4.2.26

4.2. Pamir, Vanch Range, Peak Khrustalny, 5231 m, North Face

Alpinism Club "Donbass"

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class
2. Ascent area: South-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin Range
3. Peak, its height, and route: p. Medovy. South. route. 3А
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3А, 26
5. Route characteristics
   • height difference: 400 m
   • average steepness: 50–70°
   • length of sections
6. Pitons driven

For the USSR Championship in mountaineering.

Report

On the ascent of Peak Tajikistan via the North-East face (category of high-altitude and technical ascents). Team captain: Honored Master of Sports of the USSR Mal'tsev V.F. Team coach: Honored coach of the RSFSR, Master of Sports of the USSR Markov V.G. Senior coach of the gathering, deputy captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Solov'ev G.S. Team composition:

• Captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Mal'tsev V.F.
• Deputy captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Solov'ev G.S.

Protocol № 339 dated 12.09.1971 5B first ascent VT-6 111 Report of the team from the Novosibirsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports on the ascent of Peak "40th Anniversary of LKSМУ"

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Shugnan Range
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — northwest spur of GondoRак West (5100) via counterfort of the N wall
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B (2nd ascent)
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1100 m
   • average slope — 55°
   • length of sections:
     • III — 780 m

Ascent Log

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Krylya Sovetov peak, 3341 m, via the North ridge.
3. Proposed 2A cat. dif., first ascent.
4. Route character — combined.
5. Height difference 350 m, length 640 m, average slope 35°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 2 pcs.
7. Team's travel time — 4 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group: Taran N. S. CMS, Afanasyev A. E. CMS.

Report

On the first ascent

The peak Bronenosets (2430 m) - Right part of the Western wall - Route 3B cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent - Eastern Sayan, Tunskinskie Goltsy ridge, Dождевое valley, 6.1.2 Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:

• Anisovets S.Yu.
• Valiev V.O.
• Vasin I.K.
• Marzaev A.Yu.
• Tsynguev B.Ts.

Route Description

From the Mynzhilki weather station, ascend to Alpingrad. The traverse begins with peak Amangeldy 1B from the West (see description of Amangeldy 1B from the West). After the summit, descend in the eastern direction towards Pionerisky Pass via the 2B category route. From Pionerisky Pass, ascend to peak Pioner via the 1B category route. Then move south towards the summit of Uchitel (see description of the traverse Uchitel - Pioner 3A). From the summit of Uchitel, descend east via the 2A category route to peak Uchitel until the Heroes of Panfilov Pass. Ascend to peak Heroes of Panfilov via the 2B category route along the western ridge (see description). Descend towards Mametova Pass. From Mametova Pass, follow the route to Manshuk Mametova via the northern ridge 3B category until the summit (see description). Descend via the 2A category route from the M. Mametova glacier. Then descend to Alpengrad. Completed by a group led by T. Lebedev in 1999.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants - 6-8 people.
2. Initial bivouac - Alpengrad.

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Northern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge.
3. Peaks — Mayakovsky Peak (4208 m), Ordzhonikidze Peak (4410 m), Partizan Peak (4390 m), Tuyuksu Spires (4218 m), Tuyuksu Peak (4218 m), route — traverse of 5 peaks.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A in winter
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 900 m.
   • average steepness — 45°
   • length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 95 m.
6. Pitons hammered:

Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

• via a log across the Khokel river
• further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak Ascent:
• up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
• then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks