Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area — Kamchatka, Bystrinsky ridge.
2. Peak — Vlk. Vackhazhec 1547 m, via North-Eastern ridge.
3. Ascent class — Combined.
4. Estimated category of difficulty 1B (Winter)
5. Height difference — 850 m.
6. Route length — 1320 m.
7. Number of days — 1 day.
8. Number of travel hours — 6 hours.
9. Leader, participants, surname and initials, sports rank.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

• Climbing category — rock
• Climbing area — Kamchatka, Poperechny ridge
• Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Vilyuchinsky, 2173 m
• Proposed difficulty category — 2B
• Route characteristics — elevation gain — 1700 m, average steepness — 40–45°
• Pitons driven:
  • for rock protection — 4
  • ice — 1

Map of the Area

Description of the ascent to the summit of Kamen via the NORTHERN EDGE, 4A cat. diff.

The Kamen peak is part of the Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes. It is the second highest peak in Kamchatka. Its absolute height above sea level is 4650 m. Kamen is a volcano of volcanic origin. It is the oldest volcano in the Klyuchevskaya group. Its slopes are composed of volcanic rocks: – basalt – diabase. The volcano has a very large glaciation from the foot to the summit. The glaciers flowing from it to the north and northwest flow into the Svetly glacier. From the western side, the icy slopes are largely cut by rocky ridges. To the east of the summit, there is a sheer rock wall (2700 m) down to the Shmidt glacier, see photo 2.

35

Description

Ascent to Ovalnaya Zimina volcano via the southwestern ridge, category 3A difficulty.

• Route to Ovalnaya Zimina volcano, western.
• Route to Ovalnaya Zimina volcano, southwestern.

Ovalnaya Zimina volcano. General view.

Description

24

Report

On the first ascent of the route to peak Osypnoy via the north-west ridge, category 4A (approximately), accomplished by a "two-person team" from the KBVO training camp on August 12, 1979. TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route Team captain M. Sabirov Base camp of the KBVO training camp ↓ overnight stay location — route of movement. Brief description of the approach to the route. From the base camp, located near the lakes on the bank of the Vanch River, follow the road to the bridge over the Abdukagor River (0.3 hours). Cross the bridge. To the left, a trail begins, leading to the start of the Russian Geographic Society glacier. Follow it to the lateral moraine (1 hour). Then along the moraine (cairns) to the stream flowing from the slopes of peak Osypnoy and v. Krasnoarmeets. Up the stream to a large boulder. Overnight stay (camping site). www.alpfederation.ru![img-2.jpeg]({"width":2328,"height":1601,"format":"Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/O34S8jYJsRflYhiikg4lWtqTcFnmrt0v/img-2.jpeg","id":64763968})

углом. There is a small area for one person. From the area, the ascent goes through a crack (7 m), which turns into a narrow chimney (12 m), the steepness of the section is 80–85°. The chimney leads to an area where 6–8 people can be accommodated, and there is 1 control cairn on the area. From the control cairn, the ascent goes straight up through an internal corner (810 m), then traversing left — exit to the external corner and ascent along it 20–25 m to a black inclined shelf going left upwards. From it, it is necessary to move to the right, traversing a complex slab-like part of the wall — 20 m — to a chimney. The chimney widens upwards and is closed by a plug in its upper part. The length of the chimney is 20–25 m. At the base of the chimney, there is a small area where backpacks can be received and

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent classification: Technical.
2. Ascent region (as per ETMР): Pamir, Yazgulyam range, Rushan Gates area (Oduudy Pass).
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: N. Polikarpov peak (4900) from the west.
4. Expected difficulty category: 2A.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain – 500 m, average slope – 45°. Length of sections: R1–60 m, R2–40 m, R3–50 m.
6. Number of pitons: for belay:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock.
2. Ascent areas — Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Bashnya, 2800 m, via the northern counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 150 m; average steepness — 45°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying — 0; for Aids — 0.

Dzhailyk via Western Ridge (V. Ruzhevsky route, 5A cat.) The route is sometimes called “Women's Five” or “Dombay Five”, implying easy dry rocks (up to cat. V) that can be realistically climbed in a day even by women. We have a good opinion about women climbers, as this route is not that easy; moreover, in bad weather it becomes virtually impassable, unlike “Monakh”.

• A bivouac can be set up at “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” (Upper Kichkidar Camps) or on the saddle below Donkin Pass.
• From the Western Yunom Glacier, move from the bivouac to the base of the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via the avalanche debris and ice-snow slope of the Central couloir, along the rocks on the left side, approach the first inner corner at the base of the Western Ridge.
• From “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” it takes about 1 hour. From here:
• Up the moderately difficult 30-meter inner corner, then via smoothed steep 40–50-meter slabs ascend to the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via monolithic steep slabs of above-average difficulty with short difficult walls on the Western Ridge, ascend 200–250 m to the Lower Triangle summit plateau.
• From the plateau, 50–60 m up a steep smoothed slab of above-average difficulty, then 30 m up a wall with a chimney-crack to a rock outcrop.