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Route Description: 3 стене
First ascent of Peak A. Blok (5229 m) by the West Face in Pamir-Alay, rated as 6B complexity category.
PASSPORT
I. Category of first ascents 2. Pamir-Alay, Ak-Su valley 3. Peak A. Blok, 5229 m, via West Face 4. Proposed category 6B, first ascent 5. Height difference of the route 760 m, "wall section" 688 m, length — 965 m. Length of sections with category difficulty 5–6 — 805 m, of which category 6 — 425 m. Average steepness of the wall — 78 ± 80° 6. Pitons driven:
- rock: 119 (driven), 40 (left)
- bolt: 32 (driven), 12 (left)
- protection devices: 187 (driven), 60 (left)
Route Description: правому кф. ЮЗ стены
Ascent record of Peak 4974 (F. Dostoevsky) via the right counterfort of the wall, grade 5A, climbed by a team led by m.s. Evstigneev A.V. in 1982.
Ascent Day Passport
I. Ascent classification — technical 2. Ascent area, ridge — Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan 3. Peak, its height, route — peak 4974 (F. Dostoevsky) via the right counterfort 10–3 of the wall 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 550 m length of sections — 6th cat. diff. — 120 m, average steepness — wall sections — 60° 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying — 56 for creating belay anchors — 5
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Report on the ascent of route 6A category of complexity via the North-West wall of Pik Asan (4230 m) in Karavshin valley, made by the team of Ryazan regional federation of mountaineering and rock climbing in 1999.
— 1 — 6А 2-е μ² 4¹/² 4¹/² Peak Asan (4230 m) via the NW wall center, 6А cat., Gorbенко route, 1986. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range. Karavshin gorge.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent plan — technical
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin gorge
- Peak Asan (4230 m) via the NW wall center, Gorbенко (Odessa) route, 1986, ninth ascent
- Cat. — 6А
- Height difference — 830 m. Length — 1015 m; including 5–6 cat. — 865 m, with 6 cat. — 415 m. Average slope — 78°, 6 cat. — 85°.
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Description of the route of 6th d.iff. of the first ascent of Asan peak (4230 m) via the right side of the NW wall in the Pamir-Alay with a detailed tactical plan and details of the ascent.
PASSPORT
I. Rock class
2. Pamir-Alai, Karasu gorge
3. V. Asan (4230 m) via the right part of the N wall
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference: 1030 m, length - 1435 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 630 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 70° (3300-4150 m), including 6B category of difficulty 36° (3400-3700 m); 81° (3300-3360 m).
6. Used on the route: rock pitons - 8/0, bolt pitons - 13/8, chocks - 220/37.
7. Climbing hours - 45, days - 4.5 (including descent).
Route Description: центр. кф. 3 стены
Description of the first ascent of Dukhtarcha peak (3800 m) via the Central counterfort of the West wall, complexity category 4B.
- Summit — Dukhtarcha (3800 m) via the Central Counterfort of the Western wall. 35 with 9 d.g.
- Assumed category of difficulty — 4B, first ascent.
- Route length — 900 m.
- Length of sections with III–IV categories — 475 m, V category — 55 m. Average slope of the route — 40°. Average slope of the wall part of the route — 52°. Height difference
- 580 m
- Pitons hammered in: rock — 23, chockstones — 25.
Route Description: центр. кф. С стены
Description of a technically challenging Category 6B route to the 4,490 m "Ptitsa" peak in the Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay, in 1989.
Ascent Passport
- Climbing category — technical.
- Climbing region — Pamir-Altai, Turkestan Range.
- p. 4490 m («Ptitsa») via the central counterfort of the N wall.
- Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Height difference — 780 m, length — 810 m. Length — 5–6 category of difficulty — 630 m, out of which 6 category of difficulty — 450 m. Average steepness — 72° (3710–4490), steepness of the wall section 77° (3760–4390).
- Pitons hammered in:
- rock: 131, out of which 94 removed
- bolt: 8, out of which 4 removed
Route Description: правой части СЗ стены
Report on the ascent made by the Primorye Alpinism Federation team to the summit of Slesova (4240 m) via the 6A category route on the right part of the NW wall.
Report on the Ascent of the Primorye Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing Team to the Summit of Slesova (4240 m), A. Klenov's Route via the Right Part of the NW Wall, Variation
Russian Championship, Technical Climbing Class, Pamir-Alai, Karavshin, July — August 2013
Climbing Passport
- Pamir-Alai, Karavshin gorge, 5.4.3
- Slesova peak, 4240 m, via the right part of the NW wall
- Proposed: 6A category, A. Klenov's route, variation
- Route character: rock climbing
- Height difference: 830 m Route length: 1220 m Section lengths:
- V category — 200 m
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the descent route from Peak Uson via the Rzhanoi ridge, photograph taken on July 18, 1990.
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The descent route from p. Uson along the rжаной ridge. Taken on July 18, 1990 from the perenka,
altitude 3800 m, distance to the summit 600 m, 12:00, camera «Смена-7».
Route Description: расщелине В стены
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Usan (4379 m) via the crevice on the eastern wall, category 4B complexity level, in Pamir-Alay.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category — technical.
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range.
- Peak — Usan (4379) via the crevice on the eastern wall.
- Proposed category — 4B cat. diff., first ascent.
- Route length — 765 m. Length of sections with IV–V cat. diff. — 555 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 60°. Height difference — 470 m.
- Pitons hammered in: rock — 9, chocks — 58.
- Climbing hours — 12.
- Leader — Sergey G. Kritsuk — 1st sports category.
Route Description: с пер. Кара-Оюк
A description of the route to the top of Kara-Urok in Gorny Altai, including information on the difficulty and specifics of the ascent.