143. Bashkara via the South Ridge of the South Shoulder (K. Tumanov's route, category 3A). The path from the “Jantugan” alplager (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac at the Jantugan Pass is described in route 146. From the pass, exit onto the Jantugan Plateau and move down along its right side. Bypass the glacier's icefall from the right, then descend along the moraine under the slopes of Lekzyr-Jantugan Peak onto the Lekzyr Glacier at the confluence of its Western and Eastern branches. Ascend along the flat surface on the right side of the Western branch, bypassing the Bashkara Gadyl massif from the south, until reaching the point where the Unnamed Glacier's icefall (which descends from a small cirque formed by Ullukara

142. Bashkara via North-Eastern Ridge (E. Ivanov's route, cat. 3B) The path from the Djantugan alpbase (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the Djantugan pass is described in route 146. From the pass, depart (at 3:00-4:00 am) to the Djantugan plateau. Traverse around the Djantugan peak from the left and exit to the North-Eastern ridge of Bashkara below the last (left) gentle snowy slope descending from the ridge saddle, which connects the Bashkara peak on the left and the Djantugan peak on the right. Turn right from the plateau and, having overcome the bergschrund, ascend directly up the gentle snowy, then scree slope. Further, ascend via easy, broken rocks, leaving the gendarme-connectors on the right, to the rocks of the North-Eastern ridge of Bashkara. 1-1.5 hours from the bivouac. When exiting onto the ridge, bypass the gendarme-connector on the left via easy, broken rocks (belay!). From the exit point to the ridge, turn left and move 50-60 m up via easy, broken rocks on the left side of the ridge, then across a short snowy connector below the rock ascent wall. Ascend 30 meters straight up the wall of medium difficulty to a ledge and traverse 10 m left along it. From there, ascend up-right 20-25 m via rocks of medium difficulty, then via easier and more broken rocks to the ridge (pitons for belay on the ascent wall!).

Bashkara — Gadyl traverse, cat. 4A, K. Agger route, I4

From the "Green Hotel" we move along the Jankuat glacier in the direction of the Jantugan plateau and the pass located between the Aristov rocks and the ridge of the Jantugan peak. By-passing the bergschrund on the left, we reach the Jantugan plateau. From the bivouac site, the path to the peak goes southwest across the plateau in the direction of the N-E ridge of Bashkara. At the last slope descending from this ridge (further up, a sheer wall of the Bashkara massif rises), they cross the bergschrund and go along the talus with rocks protruding from it. The "gendarme" is bypassed on the left along easy rocks. Having reached the ridge, you need to pass a small snow bridge that leads directly to the rather steep rocks of the ridge leading to the summit. Without reaching the ridge itself, but sticking to its left side, you need to overcome a number of crevices and chimneys along fairly strong rocks (pitch). Having passed this first stage, they overcome the second, easier belt of rocks, sticking to the left side of the ridge all the way to the summit. The tower encountered on the way is bypassed on the left. Above it lies a small snowpatch, which must be crossed near the rocks. Having gone 20 meters, they turn onto the rocks and reach a small depression that separates the Bashkara peak into two parts:

• The first part is the northern one, which is the highest point of the peak.
• From the lowest point of the peak - the southern one - the ridge goes to the Gadyl peak. The ascent from the bivouac on the Jantugan plateau to the summit takes 9-10 hours. From the Bashkara summit, the path goes to the left along the ridge in the direction of the Gadyl peak. There are a large number of "gendarmeries" on the ridge:
• The 1st is taken head-on,
• The 2nd is bypassed on the right.

120. Bzhedug via the Southeast Ridge (Category II route) The path from the Djantugan alp camp to the "Ryzhie" ("Red") Rocks at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash Glacier is described in Route 118. From the sites near the "Ryzhie" Rocks (without backpacks), descend to the right onto the Kashkatash Glacier and ascend on its left side (beware of crevasses!). The icefall is bypassed on the left under the slopes of Ullukara Peak (stonefall and icefall are possible from Ullukara!). After the icefall, move to the right onto the upper snow plateau of the Kashkatash Glacier. Move up the plateau - to the right under the col of the ridge between Bzhedug Peak on the right and Volnaya Ispaniya (Free Spain) Peak on the left. From the sites near the "Ryzhie" Rocks on the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash Glacier - 1.5-2 hours. From the upper plateau of the glacier, ascend the steep, partially rugged snow-ice slope, keeping to the slopes of Volnaya Ispaniya Peak (avalanches and icefall are possible from Bzhedug!). It is better to bypass the crevasses on the slope on the left. A large crevasse crossing almost the entire slope not far from the col should be overcome via a snow bridge or bypassed on the right. After the crevasse - up the steep snow slope and a small ice-snow ascent to the narrow snow ridge of the col (beware of cornices!). From the sites near the "Ryzhie" Rocks on the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash Glacier - 4-5 hours. At the col, turn to the right and ascend the snowy Southeast Ridge of Bzhedug Peak, which gradually turns into a snow slope. Further:

• along the scree ridge - slope,
• along the gently sloping snow ridge - ascent to the summit of Bzhedug. From the col - 1-2 hours. Descent is via the ascent route. To the Djantugan alp camp - 4-5 hours. Duration of the route - 2 days. Special equipment for 4 people:
• main rope - 2 × 30 m,

