Nogkau

Nogkau (4020 m) is a solitary rocky tower rising not far from the end of the long North ridge — a spur of the Burjula peak. Nogkau was conquered:

• On August 3, 1935 — by Poles Bernadzikiewicz, Wojnis, and Chwascinski;
• On August 19, 1937 — by A. Uvarov, M. Ivanov, V. Lebedev, and A. Mostinsky.

141. Nogkau from the North-East (the route is combined, category 2A, Fig. 20, 30). The path from the KSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (a group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac on the plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau under the Nogkau peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, approach the North ridge of the Nogkau peak across the snowy plateau (closed crevices) and slope. Overcoming the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the snowy, then the scree slope, and simple destroyed rocks to the North ridge to the right of the Nogkau rocky tower. Here, turn left and approach the summit tower via simple rocks of the North ridge. Bypass the tower on the right across simple rocks and ledges (with insurance). Then, ascend to the summit of Nogkau via heavily destroyed rocks of the steep inner corner — a couloir (with insurance). From the initial bivouac:

93. PLIEVA via the Northwest Ridge (combined route, 4A category of difficulty) From the starting point in the Tsey district, head towards "Zelyonyy kholm" moraine of the Skaazsky glacier and further to the glacier plateau under the Lagaukhokh cliffs.

Malaya Songuti

The Malaya Songuti peak (3800 m) is located in the eastern part of the Tsey range between the Pik Burevestnik - Tseysky peak to the east and the Tsey peak to the west. From the southern side:

• The rock walls of Malaya Songuti are heavily destroyed
• The walls are dissected by deep, narrow couloirs
• Rockfalls often occur towards the Tsey gorge From the northern side:
• The rock towers of Malaya Songuti rise beautifully above the Maly Songuti glacier
• The Maly Songuti glacier feeds the Turye lake

157. Songuti Malaya via the Western ridge, 4A cat. difficulty (A. Durnov, A. Zolotarev, Z. Kritskaya, S. Makarova, A. Turchin, August 15, 1952, during a traverse from west to east).

Fig. 32 143. Ularg (4358 m) via the East Ridge (combined route by Mitchell, category III, Fig. 32). The path from the Tsейsky District base camp (group of 4–8 people) to the Artsyshevsky Peak with the initial bivouac at the Volginsky bivouac is described in route 142. From the Artsyshevsky Peak, descend along the snowy slope of the East Ridge (cornices) to under the Kvadratny Dzhandarm. Bypass the dzhandarm on the left along the destroyed, crumbly rocks. Behind it, exit into the couloir onto the col under the II dzhandarm and bypass it on the right with a traverse (20°) and along the snowy slope (with belay). Further along the sharp snowy ridge (cornices), approach the dzhandarm "Vilka", pass it in the center through the fork, and descend to the col of the East Ridge. From the col, ascend 100–120 m upwards along the narrow, sometimes steep snowy East Ridge or along its left side (cornices — piton belay). Along the heavily destroyed, simple, sometimes snow-covered rocks of the East Ridge or its left side, ascend to the summit of Ularg. From the Volginsky bivouac, it takes 5–6 hours. Descend via the ascent route. The duration of the route is 3 days.

Fig. 27 112. Peak TsDSA (4477 m) via North Ridge (route is combined, cat. 2B, fig. 27). The path from the CSP of Tsey area or from the village Dzhinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the saddle of Uilpatinsky Pass with initial bivouacs on the platforms of the Western Ridge of Bivouachnaya Peak or in the hut of the Southern branch of Tsey Glacier is described in the routes:

• 83
• 103

156. Tsey (4140 m) via the Northeast slope (snow-ice route, category 1B difficulty level, fig. 33). From the Tsey district's KSP (group of 4–20 people), head down to the highway and follow it down the Tsey gorge. Before the last turn towards the village of Verkhny Tsey, turn left off the highway. Then:

