
Ascent along a steep scree, then along strongly broken rocks forward and upward. Movement is simultaneous.
Exit to the ridge - just before the vélodrome. On the snowy ridge: rope up, put on crampons and move along the pronounced snow-ice ridge in the direction of the summit.
An early exit on the route ensures fast movement along the frozen firn.