в. Бжедух, 4270 m, via North ridge, lс, 3Б cat. sl., L. Distel's route, R0. From Джантуган ASB we ascend to overnight stays below the "Red rocks". From the overnight stays we exit via the Кашка — Таш glacier in the direction of the big couloir of the north ridge of в. Бжедух. We ascend via snow in the couloir to the upper part of the rocky island. Traversing the destroyed rocks upwards to the right, we exit to the boundary of rocks and snow. In the upper part of the ridge we circumvent small rocky walls with a traverse to the left — upwards to the ridge (from overnight stays 90–120 min). On the ridge we move along the scree towards в. Бжедух. Having passed the wide part of the ridge along the screes to the rocky section rising towards the summit, we traverse 100–120 m. The descent from the ridge down to the Бжедух glacier is not difficult (from the start of the ridge to the descent to the glacier — 60–75 min). About an hour is needed to walk along the glacier to the snowy ridge, bypassing the gendarmes on the right. Further, the path goes along a snowy-icy ascent:

• At the end — an icy ascent.
• Move on front points with insurance via ice screws.
• In the upper part, icy overhangs loom.
• Pass the entire snowy ridge to the left of these overhangs (4–5 hours).

V. Blud­ukh, 4270 m, via NW wall, cat. dif. 4A, A. Ro­ma­nov's route, 56 From the “Shkhelda” AU Base Camp, follow the right side of the Shkhelda gorge down to the Shkhelda glacier. Immediately after reaching the glacier, cross it in the direction of the stream descending from the Bzhe­dukh glacier, and follow its right side. Then, ascend steep grassy slopes to reach the right-bank moraine (relative to the direction of travel) of the Bzhedukh glacier. From the moraine, approach the rocky ridge in the right part of the Bzhedukh glacier and ascend it in its middle section via wide ledges. Follow the ridge to the right, towards its highest point. Set up a bivouac here. 5–6 hours from the “Shkhelda” AU Base Camp.

76. bivouac on the Southwest Ridge (route 2B cat. difficulty, I. Daibog, P. Karyev, V. Nikolsky, August 28, 1939). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp along the Shkhelda and Aksu glaciers to the snow plateau of the upper cirque of the left branch of the Aksu glacier with the initial bivouac on "Aristov's Overnight Stay" or on the Northeast Ridge of the Aksu peak is described in route 72. Up the plateau - to the left - exit under the saddle of the ridge - Bivouachny pass, located between the peaks of Bivouachny peak on the left and Fizkulturnik on the right. From the plateau, overcoming the bergschrund, straight up the steep snowy slope (avalanches!) ascent to the Bivouachny pass. Bivouac on the pass. From "Aristov's Overnight Stay" 6–7 hours. On the pass, turn left and exit under the rock wall of Bivouachny peak. Along the edge of ice and rocks, traverse 40–50 m under the wall to the left, exit to the rocky-snowy Western counterforce. Further, with a 5–8-meter traverse under the overhanging wall (pitons insurance!) move to the left side of the counterforce. Along the steep snow-covered, with ice sections, rocks of medium difficulty on the left side of the counterforce (pitons insurance!) 80–100-meter ascent to Bivouachny peak. From Bivouachny pass 1.5–2 hours. Descent via the ascent route. Duration of the route 2 days. It is necessary to have 2–3 ice screws and crampons for all participants. ("Baksan Valley", A. F. Naumov)

158. Viatau via the South Couloir and West Ridge (Category I-b route, Fig. 23, 33).

The path from the “Jantugan” alpine camp to the “Green Hotel” is described in route 146. From the “Green Hotel”, ascend along the Adylsu gorge, then reach the Jankuat Glacier and move up along it, keeping to its left side. After 350–400 m, turn left and ascend to the left-bank moraine at its lowest point. Continue ascending along the moraine. Having passed the foot of the West Ridge of Viatau Peak, turn left, descend from the moraine, and ascend along the southern slopes of the West Ridge. Initially, the slope is grassy, then it becomes covered with fine and later coarse scree, leading to a wide snowy scree-filled couloir descending south from the West Ridge of Viatau Peak. Here, turn left and ascend along the snowy scree and simple rocks of the wide snowy couloir until you reach the West Ridge of the peak. From here:

• Continue to the right along the simple, destroyed, and partially snowy rocks of the ridge.
• In the upper section, keep to the right side (“live” rocks!).
• Ascend to the summit of Viatau. From the “Green Hotel”, the ascent takes 5–6 hours. Descend via the ascent route. The total duration of the route is 2 days.

Via-tau 2A category via the North ridge

Ascent from the Kod-avgan-aush glacier pass with descent via the ascent route or Category 1B route. Day 1. From the Dmantugan alpine camp, follow the trail along the Adylsu river to the Zelyonaya gostinitsa (Green Inn). Follow the lateral moraine to the Dmankuat glacier, crossing it in the lower part from right to left. Ascend to the right-bank moraine, which has pockets with flat areas and water. Overnight stay. Day 2. From the overnight stay, ascend via the grassy slope and talus to the Kod-avgan-aush glacier, where there are also flat areas on the talus for overnight stays. Via the clay talus, which may be snow-covered at the beginning of summer, ascend to the Kodavvaganaush Lozn pass. The actual pass remains on the left on the ridge. From the false pass, move right along the ridge. After two elevations, the ridge begins to rise. The rock character is slabby (peg страховка). Continue along the несложному ridge to the summit. Descent from the summit via the ascent route or via the Category 1B route. On the Irne-Ivle ridge, there are large cornices and overhanging rocks, making the ascent very challenging. The ridge ascent at this time is done on the left via the rocks (via подкам), where there are many loose stones.