Oni­ani Peak

The peak (4200 m) is nam­ed in me­mory of the mountai­ne­er Kilij­bi Oni­ani, one of the first re­sear­chers of the area. Lo­ca­t­ed in the mid­d­le part of the Ts­ei Ridge be­tween the Artsy­shevsky peak to the south-west and the Zol­o­tar­ev peak to the north-east. The south­ern des­tr­oyed rocky edge of the Oni­ani peak tur­ns into a short spur, li­mi­ting to the east the cirque of the Wil­pa­tinsky gla­cier. The rocky plat­for­ms on the west side of the spur are nam­ed af­ter the mountai­ne­er Taisi­ya Vol­gi­na. To the Son­guti gla­cier from the peak des­cends a b­ro­ken ice-and-snow slope with ra­re rocky out­cro­ps, and to the south-east, to the Four gla­cier, to­wards the Ts­ei val­ley — des­tr­oyed rocky coun­ter­for­ts.

Fig. 37 182. Ronketti Main (4080 m) via the Western ridge (route is combined, B. Golubev, category III difficulty, Fig. 37). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier below the Tsey-Mamison pass is described in routes 83 and 179. From the bivouac, approach the middle of the Tsey-Mamison pass across the snowy plateau (closed crevasses), where a group of rocks is located. From the plateau, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge and ascend a steep 180-220-meter snow slope to the pass, to the group of rocks (avalanches possible, piton protection). On the pass, turn left and reach the rocks of the Western ridge of Ronketti Main, then:

• Ascend a snow slope or simple, crumbling rocks and ledges on the right side of the Western ridge, bypassing gendarmes via a traverse to the right, and approach the first southern snow couloir.
• Ascend a gentle snow couloir to a saddle behind the gendarmes of the Western ridge, before the rock ascent to the Western tower.
• From the saddle, ascend simple, crumbling rocks of the Western ridge with numerous handholds to the Western tower of Ronketti Main. From the Western tower, descend simple rocks with numerous handholds on the snowy Western ridge (cornice, loose rocks) to a saddle, and from it, ascend to the summit (Central tower) of Ronketti Main. The duration from the initial bivouac on the plateau is 4-5 hours.

Skatikom

Skatikom (4450 m) is located in the Saudorosky ridge between Vologata to the west and the small first gendarme of the North-Eastern ridge of the Songuti peak in the Tseysky ridge to the east. The Eastern and Western ridges of Skatikom enclose the Karaugom plateau from the north. Skatikom's northern slopes:

• are heavily snowy
• steep From the Karaugom plateau side:
• more gentle
• destroyed

95. Skatikom (4450 m) via the Western ridge, Category 3B difficulty (A. Kharlampiev and 4

119. SONGUTI-ULARG, TRAVERSE

(combined route) category III The path from the "Torpedo" camp goes along the trail along the Tsey-Don River to the Uilpata River, where it is necessary to turn upwards (to the right). By the stream flowing down the "sheep's foreheads" from the Uilpatinsky Glacier (C-3), the path turns towards this glacier, ascending to the right end of the glacier. When ascending, one should beware of rockfall. The glacier should be ascended in the middle, heading towards the overhanging wall of the icefall. The wall is the edge of the firn plateau that feeds the Uilpatinsky Glacier and the nameless glacier sliding down to the northern branch of the Tsey Glacier. Both these glaciers are divided by the eastern shoulder of Uilpata. From this icefall - the serac - one should bypass it from the left (in the direction of travel), ascending along the avalanche deposits, cross the bergschrund, and exit onto the scree, ascending along it to the ridge of the western end of the eastern shoulder of Uilpata. When ascending to the ridge, beware of rockfall. From the ridge of the eastern shoulder of Uilpata, cross over to the firn plateau and head in the direction of the Sonquti ridge, towards the 10-3 ridge. When ascending to the ridge, one should keep to the direction of the second (counting from Uilpata) "gendarme" along the firn and partly icy slope. Initially, overcome a small bergschrund and approach the rocks along the slope, ascending through the couloirs, and exit onto the 10-3 ridge of Sonquti. When ascending, it is necessary to beware of avalanches and rockfall. On the ridge near the "gendarme", a bivouac can be organized. Further, the path goes along the 10-3 ridge to the Sonquti summit. On the ridge, there are two more "gendarmes":

• the first is small and can be passed easily;

