2. Area of ascent, ridge — Talasskiy ridge — Panj Talasskiy ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Manas, 4482 m N - E ridge
4. Assumed category of difficulty — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections R1–R5 category of difficulty, average steepness deg. — height difference 1060 m, avg. steepness 40°, length of sections: R1 category of difficulty — 900 m, R3 category of difficulty — 400 m, R2 category of difficulty — 50 m
6. Pitons for belaying to create artificial anchor points: window-type — 4 pcs, dube-type — 2 pcs, ice screws — none

Tapas­sky Ridge.

3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 2870 m, via the right counterfort of the northern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section R1–R5 cat. diff., average steepness in degrees, length of section R1–R5 cat. diff. by steepness in degrees: 30–35; 1000 m; R1 — 300 m, R2 — 300 m.
6. Pitons driven for protection to create artificial anchor points: Rock — 2 pcs. Ice — Bolt —
7. Number of climbing hours — 7–8 h

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Ascent area, range — Western Tian-Shan, Talassky range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Teke, 3870 m via the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated category difficulty — 2B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section 1–5, average steepness in degrees. 900 m, I–700 m, II–200 m, 35°.
6. Number of pitons used for belaying to create artificial holds: Rock — 6 Ice — 2 Bolt —

Zamok (3670) via the center of the North Ridge — 5A (rock)

Climbing Route Passport:

1. Western Tian Shan, Pskem Ridge, section №7.14 according to the 2013 classifier
2. Zamok peak (3670 m) via the center of the North Ridge (c. N. r.)
3. 5A category of difficulty
4. First ascent: Sergeev A. (1982)
5. Description compiled by: Shekhovtsov S., Makhmudov U., Mayorova L. (2013)

Route Description:

From the base camp on the moraine under Zamok peak, it takes 1 hour to reach the foot of the wall via scree or snow. Approach the wall, bypassing a massive red "rhombus" on the right, which is half the height of the wall. Above the "rhombus," a rock ridge is clearly visible, along which the route goes. Start of the route. Continue moving left and upwards along the wall via a system of scree inclined shelves, alternating with short, easy walls. — 400 m.

Ascent Log

1. Central Tian-Shan, Meridionalny Ridge, Bayankol valley, 7.17.06
2. Peak Marmor Wall (6350 m) via the right western counterfort of the Northwest ridge.
3. Category 5A, second ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 2650 m Route length: 4600 m Length of Category V sections — 930 m. Average slope
   • Main part of the route 40° (4100 m – 6100 m)

Report

On the First Ascent of Kremen Peak (4351 m)

via the Western Ridge, Category 4A

1. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing Area: Jamantau Ridge, Inner Tien Shan
2. Peak Name: Kremen (4351 m, N 40°54.604′, E 74°39.295′ (WGS 84))
3. Route Name: via the Western Ridge
4. Category of Difficulty: proposed 4A
5. Route Type: rock climbing
6. Route Elevation Gain: 540 m (GPS reading). Route Length: 700 m. Average Steepness: 51°. Climbing difficulty mainly III–IV, crux at the 2nd rope VI–/VI (UIAA)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Ascent area; ridge: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route characteristics: Belaya Shapka, 4666 m, via north-eastern ridge, combined
4. Proposed category: 2A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference 600 m;
   • length of sections with category 5–6 complexity — none;
   • average steepness 40°
6. Pitons used: none (rock outcrops were used)

ASCENT LOG 23

1. Type of ascent: rock climbing
2. Area of ascent: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge, Archa-Kanysh gorge
3. Peak, route: p. 4300, via the center of the Eastern wall (1st left)
4. Difficulty category: 5B / 2nd ascent /
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 750 m

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF KALKUSH FROM THE PASS "CHETYREKH" (FOUR) 2B cat. diff. The summit of Kalkush (photo from the summit of Skalnaya) Approach routes:

• From the Dugoba alpine camp, ascend up the left side (orographically) of the Dugoba river to the second confluence (confluence of the Ak-Tash and Dugoba rivers).
• Here are the overnight stays.
• The journey from the alpine camp to the overnight stays takes 2.5–3 hours. From the overnight stays, the path lies to the pass "4-kh". First, upwards in the direction of the Kalkush summit, then under the eastern slopes of the Kalkush summit to the last (along the path) buttress of the summit. The path lies along a good trail. Then, bypassing the buttress, we begin the ascent to the pass "4-kh". The path lies across the scree. The ascent to the pass from the overnight stays takes 2 hours 30 minutes.

Aktur Uzunkol — description of the 1B alpinist route from SK Greta

Route description: The trail to Ak pass begins from the first tributary flowing into the Myrdy river below the first bridge from the top on the right bank, and leads left along the trail upwards along steep grassy slopes in the direction of the Pyramida peak. After 1.5 hours, the slope becomes gentler, and the trail goes along small rocky-grassy terraces. 40 minutes later, on one of the terraces to the left of the trail, on a wonderful lawn thickly overgrown with grass, next to a crossing stream, there are good places for tents, no firewood. A couple of rocky-grassy ascents lead to the glacier flowing from under the Pyramida and Ak-bashi peaks. We ascend to the glacier to the right along the trail via small and medium talus and snowfields and enter a small glacial cirque north of the Ak-bashi peak, ending with a ridge of heavily destroyed rocks. A small depression in the ridge is the Ak pass. Orienting our movement towards the saddle of the pass, we cross the glacier and ascend to the pass via snow and then destroyed rocks. From the pass, we ascend to the peak via a snowy (at the end of summer — talus) slope. Descent is via the ascent route. Path chronometry:

• ascent to the tongue of the glacier — 3 hours;
• along the glacier to the pass — 1 hour;