• Follow the path along the stream in the hollow
• Then along the ridge of the grassy moraine past the cemetery
• Ascend to the grassy areas — the initial bivouac site for ascending Sadon and Spartak-Tsey peaks. From the areas, ascend along the path on the grassy, then scree ridge of the counterfort. Continue moving up along the scree, then along simple, broken (with protection) rocks of the counterfort to the Eastern ridge of Sadon peak. Here, turn left and follow the simple, gentle, heavily broken rocks of the Eastern ridge to reach the summit of Sadon. From Tsey district's KSP, 4–6 hours. Descend from Sadon peak along the snowy slope on the right side of the Tsey ridge to the saddle connecting Sadon with Spartak-Tsey peak, then left to a small snowy plateau. Cross the plateau down to the right and along the right side of the snowy slope, exit to a wide rock shelf on the left side of the ridge connecting Sadon and Nameless peaks, located on the North ridge — a spur of Sadon. Follow the shelf under Nameless peak to reach a large scree. Here, turn left and descend along the scree to a small, unnamed cirque glacier. From here, move left and down. Bypassing the base of the Western ridge of Burevestnik-Tsey peak under the rock walls, ascend behind it along the scree left and up to the areas near Turye Lake. Route:
• Descend along the snowy slope on the right side of the Tsey ridge to the saddle between Sadon and Spartak-Tsey
• Move left to a small snowy plateau

Ascent via the Southeast Buttress and South Ridge

(combined route, category 4B difficulty) From the tourist base in the Tsey district, reach the upper branch of the Tsey Glacier under the saddle ridge between Mamison and Chanchakhi peaks. Traverse the glacier (closed crevasses) to approach the left side of the ridge connecting Mami-son and Chanchakhi peaks, col. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund and ascend the steep snow-ice slope to the rocks of the counterfort descending from the left side. Then, keeping to the right side of the counterfort rocks (possible rockfall), ascend a steep snow-ice slope (ice axe and insurance) to the Tsey-Chanchakhi col (cornice). On the col, traverse 60–80 m to the right, then ascend the broad, steep southeast slope of Chanchakhi peak under numerous outcrops (possible rockfall and avalanches — R factor). Traverse left and up towards the rocks of the Southeast Buttress of the South Ridge of Chanchakhi. Overcome a glacial crevasse and ascend the steep ice slope (possible rockfall — piton insurance) to the rocks on the right side of the buttress. Further, on simple and moderately difficult broken rocks, with a 25-meter wall of average difficulty above, ascend in the middle part of the Southeast Buttress to the South Ridge. Do not descend; turn right instead. On the steep snow-ice South Ridge (ice axe and insurance), then on moderately difficult rocks and finally on a corner-chimney (loose rocks — piton insurance), overcome a wall. Further, on steep 50-meter rocks of average difficulty and then on simple rocks of the South Ridge, reach the summit of Chanchakhi. From the last bivouac on the plateau to the summit takes R2–R3 hours. Bivouac on the summit is possible. Descent is via the South Ridge. The total duration of the route is 3–4 days.

Shulgin Peak

The low rock tower of Shulgin Peak (3648 m) is located in the Kalper Range between Vil'sa Peak in the south and (beyond the Kalper pass) the Kalper Peak in the northeast. There is only one combined route to the peak — from the Kalper pass. 214. Shulgin Peak via the Northeast ridge (combined route, category 2A, fig. 41, 42). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4–20 people) to the initial bivouac on the saddle of the Kalper pass is described in route 211. On the Kalper pass, turn right (when ascending from the Tsey valley) and ascend traversing along the right or left side of the Northeast ridge of Shulgin Peak. Then, via a short snowy rock

Report

on the first ascent to the summit of Barzuikhox, from the South, 1B category of complexity, by a joint team of AK "Kaskad" and KAT "Fatum" on August 30, 2023

I. Ascent Passport

82. Va­khushti via East Ridge (combined route, cat. 2A, fig. 5, 18).

From the starting bivouac on the upper plateau of Koruldashi Glacier (point 72) ascend a simple destroyed rocky slope to reach the first pinnacle of Vakhushti's East Ridge and traverse it on the left (belay) 20 m along the snow-rock boundary. Then ascend simple rocks of the East Ridge. Pinnacles:

• traverse the second sharp pinnacle on the right along the ledges;
• traverse the third pinnacle on the right along the ledges. Further, ascend the heavily destroyed, partly snowed simple rocky East Ridge, traverse a 3-meter wall on the left to reach the «saw».