Fig. 30 — at the barob, SSKauuny, 15. The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or the village of Dzanaga (group of 420 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau, under the northern slopes of Uvarov peak, is described in route 83. From the initial bivouac (closed crevasses) along the snowy plateau approach the northern slope of Uvarov peak. From the plateau, along the snowy slope reach the bergschrund and, overcoming it along a snow bridge - Along the snowy, almost horizontal ridge of the shoulder (cornices), then along the sharp steep snowy ridge (cornices - insurance) exit to the third shoulder. From here along the gently sloping, wide, местами острому (кар­ни­зы), then along the steep left-snowy Northern

Fig. 26 110. Uilpata (4668 m) via the North ridge-slope (route is ice-snow, V. Naumenko, category 4A, Fig. 26). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac at Vorobyovskie nochevki:

• via Uilpatinsky glacier — described in route 99;
• via South and North branches of the Tsey glacier — described in routes 83 and 108. From Vorobyovskie nochevki, turn right (when ascending from the Uilpatinsky glacier) and along Vorobyev glacier, left of the ice falls descending to the Uilpatinsky glacier, approach a steep snow slope with several rocky buttresses. The slope descends from the Songuti pass, connecting the peaks of Songuti on the right and Uilpata on the left. From the glacier, pass through the snow bridge of the bergschrund. Further:
• pass on the left side of the steep, third couloir from Uilpata (possible rockfall);
• ascend simple and moderately difficult, heavily damaged rocks of the steep counterfort (pitched rope);

UILPATA

Уилпата, 2-й к.с. По северо-западному контрфорсу Южного гребня, 55

From the Vilpata bivouacs (departure at 3:00–4:00 at night due to rockfall in the couloir) across the snowy plateau of the North Branch:

• Go around a long ridge descending to the North Branch to the right of the counterforts of the Vilpata South Ridge on the left.
• Turn right and ascend along a gentle snowy slope of a wide couloir between the bases of the counterforts of the South Ridge on the left and the long ridge on the right.
• Having passed the base of the Second counterfort of the South Ridge, turn left and approach the right side of a narrow snowy couloir between the Second and

I35. Ularg via the Northwest Counterfort

(combined route, 5A category of difficulty) The path from the base camp on the Songuti River or from the Ceysky district KSP to the initial bivouac on the rocky ledges under the North wall of Ularg peak. From the ledges, along the snowy slope of the glacier (closed crevasses), approach the left side of the Northwest counterfort of Ularg peak. From the glacier, crossing the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the 80-meter ice-and-snow slope to the rocks on the left side of the Northwest counterfort, 40 m to the left and above its rocky base. Along smooth slabs with a limited number of holds, steep, partially icy rocks of medium difficulty with a 10-meter wall of above-average difficulty above, then along heavily broken simple and medium-difficulty shelves and rocks — "live" stones 60–80 m up and to the right along the left side of the Northwest counterfort. Then traverse 40 m to the right, bypassing the "reddish" gendarme, to the right side of the Northwest counterfort. Along steep rocks of above-average difficulty on the right side of the counterfort, ascend 40 m to a narrow couloir. Up the difficult rocks of the vertical narrow couloir 80 m to a scree shelf on its right side. — The key point of the route, possible rockfalls, falling ice fragments — Along a snowy, scree-sloping shelf 40 m up and to the right. From the end of the shelf, ascend along difficult rocks with a small number of holds, a 60–70-meter wall with a shelf in the middle part. Further:

• along rocks of medium difficulty,
• then along the boundary of ice and rocks, exit to an inclined shelf crossing the Northwest counterfort.

117. Kayarta —

(combined route, category II, fig. 5, 13). The path from Tyrnyauz (group of 4–20 people) to the Western Kayarta stream is described in route 106. Having crossed the stream, turn left and ascend a steep rocky slope on the right bank of the stream to its upper cirque above two waterfalls. Then:

• ascend along the right bank,
• then cross to the left bank,
• move along the left bank to the Western Kayarta glacier. On the left side of the glacier (closed crevasses), bypass the icefall. Above it, cross the glacier to the right and approach the left slope of the Western ridge of Kayarta peak. From the glacier, having passed the bergschrund, ascend to the Western ridge of Kayarta. From here, along a gently sloping wide snow-ice slope on the left side of the 450–500-meter Western ridge with a 20-meter ascent in the upper part, reach the summit of Kayarta. From the Tyutyusu gorge — 4–5 hours.