Brief geographical and sporting characteristics of the area

The ULlu-TAU-CHANA massif is located in the main Caucasian ridge in the upper reaches of the ADYR-SU gorge. This area is frequently visited by climbers and is very well studied. From a sporting perspective, the ULlu-TAU massif is of great interest. Only from the north, 4 routes of 5B category difficulty have been laid. The routes on the northern walls are combined and quite extensive (≈ 1000 m). All routes laid from the north are characterized by steep ice sections of sufficient length. The route taken in the winter of 1965 lies between two well-known routes - the walls leading to the Central and Eastern peaks.

Description of the ascent

March 16. The duo CHERNOSLIVIN - KHERGIANI went to a bivouac located under the wall, with the aim of re-connaissance, so that in case of good weather and route conditions, they could start processing the route on the morning of March 17. (The remaining participants in the camp were finishing their training program). March 17. At 7:00, the rope team CHERNOSLIVIN - KHERGIANI started processing the route. MARGIANI, RUZHEVSKY, SOKOLOVSKY, POROKHNYA left the camp for the bivouac at 12:00. The approach to the bivouac (in winter) takes about 4 hours. (Deep snow, skis). Soon after the main group arrived at the bivouac, the duo returned from processing. They managed to process 90 m of ice and 30 m of steep rock ("island") during the day. See photo-diagram. So, 10 hours and 120 meters. The ice is steep (50°), very dense, movement is only possible with 12-tooth crampons. The island rocks are completely steep, requiring the use of advanced rock climbing techniques. March 18. The MARGIANI-RUZHEVSKY rope team started processing the route at 7:00 and worked until 16:00, processing the remaining, more complex part of the "island" and the lower slabby rocks. A total of 70 m. All work, except on the slabs, was done on a platform using piton hooks.

Moscow City Climbing Championship

In the High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

On ascending to the summit of Chegem (4351 m) via the route on the northeast wall of the northeast ridge (V. Forostyana) 6A category of complexity by the KAIS MEI team For the period from August 5, 2020, to August 7, 2020 Climbing and Mountaineering Club of Moscow Power Engineering Institute

I. Climbing Passport

Fig. 32

PEAK OF THE NATION 4.000

u­½­½­¯­² Was.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak — Bashkara (4241 m) via the N wall of the 3rd shoulder.
4. Difficulty category — 6A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • total length — 935 m.
   • wall section length — 400 m.
   • height difference — 741 m.
   • average steepness 53°.

в. Bakedux, 4270 m по В кф. сл. гре­бня, к 4Ак (сл. маршрут D. Ду­равско­го), 55

REPORT

on the first ascent of p. GERMOGENOVA via the North face tentatively Cat. diff. 3B protocol № 564 p. 4 dated October 28, 1986

Kogutai-Bashi 3821 m.

¹

35. Traverse of Elbrus massif with ascent to Kyukyurtly via South Wall couloir (I. Evseev's 4A category route). The path from Terskol village (group of 4–6 people) to Khotyutau pass is described in route 32. From Khotyutau pass — down scree, then along the trail to Ullukam River, cross the river to the right bank and ascend grassy slopes to the Western ridge adjoining the South-West walls of Kyukyurtly peak. Along scree, then via a simple but steep rocky snow-covered counterfort or to the right of it via a couloir (rockfall!) ascend to the Western ridge. From here, turn right and follow a simple wide ridge with minor ups and downs to reach beneath the South-West walls of