109. Songuty via the East Face, cat. 4B (Durnov, 1950)

From the Volga River overnight bivouac area, head towards the central couloir that leads to routes 5A and 5Б. (“Attention!” The couloir is not visible from the overnight bivouac area, and for visual reconnaissance, one needs to move to the left part of the upper plateau of Uilpatinsky bottom), move along the right part of the couloir to the rock island, from which turn left onto a ledge leading to a counterfort. 10 m up the несложным ledges of the counterfort to a snowy ridge 10–15 m long. From it, turn left along the ledges and walls under the black streaks forming a zigzag, clearly visible from below, to the next counterfort of the central ridge. Move up the rocks of the counterfort to a snowy saddle, from which a snowy couloir goes left and down. After the saddle, a short wall leads to a large ledge crossing the East Face of Songuty. Along the ledge 150–200 m to the right to a counterfort leading to the 10th tower. Move along the rocks on the left side of the counterfort; in the upper part of the rocks, a 20-meter internal corner leads to a snowy slope (20–30 m), approaching the 10th tower. One can avoid going to the tower and instead move right along a grassy section to the saddle between the 10th tower and the summit. On the saddle, there is a platform for a tent. From the saddle to the summit, it's 80–100 m along the ridge of cat. II–III complexity, with overcoming the “pog” — a smooth 5-meter rock ascent and ridge. On the “nose” of the “pog,” a piton is hammered for passage and belay.

UILPATA

Southwestern ridge Sonnguti pass 110 ㅍ North ridge-slope Northwestern edge Ukhalpatinsky pass 103.12

SOUTH-WEST NORTH RIDGE - SLOPE SONGUTI I NORTH-WEST EDGE EAST BRANCH OF KARAUGOM PLATEAU

5. V. ULARG VIA NORTH-WEST COUNTERFORCE, 5A cat. diff.

ONIANI PEAK WEST RIDGE ARTSYSHHEVSKOGO PEAK ULARG NORTH EDGE II Ridge I Ridge NORTH-WEST COUNTERFORCE

Description of the route to the summit of Tsey-Loam via the SW wall (Trikozov's route), 4A category of difficulty 2.9.54 according to KMGV

Trikozov's route on Tsey-Loam peak in the Dzheyrakh district of Ingushetia is an interesting, moderately complex and technical line. In the first ascenders' report, the category of difficulty is indicated as 3A, while in the FAR classifier, it is listed as 4A category of difficulty. The name "via the NW wall" is a typo; the route actually follows the SW wall. The route is more challenging than the route through a series of chimneys on the right part of the SE wall on Zub peak, 4A category of difficulty, but easier than Donskov's route on the left edge of the SW ridge on Koazoy-Loam peak, 4B category of difficulty. The route is not recommended as a first independent 4A climb: it involves pendulum moves, diagonal belays, and artificial climbing techniques (ITC), and requires navigation skills on the approach and the route. Descending via the ascent route is complicated due to numerous diagonal sections. The approach to the route starts along the grassy slopes immediately behind the Kyazi tourist center in the direction of the SW wall of Tsey-Loam peak (photo 1). The jagged peaks are bypassed on the left via grassy ledges. The route's landmark is the couloir running along the SW wall and a massive plug at its beginning (photo 3). Photo 1. Approach from Kyazi tourist center. Internet photograph R0–R1: A 10 m wall of easy climbing, bypassing the plug in the couloir, followed by 600 m along the couloir. Scree, "ram's foreheads," and hard firn at the beginning of May. The simple terrain leads out to the right from the couloir onto the R1 ridge between the wall and the rocky ridge (photo 4). The main couloir continues upwards (photo 5). R1–R2: 60 m upwards of easy climbing.

Since many get lost on the route, I decided to write an addition to the description. The ledge on which "many" get lost, after R6, is misleading due to the description: according to it, the section R6–R7 is 60 m long, but in reality it's no more than 30 m. R6–R8 There's a belay station near a juniper bush, from it go left along the wall, as soon as it ends:

• go 8–10 m
• climb up the grassy ledges to the wall, also about 10 m From this point, on the right, you can see a flake:
• go under it
• 8 m up on it
• then immediately left, or right around the bend On the right, around the bend, there's an inner corner with grassy tufts/ledges, the walls are smooth.

Ai-Petri (Main Summit) via the South Ridge, cat. 2a

From the Yalta–Sevastopol road (9th kilometer), follow the forest road to the Hostа-Bash clearing for 30–40 minutes. Ascend to the main couloir of the Ai-Petri massif from the Hostа-Bash clearing via the high riverbed. The route begins to the right of the main couloir and continues left and upwards along an inclined ledge to the start of the ridge. Then:

• Traverse 160 m across large slabs to the beginning of a counterfort,
• Ascend the counterfort, which leads to the south ridge. The route then follows the rocky south ridge (moderate difficulty) towards the summit tower. Bypassing the encountered gendarmes, ascend a couloir to a col between the pinnacles and the summit tower. From the col, ascend the moderate difficulty rocks to the summit. The route is 800 m long:
• easy rocks — 600 m,
• moderate difficulty rocks — 180–200 m. The ascent takes 4 hours.

58. Triangle — Khimik

(combined route by D. Sukhodolsky, category 3B, fig. 5, 6). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the old right-bank moraine of the Azot glacier is described in route 52. From the moraine, turn right and ascend via scree and easy, broken rocks of the couloir to the saddle of the Western ridge of Triangle peak. From the alpine camp, 2.5-3 hours. On the saddle, turn left and ascend 80-100 m via easy rocks of the Western ridge to below a rock wall. From under the wall, traverse several gendarmes via easy, straightforward rocks and scree on the right side of the Western ridge, and then traverse (with belay) across the ice-snow slope to below a rock tower. Traverse the tower along the boundary between the ice-snow slope and rocks, and then ascend to a col below the summit spire. From the col, ascend via steep, straightforward monolithic rocks of the Western ridge's spire to the summit of Triangle.

• From the right-bank moraine: 3-4 hours
• From Ullutau alpine camp: 6-7 hours From Triangle summit, descend via easy rocks of the Eastern ridge to a saddle. Then, traverse along the ice-snow slope on the left side of the wide, gendarme-studded ridge of the long saddle to below a large gendarme, Rock. Traverse the gendarme to the right (with belay), ascending behind it to the ridge, and then follow the straightforward ridge, passing low gendarmes head-on, to below the Trapezium gendarme. Ascend the Trapezium via steep, moderately difficult rocks (with piton belay) of the ridge. From Trapezium, descend via moderately difficult rocks of the ridge to a saddle, and then traverse along the saddle, passing the Small gendarme head-on (with belay), to below the summit tower of Moskovsky Komsomolets. From here, ascend via steep slabs and moderately difficult rocks of the Western ridge (with piton belay) to the summit of Moskovsky Komsomolets. From Triangle, 4-5 hours.

Nerusskaya

NORTH — EAST SOUTH — WEST Fig. 44. Nerussky spur