Nogkau
Nogkau (4020 m) is a solitary rocky tower rising not far from the end of the long North ridge — a spur of the Burjula peak.
Nogkau was conquered:
- On August 3, 1935 — by Poles Bernadzikiewicz, Wojnis, and Chwascinski;
- On August 19, 1937 — by A. Uvarov, M. Ivanov, V. Lebedev, and A. Mostinsky.
- Nogkau from the North-East (the route is combined, category 2A, Fig. 20, 30).
The path from the KSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (a group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac on the plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau under the Nogkau peak is described in route 83.
From the bivouac, approach the North ridge of the Nogkau peak across the snowy plateau (closed crevices) and slope. Overcoming the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the snowy, then the scree slope, and simple destroyed rocks to the North ridge to the right of the Nogkau rocky tower. Here, turn left and approach the summit tower via simple rocks of the North ridge. Bypass the tower on the right across simple rocks and ledges (with insurance). Then, ascend to the summit of Nogkau via heavily destroyed rocks of the steep inner corner — a couloir (with insurance).
From the initial bivouac:
- 2–3 hours
Descent follows the ascent path.
Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.
Fig. 30.