Ascent Passport
- Ascent class
- Ascent area: South-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin Range
- Peak, its height, and route: p. Medovy. South. route. 3А
- Estimated difficulty category: 3А, 26
- Route characteristics
- height difference: 400 m
- average steepness: 50–70°
- length of sections
- Pitons driven
- for belay: rock – 10, ice – (none)
- for creating ITO: 2
- Number of climbing hours: 7
- Number and characteristics of overnight stays: no overnight stays
- Full name of the leader and participants, their sports qualification
- Zybin A.N. – leader, 2nd sports category
- Klimashin V.V. – participant, 1st sports category
- Hankevich A.G. – 1st sports category
- Shibanov A.V. – 2nd sports category
- Tinin Yu.P. – 1st sports category
- Team coach
- Date of departure and return
The ascent was made by the MGS DSO "Spartak" group under the leadership of Zybin A.N.
Ascent Area
p. Medovy is located in the north-western spur of the Vakhdarinsky Range, branching off from p. Shukshin (area of p. P. Luknitsky). The middle part of the p. Medovy massif and all southern slopes have a rocky structure, without snow cover; in some areas, the rocks are covered with ice. In the lower and middle parts, the southern slopes are strongly destroyed rocks, alternating with small ledges. In the upper part of the massif, the rocks are covered with snow. The height of the peak is approximately 5 meters.
Route Description
R1. The beginning of the route is to the right of the southern ridge. Ascend along the talus ledges and destroyed rocks to a clearly defined rectangular gap. Exit onto a snowfield above the reddish rock with a protruding "nose" (20 min, 120 m). R2. The first sentinel rock is bypassed on the right. Along the talus ledges to the second sentinel rock. Control cairn (60–80 m). R3. Two walls, 8 m each (70–75%). Difficult section. Piton belay. To the right and left, there is a high risk of rockfall. The destroyed ridge (120 m) leads to a steep rocky ascent. R4. Ascend along the left part (40 m). The second rocky ascent (left, piton belay). R5. Severely destroyed wall (8 m), piton belay. The third rocky ascent (right, 40 m). Inclined tower (30 m). R6. Along the steep ridge (rocks and snow, piton belay) — exit to the right, onto the snowy ridge leading to the summit. Along the ridge (160 m, cornice!) to the summit. R7. Descend along the snowy ridge to the second depression. Then down the couloir and ledges to the left-down to the "Spartak" campsite.
The group took 7 hours to complete the route. Rock pitons were driven on the route. The nature of the rocks allowed for reliable belaying through outcrops. The group evaluates this route as category 3А.
Group Composition
Zybin A.N. – leader, 2nd sports category Klimashin V.V. – participant, 1st sports category Shibanov A.V. – 2nd sports category Hankevich A.G. – 1st sports category Tinin Yu.P. – 1st sports category
Group Equipment
Main rope – 2/40 m Rock pitons – 15 pcs. Rappel rope – 5 m Rock hammers – 2 pcs. Vibram boots – 3 pairs Otricon boots – 2 pairs
The participants and the ascent leader had experience of climbing routes in previous seasons:
- Sakharnaya – 5А
- Dutandon – 5А
- Zhinatar – 4Б
- p. Krasnye Zori – 3Б
- Blok – 3Б
- White Barс – 4А
- Piramida – 3Б
- Kirpich – 3А
Route Photoscheme
ascent to p. Medovy — ascent path — descent path
| designation | average steepness | length | Terrain character | difficulty | condition | weather cond. | pitons (rock) | pitons (ice) | pitons (bolted) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R1 | 40° | 120 m | ledges and ridge | medium | destroyed | clear | – | – | – |
| R2 | 45° | 60–80 m | – " – | medium | – " – | – " – | – | – | – |
| R3 | 60° | 140 m | – " – | difficult | – " – | – " – | 4 | – | – |
| R4 | 60° | 40 m | – " – | – " – | – " – | – " – | 2 | – | – |
| R5 | 55° | 80 m | – " – | – " – | – " – | – " – | 3 | – | – |
| R6 | 45° | 200 m | – " – | medium | rocks, snow | – " – | 3 | – | – |
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