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Description

Ascent to Ovalnaya Zimina volcano via the southwestern ridge, category 3A difficulty.

• Route to Ovalnaya Zimina volcano, western.
• Route to Ovalnaya Zimina volcano, southwestern.

Ovalnaya Zimina volcano. General view.

Description

Ascent to Ovalnaya Zimina via the southwestern ridge, category 3A difficulty.

1. Approach to the starting point of the ascent.

The path from the base camp to the start of the ascent is almost the same as to the start of the ascent via category 2B difficulty. Approaching the descent from the plateau between Ploskiy Tolbachik and Povorotnaya mountain, one should head towards the Pastukhov valley, located under the southern slopes of Ovalnaya Zimina, and 1.5 km before it, turn into the gorge between two broad slag elevations.

Directly ahead, a long firn field is visible, flowing into this gorge. Walls are visible at the top of the field.

Moving through the gorge, we reach a snowfield and follow it to an inclined plateau. We approach the southwestern ridge and set up a bivouac. There is water and good sites. Time from the base camp: 7 hours. Elevation: –1450 m.

2. Description of the ascent by sections. Relative height from the overnight stay location — 1631 m.
   • Section 1. Height difference 580 m. Steepness 20–25°. Slope consists of small and medium slag scree. Time to complete the section — 1 hour 35 minutes.
   • Section 2. Height difference 200 m. Steepness of slopes 25–30°. Slope consists of medium and steep scree, transitioning into a rocky ridge requiring alternating insurance via outcrops. The rocky ridge has a gap at its upper cone, representing a rocky threshold, overcome by a 20 m rappel. Time to complete — 1 hour 40 minutes.
   • Section 3. Height difference 150 m. Steepness 30–35°. Ridge consists of destroyed rocks with individual gendarmes; detour requires increased attention. Rockfall is common. Traverse in rope teams with simultaneous insurance. Time to complete 1 hour.
   • Section 4. Height difference 80 m. Steepness 65–70° with a flattening to 40°. At the start of the section, there is a wall gendarme that is not bypassed and requires piton insurance for 35 m and a 20 m rappel. Section is rockfall-prone. Time to complete — 1 hour 30 minutes.
   • Section 5. Height difference 250 m. Steepness 40–50°. Ridge consists of destroyed rocks. Traverse in rope teams with simultaneous insurance and, in some places, alternating insurance. Time to complete — 2 hours 50 minutes.
   • Section 6. Height difference 210 m. Steepness 45–50°. Ridge consists of destroyed rocks and individual slabs. In the middle of the section, an inclined slab is visible, traversed with piton insurance for 12–15 m. The rest of the route is traversed with simultaneous insurance. Time to complete — 2 hours.
   • Section 7. Height difference 160 m. Steepness 25–30°. Snow-ice slope. Traverse with simultaneous insurance. Time to complete — 1 hour 30 minutes.

3. Descent from the summit.

Descent from the summit initially follows the path of ascent for two sections. In the middle of the third section, we turn right along the path into a stone chute, which leads to a snowfield. The first section is traversed with simultaneous insurance. The second and half of the third section — with alternating insurance. Time to complete — 2 hours 30 minutes. The remaining section of the descent goes along the snowfield with simultaneous insurance. Time to complete — 1 hour 10 minutes.

4. Calculation of the route completion time.

Day 1. Approach from the camp to the starting point of the ascent — 7 hours.

Day 2.

• R1 – 1 hour 35 minutes.
• R2 – 1 hour 40 minutes.
• R3 – 1 hour.
• R4 – 1 hour 30 minutes.
• R5 – 2 hours 50 minutes.
• R6 – 2 hours.
• R7 – 1 hour 30 minutes.

Time spent on descent:

• First section and half of the third section – 2 hours 30 minutes.
• Remaining section of descent along the snowfield – 1 hour 10 minutes.

Total for the second day — 15 hours 45 minutes.

Day 3. Return to the base camp — 7 hours.

5. Recommendations for climbers.

Everyone should wear helmets. The group should bring two pairs of crampons. Group size — 4 people.

Overnight stay sites can be found along the route. However, water is scarce. Special equipment for a group of 6 people:

• 1. Main ropes: 3 × 40 m.
• 2. Rock pitons — 6 pieces.
• 3. Alpine hammers — 2 pieces.
• 4. Carabiners — 4 pieces.
• 5. Repschnur for loops — 5 m.
• 6. Personal equipment.
• 7. Bivouac equipment.

First ascent made on August 8, 1971. Description compiled on November 6, 1971. (V. Kosov)