Passport

I class — snow-ice 2. Main Caucasian Range, Adyrsu river gorge 3. V. Ullutau via the north face of the eastern shoulder (D. Chernoslvin's route) — 4058 m. 4. Difficulty category — 5B. 5. Height difference 950 m, length — 1020 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 230 m. Average steepness of the ice part of the route 50°, rocky part — 65°. 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 62, chocks — 46, ice screws — 102. 7. Climbing hours — 16.5 hours. 8. Overnight stay — snow platform on the ridge. 9. Leader — Andryushkevich Konstantin Ivanovich, CMS. Participants — Panarin Nikolai Dmitrievich, CMS, Foigt Alexander Vadimovich, CMS, Chan-syan Anatoly Vladimirovich, CMS.

PASSPORT

1. Rock class.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Pik Zub Dragona, 2050 m, 3rd ridge.
4. Proposed 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 300 m, length 750 m, average slope 23°.
6. Pitons driven: chocks 7, pitons 0.
7. Climbing hours 4, days 1.

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus
3. Ushba South summit 4710 m via the center of the SW wall through the "Stolb" on Golubev's route.
4. Category 5B, 2nd ascent of the "Golden" route of 1981.
5. Elevation gain: 1460 m, length 2005 m. Length of sections with category 5–6 difficulty: 1030 m. Average steepness of main sections is 72° (3490–4630 m). Of these, category 6 sections: 855 m - (3520–4110 m) 575 m at 80–81°; (4182–4400 m) 145 m at 68°; (4470–4630 m) 135 m at 80°.
6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: | | 134 | 0 | 144 | 10 |

USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1981. TECHNICAL CLIMB CLASS

Central Caucasus 196a

Report

On the ascent of the Sports Committee team of the Ministry of Defense of the USSR to the SOUTHERN USHBA peak via the edge of the Western wall through the "pillar".

Brief overview of the ascent object and route

Many routes have been laid out to the peaks of the Ushba, about twenty of which have received prizes at the USSR Championships. Two 6th category routes pass along the bastions of the Western wall of the Southern peak. At the junction of the Western and South-Western walls of the second rock belt, a sheer 700-meter granite "pillar" rises. To the left, the "pillar" is bypassed by a giant internal angle of the Western wall, along which Myshlyaev—Kosmahev laid out a fine route. To the right, along the South-Western wall, a route by V. Monogarov's group goes upwards to the right, also marked with gold medals at the USSR Championship. The routes are symmetrically positioned relative to the vertical axis of the "pillar". (Along the axis, a large crevice - a chimney - runs from the top). The upper 2/3 of the "pillar" between the internal angle of Myshlyaev on the left and the visual mid-axis overhang with a convex relief "fresco". This is the protrusion of a huge monolithic slab (400–450 m long), intersected by two transverse tiers of cornices. Along the right edge of this slab, 20–30 m from the mid-axis, a route was laid out in 1981. To the foot of the "pillar", the route coincides with the route of L. Myshlyaev and V. Monogarov (300 m of the ridge). Further, 560 new meters were passed along the sheer wall. On the rocks above the "pillar", the route coincides with L. Myshlyaev's route. Further, the route goes to the bastion "knife" with a variant to the left of L. Myshlyaev's route.

1. Climbing category Mechanical (92)
2. Climbing area Central Caucasus
3. Climbing route with indication Ushba South peak and their heights via the western wall 4710 m.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1690 m (without icefall), average steepness 67°, route length 1931 m (without icefall), length of difficult sections more than 300 m.
5. Pitons hammered in: rock 277, ice 51, bolt 24
6. Number of climbing hours 74.5 h
7. Number of nights and their characteristics: 8 of them: normal in a tent 2, sitting in a suspended tent 5, sleepless in hammocks 1

ASCENT DOCUMENT.

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus.
3. Object of ascent — Ushba South peak (4710 m) via the right part of the SW wall (Kustovsky route) 6B category of complexity.
4. Height difference of the wall section — 580 m. Total height difference — 1460 m.
5. Total route length — 1897.5 m, including sections of 5–6 category of complexity — 835.5 m.
6. Average steepness of the route — 68°, including the wall section — 80°.
7. Pitons hammered: | rock | ice | bolt | chocks |

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Central Caucasus
3. Ushba South peak 4710 m via the right part of the 103 wall (Kustovsky's route 7)
4. Category of difficulty — 5B
5. Height difference — 1450 m, length — 2170 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 700 m. Average steepness of the route — 56°. Average steepness of the main sections — 80°
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |

PASSPORT

1. Technical Grade
2. Central Caucasus
3. v. Chatyn (Main) via the "diamond" on the north wall (Myshlyaev's route)
4. 6A category of difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 800 m, length — 1000 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 450 m, of which 6 category of difficulty — 270 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice screws | | :---: | :----: | :---: | :------: | | 37+10^ | 24^ | 67 | 23 |

Report on the First Ascent by the Team of the Multidisciplinary Climbing Club "FRILINE" from Essentuki

To the summit of Khazni-Bashi

via the south ridge and southwest wall Presumably 4B category of difficulty Team Leader: Popov Mikhail Lvovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2019 Addresses: 357600, Stavropol Krai, Essentuki, Oktyabrskaya St., 434, apt. 59, Popov M.L. 8 928 265-71-30 mikl_popov@inbox.ru

Ascent Log (Second Ascent)

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Caucasus.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Chatyn Glavny, 4368 m, via the diamond on the North face (Grakovich).
4. Proposed category difficulty — 6B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1000 m
   • average steepness — 75°
   • length of sections: 2 — none, 3 — none, 4–5 — 450 m, 6 — 550 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belay, for creating RPE.